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    #11
    Senior Member abreu-canedo's Avatar
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    Litemat 4 is pretty stellar. Great for small spaces and quick rigging, as well as for moving from wides to CUs and quickly shaping your CUs. Works great as an overhead source, easy to control spill, and works with Lumen Radio so it can be controlled wirelessly from a tablet, when necessary. The Litemat 4 is 200w.

    I would also pick up two 4' and/or 2' Quasar or Voyager (when they are finally released), since tubes are super handy. I generally prefer the tubes as quasi-practicals, so throwing a light on a wall seen in the frame when you need a splash of light, but you don't have space to hide it off frame. I know lots of people use tubes as key as well, to great effect, but that is not generally how I've used them. Perhaps just a lack of creativity on my part, but for lightweight keying, I always just pick up the Litemat. I think the Quasar tubes are 50w each (I think).

    All that said, I usually try not to go all LED, when possible. Maybe it's more theoretically beneficial than practically beneficial, but I try to bring in some black body sources just to fill in any spectrum gaps present even in the best LEDs. For example, I had a shoot recently where I used a Hive 1K Par (Plasma) fixture as a sun through the window, a Skypanel as the soft directional fill from the same side as the windows, and a tungsten 500w kicker (in addition to incandescent string lights. Sorry if this is off-topic...just thought I'd throw it out there. That being said, I haven't done any scientific testing, and my opinion is probably fueled by speculation and perceptions that may not be void of a romanticism around black body sources ;)

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    #12
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    So I am in the market for lights and had my heart set on the LITEMAT 3. However someone is selling two kino flos for half the price of one litemat. I realize in terms of weight the LITEMAT wins hands down, but just in terms of quality of light is there a major difference in quality of light?


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    #13
    Senior Member Run&Gun's Avatar
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    You didn't say which Kino's. If they're Diva's and your priority is skin tones, and it should be, then NO. I have a nice set of Diva 400's and Barfly's that I bought maybe close to a decade ago and they have been retired for probably two years and I have no plans of ever using them on a shoot of mine again. Real Tungsten and Real Daylight(the Sun) are still the BEST light sources, but I'll take quality LED's over Kinflo's any day of the week and twice on Sunday. Out of my last five shoots, I've lit with Litemats, Litepanels(Astras and Gemini), Quasar X-fade tubes and some Hive 100C's. Oh yeah, and our LD on one of them was using some Westcott Ice Lights just to bring-up faces/people(run & gun production).

    But depending on which Litemat 3 you're talking about, that's a hard deal to ignore, if you're needing lights and on a budget.


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    #14
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    I am talking about kinos 4x4. In regards to the Litemat it would be the s2 Litemat 3


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    #15
    Senior Member Run&Gun's Avatar
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    The larger tubed Kino's, like a 4' 4-bank arguably perform better than the smaller tubed Diva's and Barfly's. Something to do with the size(diameter) of the tubes and the phosphor coating inside. I had it explained to me one day by some of the guys at Barbizon. If they'd still be useful to you, that may be hard to pass up. What are they asking, about $900 or so for the pair? I think the s2 LM3 is between $1800-$1900. But personally, for me, I'm done with fluorescent fixtures.


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    #16
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    950 for a pair of 4x4. And I am debating buying a Litemat s2 3 from a guy for 1400


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    #17
    Senior Member abreu-canedo's Avatar
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    I personally skipped the florescent era. I always felt it was not much harder to punch tungsten or HMIs through a 4x4 frame of diffusion.

    I'd definitely go with the Litemat over Kino's. The new Kino Select (LED) units are pretty nice, but I'm assuming this is not what you're talking about.

    The Litemat 3 is nice. I'd recommend a Litemat 4, if you can afford it or find a good deal, just because it's larger, and the units aren't super bright. They can still punch through diffusion, but you know, the less you need to put in front of the Litemats, the better...in my opinion. The Litemat 2L is also interesting.

    Overall, the Litemats are lighter, more durable in the sense that you don't have fragile florescent bulbs, more adjustability with bi-color and dimming, and (I believe) better light quality.


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    #18
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    Thanks for the advice guys


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