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    Questions about using a Gimbal and not having a remote to control iris and focus
    #1
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    I am looking into purchasing one of these for my pro video camcorder https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produ...tabilizer.html

    Issue is the camera I have which is a canon xa25 doesn't support a remote that controls the exposure. I have asked BH Photo and they said the only remote for the camera I have controls the zoom and focus. Any idea how to control the exposure? Is automatic good enough? Lets say I'm using the gimbal outside and it gets bright. Will the sky be overexposed if set to auto exposure?

    I talked to B&H Photo and they told me you can't touch the camera while it's in the gimbal. I also asked them and no new camcorders have a wireless remote that control exposure or focus either. What do I do? I've shot weddings etc before without one and needed to adjust the focus and exposure on the fly as the sun changed some while bride and groom were walking etc.

    If I can't touch the camera am I not going to be able to use a Gimbal?

    I was also looking into this camera to buy https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produ...camcorder.html

    and B&H told me it would not fit inside the gimbal I'm looking to purchase. I need something that allows a Gimbal and brackets to mount field monitors etc


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    curious as well since ive been looking at these new smaller gimbals for use with my c100...so far theyve all “doesnt really work” reviews...have ro remove the grip, and for many some piece of the cam gets caught the gimbal hardware upon more extreme rotations.

    Seems like me you’d have to manually focus and iris, THEN get your shot. Huge pain and maybe not feasible for fast moving events like weddings. Shooting broll in an office where the light doesnt change? Maybe feasible.


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    Quote Originally Posted by Josh Bass View Post
    curious as well since ive been looking at these new smaller gimbals for use with my c100...so far theyve all “doesnt really work” reviews...have ro remove the grip, and for many some piece of the cam gets caught the gimbal hardware upon more extreme rotations.

    Seems like me you’d have to manually focus and iris, THEN get your shot. Huge pain and maybe not feasible for fast moving events like weddings. Shooting broll in an office where the light doesnt change? Maybe feasible.

    I'm sorry you are having a similar experience but glad I'm not the only one running into this issue. Yes I agree it seems a Gimbal is for preset shots.


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    Member geani66's Avatar
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    For my a6500 on a gimbal I use autofocus (with 18-105mm)and auto ISO.
    Aperture and shutter fixed before flying the gimbal.
    No problems at all .


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    Probably ok for some shots but depending on what you're shooting those auto settings could change drastically moment to moment in a very unpleasant way, no (bright something or other in frame one second, gone next)?


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    Senior Member Chris Santucci's Avatar
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    Set your exposure manually before turning the gimbal on.

    Use a wide enough lens focal length to get hyperfocal range (or close enough).

    I shot a tourism piece for 4 days using this method.


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    Senior Member paulears's Avatar
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    I think you're blaming the gimbal for things out of it's control. If you have a camera on automatic, then it is a compromise. If the sun comes out, or goes behind clouds then after a short lag, it adjusts. if you are on manual, then YOU notice and adjust. If you had a remote that let you zoom, focus and adjust the aperture, then that would be a very complex remote to use one handed? Also it means you have to be looking at the camera display screen, which when you use a gimbal is always difficult, or even impossible when you are holding it high or at arms length. You normally frame on a wider than normal angle so you can correct the poor aiming in the edit. I'm not sure I could accurately adjust the exposure at a distance? I don't think you really need to worry. I'd suggest the benefit from the device outweighs the disadvantage of losing manual control. Gimbals and zooming in never work for me anyway - they always lag. If your gimbal is a sophisticated one with a joystick, then to do what you suggest means a wireless monitor, and two remotes, and probably needing you to grow and extra arm or at least have an assistant. Gimbals give smooth movement and most folk just preset and hope, or engage auto and hope.


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    the Crane 2 and the newer Crane 3 will allow (with certain cameras) the option to control exposure. i see sometimes an attachment on the lens which I guess is either focusing or zooming. in general with the Crane and DJI Ronin's they don't have full functionality with sony mirrorless cameras. not their fault but sony's. they works with more canon and lots of panasonic cameras. as far as your canon camcorder or any camcorder for that matter i don't know as it might not work at all.

    for me personally i don't think its a huge deal to be able to zoom when on a gimbal or steadicam but rather just move closer or farther away. there are times though that i want to shoot @ 70mm for instance vs 24mm for the compression and more cinematic vibe. when i used to do steadicam i had an EX1 where i had a remote with a zoom toggle that i would run conveniently to where my right hand was. i would use it because i had it. i can't say i miss it much though on my Crane 2 or Ronin S.

    exposure can be an issue if changing but honestly going from an inside to sunny outside is far more than a small adjustment. i agree with above poster that AUTO is a good all around choice but when you shoot subject with the sun behind them then your screwed. +2EV at least but getting there is problematic. consider this and plan a route if possible to avoid issues like this if you have this option.

    if you've never used a gimbal id suggest that the handlebar type get tough to hold out in front of you for any period of time even if your load is not extreme. on my original Ronin i use the EasyRig. otherwise its brutal. with the support you can hold for a long time.

    the cool thing about the single handle gimbals is that you can hold it closer to your chest sparing your arms from being so far extended. another thing on the handlebar gimbals is to get up near head level you almost need to turn it upside down (invert) to get the camera up at neck or face level or hold the gimbal up above you head but without support will beat you up pretty quick and only worse if you start adding monitors, mics etc.

    the Ronin S is heavy. 1.6lbs more than the Crane 2. when i put my 1DXmkII on the Ronin S it can get tiring if i hold it forward in "flashlight mode" for low shooting but tolerable in an upright position. the Crane 2 much easier. my 1DXmkII has very limited tilt up and down on the Crane 2 as it hits the back motor and you can't get dynamic balance unless you get the extended camera bracket to lower the camera a bit. otherwise prior to that id put lead weights below the camera to get it to balance. you linked to that massive XF camcorder which would be hard in general if at all to mount on any of these things.

    something to consider since you seem open to getting another camera altogether...you could use a mobile device to control things like aperture, SS, ISO etc on most dslr's or mirrorless cameras. when i use my Ronin on the EasyRig i rig a small iPod Touch to side right above my right index finger. here i can start and stop and if needed i can change other things if necessary. since I'm on the EasyRig my arms don't have to man handle the Ronin at all so being able to gracefully tap the Touch is not a problem. holding the gimbal up can be done with my 2 pinky's if i wanted to. if your carrying the full weight it will be everything you can do to just hold it let alone start making changes. also if your going to go low and high there isn't really one workable angle to the monitor attached like the camera flip out screen. you need it aiming up for your low angle and need it aiming down for high angles. its a host of compromises in the end.

    on the sony mirrorless you can "register" faces. you can register the brides face in advance then when you start shooting it will find her face and your face detection AF will always go there. can be tricky in lower light where all bets may be off though. i have the A7III which has really good AF in video. i also have my 1DXmkII which is also great for AF in video. both with face detection. the opportunity to shoot some of your shots @ 1.8 -2.8 is pretty sweet while knowing the AF is pretty damn good. still ill go back to my EX1 and if i was wide to just moderately zoomed in it was mostly "just in focus" since it had smaller camcorder sensor with much deeper DOF.

    like everything. its balancing the pro and cons of a situation. rarely is anything perfect but a gimbal in general is great for a fast moving run and gun like weddings are.

    good luck!
    david
    Last edited by david_p; 11-06-2018 at 11:18 AM.


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