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    #11
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    Sorry, I'm not following your notes. I'm not using the main outputs. I'm using the sub out.

    "Bias current is not applied to the ring terminal on a G2/3/4, so a DC blocking cap is not necessary." I'm seeing 9v on both tip and ring to sleeve, which seems odd. I would have thought I'd see voltage on only one conductor as you said.
    "The plug's tip terminal normally carries the voltage, but that is grounded, so it's a non-issue when it's wired for line. " I thought tip is left channel, ring is right channel, and sleeve is ground.

    Mono of the left or right channel would be ok, since I am using this for the boom operator to monitor.


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    #12
    Senior Member Rick R's Avatar
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    I'm seeing 9v on both tip and ring to sleeve, which seems odd. I would have thought I'd see voltage on only one conductor as you said.
    - I assumed this as well, so I just checked a G3 SK 100 Tx and the tip does measure 9V (unloaded) but I get no voltage on the ring terminal. I used an off-the-shelf 3.5 TRS to 3.5 TRS to test. If you used a cable with the tip and ring tied together, then both ring and tip would show voltage.

    Otherwise, the Remote Audio CASDT3/3.5 may NOT work after all if it's designed for the Sound Devices 'Tape out' TA3 connection, which is unbalanced left and right. The L&R F series Zoom TA3 connectors are balanced, so using one of those would probably result in no sound at all to the Tx, since the TA3 pins 2&3 are 180 degrees out-of-phase.
    You may need to make a custom cable... or have one made.

    BTW, the right-angle 3.5 TRS to locking 3.5 TRS (CL-1) cable that comes the G2/3/4 portable system, the right angle plug's Ring and Tip connections are tied together to sum both L&R channels. The ring is floated (not connected) on the locking plug end. If the bias current will not damage the Zoom, you could use above locking CL1 'line output cable' to feed the G3 mic level, that would sum the Zoom's sub-out L&R channels.
    Last edited by Rick R; 09-14-2018 at 11:14 AM.


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    #13
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    "BTW, the right-angle 3.5 TRS to locking 3.5 TRS (CL-1) cable that comes the G2/3/4 portable system, the right angle plug's Ring and Tip connections are tied together to sum both L&R channels. "

    Ahh. That explains why I'm seeing 9v on both pins. I used that cable to read the voltage on the pins. I've never had a need to use that cable. Ok, I have to believe that cable is provided for exactly what I am wanting to do. I'm still a little dodgy about hooking it up. I'll do more reading. Thanks Rick.


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    #14
    Senior Member Rick R's Avatar
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    Your welcome Paul, the CL-1 was included as an output cable to feed a cam or recorder with a stereo 3.5mm input jack. It would work for input though. The question is: would the bias voltage harm the Zoom?
    Personally, I would just get out the soldering gear and build a 3.5mm to 3.5mm locking line level cable, but that's easy for me to say as an experienced cable builder.


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    #15
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    The cables I build tend not to be very robust when dealing with 3.5mm. Adding blocking caps would make it even more crappy and unreliable. I was hoping Remote Audio made something nice so I don't have to make a turd. But no. So I will make some crappy cables.

    I did find what I needed in a 2013 post on a sound forum. Blocking caps are recommended.
    Last edited by Paul F; 09-14-2018 at 03:10 PM.


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    #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul F View Post
    I was hoping Remote Audio made something nice so I don't have to make a turd. But no. So I will make some crappy cables.
    Have you called them? They do take custom orders, depending on what it is. Worth a call, anyway.
    Nobody notices audio... until it's not there.

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    #17
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    I've been exchanging emails with them.


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    #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul F View Post
    The cables I build tend not to be very robust when dealing with 3.5mm. Adding blocking caps would make it even more crappy and unreliable. I was hoping Remote Audio made something nice so I don't have to make a turd. But no. So I will make some crappy cables.

    I did find what I needed in a 2013 post on a sound forum. Blocking caps are recommended.
    Was this a discussion on jwsoundgroup, or elsewhere? Would you mind linking to it please for reference for others who might be looking at this later
    Am a Sound Recordist in New Zealand: http://ironfilm.co.nz/sound/
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    #19
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    Actually, it was Rick R who in the referenced thread, recommends the blocking cap. http://jwsoundgroup.net/index.php?/t...r-plug-wiring/

    Also, this discussion calls out a value for the capacitor by John Willett who used to work for Sennheiser - 1uf tantalum bead cap. http://www.dvinfo.net/forum/all-thin...nfusion-2.html


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