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    Shooting sport video[50p 1/250] in low light
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    So yeah, I'm shooting a sport video for a local self defense club, since it's a fast paced action video I need to shoot in 50p (for slow mo in post) and of course at least 1/250 shutter speed to get rid of smear/blur.
    But the problem is, during the day it's ok thanks to large windows, and when it gets dark i have to crank the iso up till 3200, so I could still use 1/250 or 1/180.
    During the shooting it looked good on LCD, but when I took it home and played it back on PC.. oh god.. the picture looks dirty and softish.. :\

    P.S. I'm editing UHD footage in 1080 sequence, for crop/punch in purpose. Hope that does not affect the video?

    Here's an example, - https://yadi.sk/i/By0snkY53Ng5d9

    P.S. ignore the black spot, it's just to cover the club's logo.


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    Just my 2 cents...

    - Professional pieces would be shot in 25p and 50p would be used when necessary (overcranking).

    - If you're indoors and would like better low-light performance, why don't you go lower on the shutter speed (and as a result lower on the ISO).

    Maybe 1/100? Do you see a massive difference in motion blur vs. 1/250? (People will notice noise before motion blur.)

    - My opinion for the best quality: Shoot in 4K / Edit in 4K. Period.


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    Senior Member Cary Knoop's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nicklas View Post
    So yeah, I'm shooting a sport video for a local self defense club, since it's a fast paced action video I need to shoot in 50p (for slow mo in post) and of course at least 1/250 shutter speed to get rid of smear/blur.
    But the problem is, during the day it's ok thanks to large windows, and when it gets dark i have to crank the iso up till 3200, so I could still use 1/250 or 1/180.
    During the shooting it looked good on LCD, but when I took it home and played it back on PC.. oh god.. the picture looks dirty and softish.. :\
    The problem is not a bad picture quality, the problem is not using lights when it is called for!

    LED's are cheap and safe and give a decent light quality, alternatively you can rent lights for a few days to make the video.
    Last edited by Cary Knoop; 10-11-2017 at 03:57 PM.


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    Thanks for the advises everyone!
    I will use 25p with 1/50 next time. As for the lights, the place isn't spacious enough to put it + filming with lots of kids doing karate stuff such as kicks, etc. is a bit dangerous for light stands


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    You could still use 60p for some slow-motion when you need it.


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    Senior Member Cary Knoop's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nicklas View Post
    Thanks for the advises everyone!
    I will use 25p with 1/50 next time. As for the lights, the place isn't spacious enough to put it + filming with lots of kids doing karate stuff such as kicks, etc. is a bit dangerous for light stands
    You can't put the light behind a person who watches the event? Or at least put one on your camera!

    I am sorry but I am very skeptical about arguments for not being able to use light in general, I think most often people just don't want to bother while at the same time they expect great footage. Without good light you can't have a good looking video not even with a million dollar low light camera. Light makes or breaks the image!


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    X2 on the lights. You can also try out the "High Sense" mode, but with discretion. It doubles the set ISO and also supposedly ups the noise reduction. I've used it as called for on some night scenes and it works OK but seldom would I push it in high sense past around 3000 (1500 "normal") ISO. Instead of grain, you could get noise reduction softness or artifacts. Best to use more light if you can.


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    As already stated, LIGHTS! Also mentioned only shoot at 50p if you need slow mo. Don't do it on all your shots. And why are you shooting in UHD? That shoot does not appear to justify the need for that level of quality, and there are more camera functions that work at HD. It is hard to judge by one frame but the shot looked cluttered and not well composed. Light properly and control the shooting and focus on a few students at a time. Have a story, shot list, etc. The DVX is not a low light camera so don't try to make it fit a role it is not intended to do. Even low light cameras will not get the best of images unless you paint with the light. The DVX has some great exposure tools, start using them and do not rely on the LCD. It will fool you every time.


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    Hello - Regretfully, you have everything working against yourself to include your position, but I have an easy solution.

    What’s really killing you is the fact you are too close and the subjects and they are always changing distance. In a low light situation like yours, you’ll never focus anyone because they always moving. It would be tough to focus a subject even if they were seated in one position in that low light.

    If that were my job, I would first perch myself in a corner as far away from the action as possible to broaden your focus distance. Don't move because all you'll do is compound your problems. Pick a pair of guys and follow just them. Next, set your shot for the next pair and re-focus. As they move further or closer than your focus distance end the shot. By moving further from the action it will give you a bit more depth of field in focus. Don't use your zoom - it will make it worse!

    Secondly, shoot everything in 4K this will allow you stay out of the action then you can punch in at post to give you an A/B camera look. This will help you get the shot you want without you interfering with the subjects.

    Thirdly, Call B&H and for around $100 you can buy this wonderful Duracast multi-temperature LED light which mounts to your hotshot or on your handle. This light is bright! I also have a larger floor set of these which which also run on batteries. No cords or plugs to look for. These lamps are life savers I uses them 24/7 on jobs both outdoors when shooting a model with back lighting and indoors. Infinite brightness control and temperature. There is two sets of less at different temperatures and you have a separate control for each so you can match any temperature. I use this on my GH5 as well, and also use the 2 lamps on moving shots with a helper holding the second light off to the right or left.

    This set for $100 comes with two batteries that last for hours and a wall charger. Making it even better, my Atomos Inferno Anton Bauer batteries fits this light and one large battery runs it all day. I included an image with the brightness all the way down to show the multi color led's.

    The DVX is a wonderful camera but it likes light!

    Enjoy - Mike











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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Mas View Post
    [SIZE=3]Hello - Regretfully, you have everything working against yourself to include your position, but I have an easy solution.

    What’s really killing you is the fact you are too close and the subjects and they are always changing distance. In a low light situation like yours, you’ll never focus anyone because they always moving. It would be tough to focus a subject even if they were seated in one position in that low light.

    If that were my job, I would first perch myself in a corner as far away from the action as possible to broaden your focus distance. Don't move because all you'll do is compound your problems. Pick a pair of guys and follow just them. Next, set your shot for the next pair and re-focus. As they move further or closer than your focus distance end the shot. By moving further from the action it will give you a bit more depth of field in focus. Don't use your zoom - it will make it worse!

    Secondly, shoot everything in 4K this will allow you stay out of the action then you can punch in at post to give you an A/B camera look. This will help you get the shot you want without you interfering with the subjects.

    Thirdly, Call B&H and for around $100 you can buy this wonderful Duracast multi-temperature LED light which mounts to your hotshot or on your handle. This light is bright! I also have a larger floor set of these which which also run on batteries. No cords or plugs to look for. These lamps are life savers I uses them 24/7 on jobs both outdoors when shooting a model with back lighting and indoors. Infinite brightness control and temperature. There is two sets of less at different temperatures and you have a separate control for each so you can match any temperature. I use this on my GH5 as well, and also use the 2 lamps on moving shots with a helper holding the second light off to the right or left.

    This set for $100 comes with two batteries that last for hours and a wall charger. Making it even better, my Atomos Inferno Anton Bauer batteries fits this light and one large battery runs it all day. I included an image with the brightness all the way down to show the multi color led's.

    The DVX is a wonderful camera but it likes light!

    Enjoy - Mike
    ]
    Don't agree. Unless the shoot is just to make a historical recording, then you are right. If the shooter is trying to get a quality piece, he should be close to the subjects. I teach martial arts and there is not as much movement of the body unless they are sparing. The center mass does not move that much. So focus should not be an issue. You can get close and shoot wide, and use light. Also do not agree with shooting in 4k with the sole intention of cropping of zooming in during editing. Also do not like the cheap camera mounted lights, they are only for a last resort when you must get a shot. In this instance the action should be choreographed and the lighting established to create the highest quality exposure and effect. As stated, I have owned MA schools and still teach private lessons. Through the years I have shot MA classes, and never had issues, even using cheaper cameras. Setting up the shots and lighting properly is key.


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