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    #51
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    You can also explain the flare off these filters becomes a high light, and double your day rate..


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    #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by Donny 123 View Post
    That's using the BMCC which suffers terribly from IR contamination. I used it once in the Middle East, (it was the agency's camera). The Mid-East must be the worst place on Earth to use a BMCC. But, who knows whether they are a good choice for the FS7, as I said earlier, what works with one combination of camera and lens, might not work with another.
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    #53
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    Yes I think he chose that camera as "its about as bad as it gets" and so anything else must be better .. sort of plan..


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    #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ben Scott View Post
    Nisi if you want good and inexpensive... I have a mix of firecrest (screw in) and Nisi (4x5.65) at the mo and get good results.
    Hey Ben, I am looking at either the Nisi or Firecrest now and it seems like you you two in combination, correct? Do you have a preference between the two? When looking at a Nisi kits it appears that they are IR ND filters - does that matter either way with FS7? I apologize for what may be stupid questions; I am just beginning to start using external filters and want to start a solid kit.


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    #55
    Senior Member Ben Scott's Avatar
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    Not really using them in combination but rather I will use either depending on if it is a mattebox job or a go super light job.


    Right now the names of all these things are completely silly and what was an IRND 3 years ago is not what is being called an IRND now. It seems to be a shorthand now for 'no strong colour cast'.

    Nisi are simply cheaper for 4x5.65". I'd be using the RHOdiums or similar if I could justify the outlay. Firecrests in this size are bonded and so will last longer than the Nisis but the Nisis are a genuine solid choice being used by a ton of people who can afford more.

    Screw-in Firecrests seem to constantly be on sale on Amazon and i built an 82mm kit very inexpensively.
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    #56
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    OK great. I always appreciate actual firsthand experience when I'm comparing "unknowns" - sometimes the specs don't tell the whole story. Thank you.


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    #57
    Senior Member David W. Jones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CharlesPapert View Post
    My go-to IRND's for the past few years have been the Mitomo True ND's, which for a long time were the only ones that maintained consistent color temperature across the range
    These are pretty darn nice, and I have been Jonesing for a set.

    I ordered a couple more low cost Skier filters to give me a .3 .6 .9 1.2 set in 4 x 5.65. To date I have been pleased with the .6 and .9 I have been using.

    I'll let you know how well the .3 and 1.2 match once they arrive.
    Last edited by David W. Jones; 07-21-2017 at 11:27 AM.


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    #58
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    Quick follow-up question: when looking at a graduated filter what is the general consensus here as to what the best strength to start with? 2-stop? 3-stop? I know there are various situations that would call for more or less but I'm looking for a good starting point since I won't be able to purchase a full range of graduated filters to begin with. Thanks for your input!


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    #59
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    I recently ended up going with firecrest for 4x4's and am very happy with their neutrality. I had available an inexpensive older se of tiffen's and they just didn't cut it.
    I've been using B+W s for 82mm screw ins forever and was reasonably happy until I looked at them carefully recently and my N6 didn't match the N3 & N9 at all - much warmer. So I tried another B+W and a Heliopan. I've always thought of B+W and Heliopan as top brands but they were all very similar - too warm. So I bought a Firecrest and its fine. Now I have to decide if I want to buy a 4x5.6 soft grad from Firecrest or just live with my Tiffens which are not all the same - again the N6 is the bad one though I assume that's just coincidence.


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    #60
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    If its a soft grad I would go with an N6 first then an N9 . N3 is often too light to be do much on a soft grad . On a hard grad - very useful for long lenses then I'd probably go with a 6 first then a an N3 and and N9 last though all are valuable.


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