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    F35 Beginners: How do I power it?
    #1
    Senior Member JMtheDP's Avatar
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    Hello all,

    I am distilling information gleaned from my own experiences and those of others into some beginners threads. Hopefully anyone else getting in on the F35 bandwagon will not have to trawl through the beastly 180+page post that most of us have been living in.

    Anyway, the first post is on the subject of power, which if you're used to cameras with built-in batteries will seem like a bit of a headscratcher.

    The first and most important thing to remember is that the F35 was designed to replace full-size 35mm cameras so usually the solutions for those will apply (not literally, don't hook up an ARRI battery!)

    35mm cameras are used to having a block battery to power them. The power input on the side of the camera is a LEMO 8-pin power socket and is designed to take BOTH 12v and 24v power. The 12v bit powers the camera and any 12v accessories, the 24v bit will be passed through to power any 24v accessories.

    The original official battery for the camera was the ANTON BAUER CINE VCLX-CA. It provides both 12v and 24v and is designed for this camera. It also works with the F23, F65 and Panavision Genesis. However, they are sodding expensive and a lot of people don't like carrying a block around. HAWKWOODS in the UK also make a block with the appropriate power output. It is roughly 1300 plus VAT for a 680wh unit. Fairly good value compared with some V-Locks (eg. a 130wh IDX is 400).

    The official method of powering the camera from an ONBOARD battery is to put a battery adapter plate on the back of the INTERFACE BOX and plug into the XLR input on the bottom of the interface box. This will only work if the interface box is on the camera's rear mount. It will not provide power if on the top mount. It will also not power accessories.

    Please be warned that the camera draws 58w on its own, so with a finder you're looking at nearly 70w. You will need good, strong batteries.

    There are people who can make battery plates with LEMO cables on them so you can bypass the interface box. Another good method is to use a battery belt to power the camera, keeping weight off the shoulder for handheld.
    James Martin, UK-based DoP
    www.jamesmartindop.com
    Sony F65, ARRI/Zeiss Master Primes, ARRI Alura Zooms
    Formerly: F900, F35, Zeiss Standard Speeds, Illumina S35s...


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    Senior Member mlysbakken's Avatar
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    Sony sells a battery plate which fits perfectly on the back of the IF box. Personally I use that and some cheap chinese v-lock batteries with separate p-taps. Works a charm. The bad thing about the setup is that it adds weight to an already heavy camera, so the "battery belt"-solution is better for your back. It does help balance the camera on your shoulder, though.


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    In addition one can AC power the camera via an AC adapter. Something like this unit, but Sony also makes one that is quite a bit more expensive (though probably significantly more trustworthy as well).

    This works well if you're in a studio situation or on location someplace where you have access to power outlets. Just be sure you secure & properly mark your stingers (extension cords in layman terms) or you run the risk of somebody tripping over the cord and toppling your camera to the floor.


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    Senior Member mlysbakken's Avatar
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    I have the Sony AC adapter. It's quite big (the one I got, at least), as it also has the possibility of passing through image and sound. You can't mount it on the camera, but you can place it on the ground next to it.


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    Abel has the 8 pin lemo plates to Anton Bauer gold mount at a good price. I would recommend this over the interface box because it allows to you avoid this part altogether if you want, and also the side aux ports that offer 12v power will not work without the camera being powered by the 8 pin.


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    AbelCine also has the Universal Juicebox AC power supply, which I helped design and is built exclusively for them by Frezzi. It can power, well, EVERYTHING. It has 600w of available power, 300w each of 24v and 12v (actually 28.8v & 14.4v). It also has 2x XLR-3 for 24v, 3x XLR-4 for 12v and one Lemo-8 to feed directly to cameras such as the F35. The beast was originally designed to handle complete 3D rigs for Phantom 65, F65, ALEXA and other hugely power hungry cameras and their accessories. It may seem overkill but it is actualy the best deal for a power supply with a built in Lemo-8 connector. This is useful because if yu ever need to rent or otherwise use block batteries they will use the same cable.
    Mitch Gross
    NYC


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    Senior Member mlysbakken's Avatar
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    I'm thinking of starting to utilize the battery's d-tap output for powering the hyperdeck and a monitor. Do you know the power draw of the camera?
    Last edited by mlysbakken; 02-07-2014 at 10:12 AM.


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    Senior Member JMtheDP's Avatar
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    The camera BODY draws 58w. Any viewfinder etc... you have to add to that figure.

    I would be very careful about powering a lot from one battery, unless it is specifically designed for high draw.
    James Martin, UK-based DoP
    www.jamesmartindop.com
    Sony F65, ARRI/Zeiss Master Primes, ARRI Alura Zooms
    Formerly: F900, F35, Zeiss Standard Speeds, Illumina S35s...


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    Senior Member mlysbakken's Avatar
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    I'm using a 10.2 Ah battery. Calculated that in theory the cam + monitor + hyperdeck would draw around 7 Ah. Do you think that's risky?


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    You also have to worry about placing too much draw through a single set of wires. There is little advantage to ganging the power to a bunch of devices once you hit the 70Watt range in my view. The Anton Bauer HCX batteries will not service much more amp hours than a DIONIC, so you are just as well to split up where the power is coming from for various devices on a high draw camera like the F35.

    I've seen wiring looms cooked in steadicam sleds from running too much through them. Not worth the risk in my view.


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