Settings for outdoor shooting for DVD

[djp321]

Hi,

I'm quite new to this forum as this is my first real post.
I've been reading the forum a little since i got my ac130 cam not long ago.

I just ordered the Barry Green book, and i already bought and viewed the video intro to the 130/160 using the discount code from this site.
Obviously no one is posting the barry green scene file settings anywhere, and it's a pain to buy it in europe (trust me, i just did), and the book doesnt come with the cam as i can read it does in the US.
So i haven't been able to test any of them - again, obviously.

Anyway - Short background to my questions, as i'm new to HD:
I'll be shooting footage outdoors in various light conditions for a dvd movie.
Meaning - The end media is a dvd. Not web, not blueray etc.

Type of shots:
- large scale scenery of mountains / valleys etc.
- Closeup on moving objects on the water surface from a 10-25 meter distance, which i will also need to do slow-mo effects with in post.
- Interviews of people both inside and outside(with large scenery as background)

And now to the questions:
- Are there any of the default scene files that would be of really good use for this type of project?
- Would the scenefiles from The Barry Green book be of better use for this type of project?
- Someone told me that i should always shoot in progressive, and not interlaced, when its for a dvd - Correct?
- If Progressive is the way to go, and it's for a DVD, and i need slowmo effects too, would it be better to shoot everything in 720/50p instead of 1080/25p ?
- Would it be better to mix the types depending on the scenes and whatever effects are needed in post?
- Should i stop write these questions and just wait for the Barry Green book to arrive? :-)



And completely off-topic:
To be honest i bought the 130 as i was told that the firmware upgrade regarding 1080/50p would apply for the ac130 too.
A week after i bought the ac130, it was announced that it would only be for the 160 version - Argh!!
Anyone thinks(or knows) that the 1080/50p will be included in a future firmware update for the ac130 ?

I hope someone will take the time to answer maybe just some of my questions :-)


Thanks in advance,

Best regards,
Dennis J. P.
Denmark

[Nate Haustein]

Congratulations on your new camera and welcome to the forum. I'll try to answer a few questions below:

When deciding on the frame rate to shoot at, you need to think about what you want the finished piece to look like motion-wise. 25p looks very different than 50p. Personally I like the more "filmic" rates of 24/25, but the higher 50/60p can look really cool in the right application like for sports or reality shows. It sounds like in your case, 25p might be more appropriate for a traditional documentary you're describing? You can always shoot 720p50 for the parts you want in slow motion - it will cut just fine with the 1080 stuff - but interviews and normal footage will probably look better at 25p. You'll also have an easier time shooting in low-light with 25p...


Barry's book has the answers to most of your questions, but in the meantime, take a look at this document from Panasonic regarding picture profiles: http://www.filmrocks.com/pdf/AG_HMC1...leHandbook.pdf

Here's somewhere to start based on what I usually shoot with:
V DETAIL: -3 (These detail settings are ADDING detail, so -7 is the camera shooting without sharpening)
H DETAIL: -3 (AC130 is pretty crispy already, you can sharpen a LITTLE bit in post later if you ever need to)
DETAIL CORING: 0 (You're outside in bright light so no real worries here.=)
CHROMA LEVEL: -2 (Plenty of color from this camera, you can always saturate more in post)
CHROMA PHASE: 0 (More green or more magenta if it suits your taste)
MASTER PEDESTAL: -3 or -4 (This is one that makes a pretty big impact, so tune to your own tastes, -2 to -4 is the general consensus)
DRS: OFF or 1 (Even better, assign this to a User button for when you need it)
GAMMA: HD NORM (Most people seem to be using HD NORM for the cleanest picture - though CINE D might work well for you outside...try it!)
KNEE: LOW (Helps retain detail in bright areas of the scene, this is disabled with CINE D...)
MATRIX: NORM 2 (Again, most people using this for General shooting, FLUO can be useful if you're ever shooting indoors under florescent lights)
SKIN TONE DTL: OFF (Buy a $5 container of powder make-up and use it if you're going to be doing any sort of substantial interviews)

Hook up the camera to a TV set and play around with the scene files. You'll get a feel for what each one does and what you like. It's all really personal taste. There is no "perfect scene file." A particular scene file may work better outside, while another may work better inside - another for fluorescents, one for lit interviews, etc.


Ok, do this now: For the interviews, and especially the outdoor ones, go buy a big collapsible bounce disc with white on one side and silver/gold on the other. Even better if its translucent on the inside. Seriously. Right now. With this camera you're going to struggle with dynamic range doing outside stuff (as you would with most any camera), so make it easy on yourself and get the accessory that will make a HUGE difference.


Unfortunately, the AC130 will NOT be getting the 1080p50 upgrade.


Hope that helps!

[Tony Maceo]

And a good bounce disc holder... human or otherwise. :-)

[chervas]

Nate, do you have a scene file to match the 130 to the AF100 or vice versa? Thanks

[Nate Haustein]

Sure, here's what I've been using. They don't match perfect, the red hues are a tad different because of the sensor, but I think they're pretty close. The "SHOW/EVENT" settings were calibrated to match as close as possible, while the "CINEMATIC" presets are general settings that I find favorable for most shooting conditions. I adjust the Chroma and Sharpness on location depending on what I'm shooting, with less sharpness and less chroma for narrative pieces and sharper and more saturated images for stuff I don't plan on color correcting or ENG work.

– Settings not mentioned are "0" –

FOR LIT STAGE SHOWS/EVENTS:

AF100
Detail: 0
V Detail: 0
Detail Coring: +2
Chroma: 0
Chroma Phase: +2
Master Ped: -2
Gamma: HD Norm
Knee: Low
Matrix: Cine-Like

AC130/160
Detail: 0
V Detail: 0
Detail Coring: +2
Chroma: -1
Chroma Phase: +3
Master Ped: -2
Gamma: HD Norm
Knee: Low
Matrix: Cine-Like


FOR GENERAL "CINEMATIC" USE TO BE GRADED LATER:

AF100
Detail: -3
V Detail: -3
Chroma: -4
Master Ped: -2
DRS: Off
Gamma: HD Norm
Knee: Low
Matrix: Norm 2


AC130/160Detail: -3
V Detail: -3
Master Ped: -3
DRS: Off
Gamma: HD Norm OR Cine-Like D
Knee: Low
Matrix: Norm 2 OR Fluo



*** I shoot with Kino Flo lights, so sometimes I'll change up the AC130/160 with the FLOU Matrix. Similarly, if my scene is well-lit and I need to see more detail in the lows, for example in product training videos, I'll use the Cine-Like D settings on the 130/160. Because of the larger sensor, the AF100 seems to do alright in both of these special instances staying with the HD NORM Gamma all the time, but I may switch to the FLOU Matrix if the scene calls for it. Again, there is no perfect preset! Learn what the settings do and be confident in switching them for the particular scene you're shooting!

[chervas]

Thanks very much Nate.

[ELN614]

So what have been people's settings for outdoors w/ bright sun and no other lighting. (essentially I am shooting a moving object that spans an area of half of a football field. I shoot at ground level so sky affects my images. I am hoping the settings below will address the different values between subject and sky.
Seems like :
Gamma: Low
Knee: Low
Chroma Level: +1 (to help add a hint of saturation)
DRS: (arg) half of me wants 'off' the other half says go for '3'. Seems like 3 would help cut down on the high contrast the sun gives me. the book talks about noise but I assume being well lit, noise should not be a factor.

everything else I plan to leave at normal levels (0)

anyone have any thoughts or experiences on any of this?

[Barry_Green]

Shooting with DRS 3 on an AC cam means giving the camera permission to add up to +18dB of gain in the shadows. I would never use drs 3 unless there was no other way to get the shot.

[ELN614]

So DRS does not act like a TBC and adjusts the black level.. it rather just bumps up the gain in the shadows. I don't want to call that cheating... but it sounds like a less than desirable way to adjust the black level.
what about the over exposed areas? How does DRS handle that? no such thing as -18dB

[LanceOregon]

what about the over exposed areas? How does DRS handle that? no such thing as -18dB

Well, but you are not supposed to have overexposed, blown out highlights. That is what the Zebra patterns function is for, is to give you a warning to avoid such a scenario taking place.

If despite your best efforts highlights are still overexposed, then you will need to do some post-processing to correct that.