I bought this and mounted it horizontally on my AC160 shoe (middle position). The plan was to remove the shotgun mike tube holder that comes with the camera so that I could mount either my Rode VideoMic or the smaller VideoMic Pro plus an on-camera light on the camera.
Sounded like a reasonable approach but the frame seems to jiggle given there is only one connection to the camera.
I can see from the picture on the packaging that installing what appears to be a wireless audio receiver in the midde of the loop might make things look less goofy but right now I don't have anything to put there.
Comments please from anyone who has positive or negative experience with this device.
I was attracted to the MultiMount 5D by the suggestions that it has 4 horizontal shoes and one vertical shoe (mic, light and eventually wirelsss receiver).
The MultiMount 5D stucturally IS solid (polycarbonate) - but ends up being "jiggly" because the entire structure sits on one hot shoe connector to the camera.
I suppose it could get top heavy if you put too many things on it.
When it is used in the horizontal position, there are three mounting options. (left, center, right) - if I am today complaining about it being mounted using the center connection position, I shudder to think what it would be like using either the left or right connection only.
All in all, if I could just stop fussing over how it looks until I settle on a wireless audio receiver (subject of another discussion topic), I cannnot identify anything basically wrong with MultiMount 5D
Thread: BeachTek MultiMount 5D
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06-17-2012 12:35 PM
Last edited by kwkeirstead; 06-17-2012 at 01:58 PM.
06-17-2012 05:14 PM
- Join Date
- Mar 2011
A cold shoe probably isn't the best anchor point for a multishoe device in the first place. I would be very tempted to modify any multishoe rig so it doesn'r mount on the camera's coldshoe but actually bolts onto the handle. The 1/4" and 3/8" holes in the handle are a LOT tougher and the 3/8" one, especially, would be a nice tough and study anchor point for a multi coldshoe rig. I would definately investigate if the Multimount can be adapted so you can fasten it a little futher back thru the 3/8" handle hole!!
06-17-2012 06:08 PM
- Join Date
- Mar 2011
Now, having had a good look at the device, this is what I would do :
Remove the male cold shoe connection at the bottom and cut a triangular aluminium plate that extends at the wide part of the triangle so the two "feet" sit on it and then drill a hole in the plate (aluminium is easiest) and fasten the plate with a 1/4" machine screw into the bottom centre female shoe (all the shoes have 1/4" threads in them) That will give you a sturdy aluminium base that the rig sits on.
Now, drill two holes behind the rig thru the plate so you can use two tripod screws and fasten it securely onto the camera handle using Panasonic's already threaded holes there and you will have a nice sturdy base that won't wobble at all. You can spray the base plate a flat black so it blends in with the camera colour. That way you can easily remove the rig by just undoing the plate screws that go into the handle and there will be no wobbles at all!!!
06-18-2012 08:43 AM
Chris, great ideas...The bottom of the device when mounted horizontally has one center shoe with two blanks on either side (2.5 inches apart). Going back from the proposed triangular plate we have a distance of 5 inches to get to the last of the three camera handle holes. I can make the plate and I agree it will make a nice sturdy base. So, on this basis, I am going to keep the BeachTek device.
Now all I need is to identify a proper wireless receiver to mount on the bottom middle shoe. The idea for this project is to come out of a mixer (provided by others) via an XLR connection into the audio recorder/transmitter. Then at the receiving end, I will come out of the receiver with an XLR and put this into channel 2.
I will need to get advice as to whether this is a reasonable way to record concerts from a distance of up to 100 feet.
You can see from my avatar that I have the Gliders Grey set up and working. I get the impression lots of practice is needed, perhaps not as much as for a steady cam. The rods don't seem to allow the camera to "float" - maybe you are supposed to position things and then lock them down? You mentioned you applied 'water paper' - no clue what that is
Last edited by kwkeirstead; 06-18-2012 at 08:49 AM.
06-18-2012 05:39 PM
- Join Date
- Mar 2011
I cannot suggest a radio receiver as you have different frequencies to us but be very very careful that you don't but any that are using banned frequencies!! They work fine until a passing EMT unit spoils your audio.
Now if you loosen the thumb wheels on the spring rod they should spring right open and also be able to smoothly slide in and out of each other. Mine was a bit sticky so I reduced the top rods diameter with some very fine abrasive paper (we call it water paper or wet and dry abrasive paper as you can use it wet) So all I really did was remove a tiny amount of the black coating on one rod until the rods slid smoothly in and out. Yes, you have to use them with the thumb wheels fully loose!! I also have a mini ball head between the rig and the rod so the camera can move in any direction....nope, it needs no "practice" just set it up right and the rod will support the camera and you will need a small amount of pressure to bring it level...you know it's set up right when the camera points slightly upward.
06-20-2012 08:27 AM
Thanks again and again, Chris
I bought Barry Green's Sound DVD yesterday. It's worth many times the price.
Lesson #1 : No shotgun on camera mics 100 feet from a stage.
And, it looks like the inside loop of the Beachtek is going to have to remain empty - his recommendations re wireless are about the same as yours.
I think the solution going forward is going to be something like a ZOOM H4, never mind the problems of having to synch, it's just something that is going to be necessary.
It seems that you can from the AC 160 synch the timecodes with external devices and then, all one needs is a way to cause stop record at the camera to transmit to the audio recorder and things should be OK. Not practical to try to run 100 foot wires between the audio recorder up front and the camera back 100 feet.
I expect to be asked to record various events part of a 5 day music festival where events will be going on all over the town, so I need to do a job on the rods (mine are also sticky) and be proficient get up to speed with Gliders before this starts up.