Anamorphic 7D

[robmneilson]

Almost all of the cheap methods of going anamorphic are going to be very problematic. But if you go legit with a lomo, or an Isco you can get great results. Unfortunately the iscorama lenses are way overpriced, and you can get a good deal on a Lomo but more often than not you will have to put several hundred bucks of servicing into what you bought.

But you can get good results even with a 16x9 sensor. I ended up blowing up the footage I shot for this short, and it came out pretty ok.

[robmneilson]

Do note that if you're going to lomo method on a 7D you will only be able to mount the roundfronts. If you want the cheaper squarefronts you will need to go mirrorless.

[lxjordanxl]

Does anyone know if I will lose stops on my 7D with one of these anamorphic lenses on it?

[Egg Born Son]

any glass will lose light. most projector anamorphics will be less than one stop (many as little as 1/4, a few as much as 2), integrated anamorphic/taking lens solutions such as lomo will have f-stop/t-stop as marked. Cinemorph lists as 2 stops.

[Jordan Scott Price]

I am selling the Panasonic 1.33x Anamorphic Adapter over in the Marketplace. Unique anamorphic look when mounted onto any SLR lens.

http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthread...orphic-Adapter

[robmneilson]

Before I got my legit lomos I had an anamorphic front from a squarefront, and adapter that via step rings to a Helios 85mm. I could barely detect a loss of light with that setup.

[Egg Born Son]

^ from my research the majority of anamorphic glass is in the range of around 1/4 stop of light loss (although a few like Hilux are 1 1/4 or higher). I've got three and I can't detect any light loss by eye with any of them. I assume it's so low because it's trapping twice the light the light of a regular lens, but that is a total guess - it could conversely simply be because it's not spherical.

Jealous of the lomos. I've got a 1.7x off a 16mm slide projector, a variable prism panatar (which I think has alignment issues) and a huge cinema projector lens. I could've bought a bargain Sankor or Kowa for little more than I spent (with shipping) but I've learnt a lot from having the three types to compare and now I know where to put my money if I buy another. Only the small 16mm slide projector lens is of a practical size. A bit soft in its close range but I suspect a diopter might sharpen it up - if I can ever find one that is. Just got beaten in auction for the only +0.5 I've seen on ebay (dammit, only by $10 too)!

[robmneilson]

What size thread diopter do you need? I have one laying around somewhere that I bought for when I was pairing up anamorphic lenses...I might not be able to find it in all my clutter of crap, or if it will even fit your 16mm projector lens but I know I have one!

Found it, Hoya 49mm +4 diopter! Want it? Super tiny thread, was meant for my Helios 55mm lens.

[kostas]

A bit soft in its close range but I suspect a diopter might sharpen it up - if I can ever find one that is. Just got beaten in auction for the only +0.5 I've seen on ebay (dammit, only by $10 too)!

I have several +0.5 diopters in 72mm thread size. Even some super rare, larger ones for the Iscorama 54, Hypergonar etc.
These are all great quality optics for your lenses, not junk. I use them anytime on my Iscorama.
If you want to buy one just send me a pm.
The +4 diopter would only be good for macro work. The most useful diopter power for anamorhics are the +0.5 and +1 (getting two +0.5 is probably the best solution).

[Kenneth Lau]

I think he just put a mask on in the post, like a black bar on top and bottom.

Talking about aspect ratio, this video is also shot by a DSLR. https://vimeo.com/32627818

Does anyone know how to export it to this kind of aspect ration?