I think I've done all my research, but before I pull the trigger on some kino flos, anyone care to weigh in on the pros/cons between tungsten?
Here's what I understand:
-Daylight balanced (and bulbs could be switched for tungsten)
-Doesn't run as hot
-Won't hold up as well as quality tungsten (you hear plenty about people using Mole or Arri tungstens from twenty years ago... I can't imagine a kino flo setup lasting quite as long)
-Harder to control
Am I missing anything? Would I need to buy a ballast for a kino flo or not? (I'm not entirely sure what the deal is with the ballast but it's my understanding if I'm plugging it into house/apartment outlets I should be fine, but if using a generator I'd need a ballast)
edit: Realized I probably should've put this in the lighting gear section, still getting used to the new layout of the site... any mods care to move it for me?
Results 1 to 10 of 25
03-14-2012 02:41 AM
- Join Date
- Oct 2009
03-14-2012 03:10 AM
Definitely need a ballast for the fixture. It won't work otherwise.
The kinos are a bit more of an investment, but absolutely worth the money. Honestly, you can't go wrong either way as long as you're buying Kino or Mole branded gear.
03-14-2012 03:45 AM
- Join Date
- Apr 2010
- Sydney, Australia
Is softer light a pro, though? Depends on the situation, right? And it's easier to make a hard source soft than a soft source hard.
- Join Date
- Oct 2009
03-14-2012 06:22 AM
I have Kino-flo divas and fresnels. In the long run, you'll want both. It depends on what you're doing. For lighting people, I love the kinos. Daylight, yep, also with the eggcrate they are fairly directional and if you back them off you can get a pretty hard light.
The thing that makes the kino invaluable to me is that the light falls off quickly. This enables me to create depth. But then I'm lighting the background with fresnels ;)
The smaller fresnels are great for kickers or hairlights as well as lighting the set.
Another thing about soft light. Really great soft light can be acheived by bouncing hard light. It's more difficult to control but if you're punched in, and not worried about spill, that light is beautiful. Also you can make fresnels more specular by adding some diffusion to the barn doors or better using a silk, or diffusion on a frame in front of it.
Overall I think the fresnels are a good place to start and are more versatile. Sounds a bit ambivalent... sorry but if you had an Arri kit with a softbox I think you'd get more bang for the buck. Those kinos are expensive.
03-14-2012 07:09 AM
As mentioned above, you will want both in a well rounded light kit.
03-14-2012 11:29 AM
What others have said. Have both in my kit but on jobs with limited crew and time i bring my tungsten units. Why? Because in one Arri case i fit 6 Lowel lights (2x 1k, 2x 500w, 2x 250w) and that gives me plenty of various units to face pretty much any challenge. Incidentally if i can afford to bring another case it's still not the kino but a small 200w HMI.
03-14-2012 12:10 PM
As stated if you can only afford one, go tungsten. You can always soften tungsten but you will never be able to do the opposite to flos.Paul
Camera and Grip Electric Rentals in Dallas and Shreveport
Phoenix Video Productions
03-14-2012 01:24 PM
I'm going to move this to the lighting section, as I think you may find additional answers there. I will leave an expiring redirect for a couple of days, so that you continue to get the feedback from the people who have found your post here.