Light Meter help for DSLR

[shortnstout]

Hi,
I just picked up a Sekonic L-758Cine and am trying to figure out how to use it with a DSLR. I know how to use the Spectra ones with a film camera, and can figure out how to use this 758Cine with a film camera (the f/s mode). But I'm not sure how to set it with my DSLR, which uses shutter speed. If set to f/s-mode 50 the meter reads at F3.2, and if I then jog down to T-mode 50 it reads at f/4.5. I believe the T-mode is the more accurate reading. Would the f/s mode only be for a film camera? Was just a bit confused because in the manual it describes f/s as the cinematography mode, and even though DSLRs are digital, they feel like cinematography
Thanks!

[shortnstout]

After doing more tests, I'd say I'm less certain the T-mode is more accurate than the f/s mode. it may be the other way. haha!

[nyvz]

Probably they are both right. I would think that f/s mode assumes 180deg shutter so 50fps is 1/100th shutter, whereas T-mode is shutter mode and 50 means 1/50th shutter. f3.2 is one stop faster than f4.5 to account for the one stop loss by using 1/100th vs 1/50th shutter.

[Ryan E. Walters]

Personally I'd stay in f/s mode. That is the mode to be used with frame rate, as it stands for frames per second. It assumes that you are shooting at a shutter angle of 180 degrees. If you need to change that, just press the mode button along with the ISO2 button and use the jog wheel to adjust as needed.

Here is a handy little cheat sheet for adjusting angles to fractions:
http://provideocoalition.com/index.p...shutter_angle/

[shortnstout]

Thanks! Any tips for figuring out I should adjust the shutter angle to? I guess I could judge with my own eye whether or not it is over/under but was hoping there was a standard for the workflow with the DSLRs. Since the Canon is essentially recording the live view, it seemed like it would be most realistic to go with the Shutter priority at 50. I wasn't sure if the f/s would have to be accounting for any shutter angle equivalent. Should I just change the shutter angle to make the exposure for f/s of 50 match the shutter priority reading? I suppose I could just do exposure compensation also.

[Ryan E. Walters]

Just keep it in f/s mode and set the frame rate on the meter to the same frame rate that you are using on the canon (24 or 30). The camera's shutter angle is up to you and the needs of the shot. Traditional shutter speeds in motion pictures / film is 180 degrees, or 1/48. (1/50 is usually the only option given in most cameras and is close enough to 1/48.) f/s is the mode you want to be in- that is the mode for motion pictures / cinematography. By default it is setting the angle at 180 degrees. if you need to change that, follow my directions posted above. If you do that, you do not need to do any exposure compensation / math- as the meter does all the work for you.

Personally, I think you'll just end up getting yourself into trouble if you go with the T-Mode. That mode can work, but it seems counter intuitive to me, and seems like making yourself work harder then you need to IMO ...

[TiE_Shepherd]

Hey, not to hijack this thread, but if you happen to see this thread Ryan (or anyone that would have some insight)... I'm looking into getting a light meter. Trying to decide between the Sekonic L-308DC and the L-758Cine. It looks like the biggest difference is the spot meter in the 758. I'm sure it's a nice feature to have, but trying to decide if it's worth the nearly triple price difference from the 308DC.

[Barry_Green]

DSLRs don't have shutter angles, so the f/s mode is totally not what you want to use with a DSLR. Use the time mode and manually program in your shutter speed to the light meter.

[TheDingo]

Trying to decide between the Sekonic L-308DC and the L-758Cine

I bought the L-308DC last month, and it's been a joy to work with. I found the manual very badly written, but once I figured out how to input my settings, this meter has been bang on for exposures.

For spot-meter work I plan on buying a Minolta Spotmeter F from eBay for about $200. ( it's a deadly accurate meter, and I am mostly interested in measuring the exposure range of a shot )

[j1clark@ucsd.edu]

I bought the L-308DC last month, and it's been a joy to work with. I found the manual very badly written, but once I figured out how to input my settings, this meter has been bang on for exposures.

For spot-meter work I plan on buying a Minolta Spotmeter F from eBay for about $200. ( it's a deadly accurate meter, and I am mostly interested in measuring the exposure range of a shot )

I've had the Minolta for years. It has a 'memory' mode so you can easily compare areas in terms of stops. After the Wife lost my Honeywell Pentax spot, then the next two were defective, I switched to the Minolta... I don't believe it is made any longer...