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    #51
    Panamaniac
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    Just received a 135mm f2.5 and will be purchasing the conversion kit from here: https://edmika.com/

    Just thought I should revive this thread to see if anyone else is still building an FD set and what recommendations they have. I am eyeing the 50mm f1.2 SSC and an 85mm f1.8 SSC.



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    #52
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    I recently bought a mount for a 200f2.8 v1 from Edmika, having a bit of a problem getting the old mount off and no reply to the email I sent asking for tips. I'll figure it out eventually, but would be nice to get a response with any tips or to confirm what I suspect is the only way to get the old mount off.

    If Marty has the mount you need, I'd go with FDtoEF every time, but his catalog of mounts is smaller than Edmika so you may need to go with that as an option. He does have some of the breach mount lenses now, and the 50 and 85 SSC might be the first that hes has done, you'll need to check his site http://fdtoef.com

    If I do an SSC set, I may leave them as FD mount. The FD mount is a positive locking mount (no rotational play) where the EF always has a little play in the locking pin. If I could buy adapters that were positive locking EF, that would be a remedy, but I haven't seen them and I don'town any cameras that are high enough to include the positive locking EF mount.

    I should probably mention that I have a mount coming from Marty for an FDn 20-35 parfocal zoom. Only primes I could really want are the 35mm and 20mm, te 35mm tends to have issues with the pins that ride in the focus helical, give a sloppy focus ring and the 20 has been more money than I want to spend for a kind of niche lens. My set so far is 15f2.8, 24f2.8, 50f1.2, 85f1.8, 135f2.8, 200f2.8, 35-105f3.5 parfocal, and 20-35f3.5 parfocal and all save the 200 have the metal FDtoEF mounts on them.
    Last edited by Greg_E; 05-15-2019 at 06:21 AM.


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    #53
    Panamaniac
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    Thing is I am using a BMPCC4K, and I really don't want to crop 1.9 into the image circle of the lenses. Even if they are plenty sharp, I have a 0.75 EF focal reducer which puts me right about S35.

    Is it just me or FDtoEF site is down? The page is all messed up in my browser. I did shoot him a line but I haven't received a reply yet. Another benefit is that Edmika is a bit cheaper.



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    #54
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    I talked to Marty yesterday about my most recent order. And yes the site is a mess, looks like the host may have updated something on him which broke the old way of doing things.

    Yes the Edmika is a bit cheaper, you generally need to re-use the aperture actuator arm which gets pressed into the plastic. FDtoEF sends a new piece with the arm. Which is better I don't know but I like the metal mounts better. If you are going to do a full set of the f2 SSC lenses, then Edmika is mostly your only choice.


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    #55
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    An update since I was able to get my 200f2.8 apart... Never did get any help from Edmika on the problems I was having. Got the mount swapped and working, but the iris control is not the best. Pressed the reused lever as far into the plastic bushing as I could (without breaking the plastic) and got everything assembled. Turned the iris ring and noticed that the iris now only moved about every 2/3 stops (or big jumps), the 1/3 stop no longer does anything. Pulled the mount back off, pressed even harder on the lever, got out a small mallet and tapped on the lever... Never really felt secure. Put it back together and still having the iris problem. There must be enough slop in the bushing to cause this issue and for the time being I'm stuck with this mount because FDtoEF does not make one for this lens. So while the Edmika are cheaper, I think the FDtoEF are worth the money. And no Marty hasn't given me anything for free, hasn't paid me, I've bought all of my mounts at normal purchase price. Being able to contrast both now that I have one of the Edmika, the FDtoEF mounts are worth the extra money (at least to me). And keep in mind that I have 3 generations of the FDtoEF mounts, second gen with bare aluminum, third gen with hard nickel plating over aluminum, and as soon as it arrives, fourth gen with hard anodized aluminum mount. He was making brass originally, but the price is so expensive that aluminum was the only way to keep going with a reasonable price. And the aluminum machines more easily so tooling prices are probably lower too.

    Eventually I'll try to shim the 200f2.8 pieces to see if I can remove the slop and get the 1/3 movement back for the iris.


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    #56
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    And by the way, you can get m43 to FD speed boosters from a couple of companies. I haven't tested them yet, but they would be what I would do to go FD on my m43 cameras. That would give you a locking mount so that when the adapter is locked to camera cage or rails, etc, the lens would be positively locked to the adapter. Just another thing to think about.


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    #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by USLatin View Post
    Just received a 135mm f2.5 and will be purchasing the conversion kit from here: https://edmika.com/

    Just thought I should revive this thread to see if anyone else is still building an FD set and what recommendations they have. I am eyeing the 50mm f1.2 SSC and an 85mm f1.8 SSC.
    FWIW I bought a 50mm 1.4 FDn new in about 1980. About 1992 while living in the U.K. I bought used 85mm 1.8 and 135mm 2.8, both FDn. These were all used on 35mm film cameras. In the last year I added a 24mm f2.0 FDn and a 35mm F2.0 breachlock and a Tamron 17mm f3.5 all from eBay. IMO the Tamron is the weakest, but really all the lenses are good. Also back in 1980 I got a Panagor macro adapter that goes between the 50mm and the camera body, goes to 1:1 magnification, does pretty well. Now I'd just get a maco lens off eBay.


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