So sound level always stands for the recording level, never for the current audio volume? (This may be an obvious question, but I'm not speaking English natively.)
Aperture section simplified.
Results 11 to 20 of 27
02-16-2011 09:25 AM
02-16-2011 11:13 AM
- Join Date
- Sep 2010
Anyone have a good "flat" Picture Control setting or curve? Or something more normal with a nice wide dynamic range?
02-16-2011 12:24 PM
This is what you get by editing the Neutral profile and setting the contrast to -2 (Low Contrast):
Large (6k × 6k)
Repeating the game for Saturation:
Large (8k × 4k)
Optically it is close to the Standard profile, I'd say. So, would one want to have a less saturated one? Wouldn't you increase the saturation anyway afterwards? So the details on «Light Red Cinnabar» which are only visible with the Low Saturation profile (full-sized version) would be lost again. (I just wonder; I really don't know it. I'm no editor.)
By the way, it does matter which profile you edit. Vivid will never get close to the low contrast profile above.
PS: Picture profiles can be saved and loaded from SD card. Seems like they are really just adjustments of the already available profiles, modifying saturation etc. by a value <= 3. I tried to use a value greater than 3 (hex-edited a profile), and it just did not get recognized anymore. (It did work with numbers that were in range.)
Last edited by Granjow; 03-05-2011 at 08:28 AM.
02-17-2011 01:52 AM
"(On ON it would show «fEE» when manually changing the aperture with the ring.)"
No, you´ll get the f stop of the lens (as a decimal number) or real the f stop of the lens if you have told the camera what lense you are using. Yes, you can use a 50mm from 1960 and the camera will recognize what f stop you are using. This will also work in Ae mode, so you can use a fixed ISO, a fixed f stop and let the camera choose the shutter speed. Very handy in some situations.
Macgregor™ is a trademark of Miguel de Olaso
02-17-2011 05:55 AM
But this is only true for non-CPU lenses? (I cannot test those, don't own one.)
04-02-2011 12:28 PM
- Join Date
- Apr 2011
I just registered to thank you for this guide
I own a D7000 for a few days now and I'm pretty amazed with its capabilities (I had a second-hand nikon D100 before, quite a big jump from one to another)
I find really useful having the secondary command dial to change my aperture while in normal mode (non-live view mode I mean) and I was starting to get bored of needing to go through f6 Custom Settings Menu > Controls > Customize command dials > Aperture setting every time I wanted to change between making videos and taking photos, so I configured the Fn button to access directly to that menu. Just in case anyone is interested, here's how to configure it:
You first have to add this option to "My Menu", go to My menu (last option of the camera's main menu), in there, you select "Add items" and go through f6 Custom Settings Menu > Controls > Customize command dials > aperture setting. Once you got there and press "Ok", "Aperture setting" will appear on "My menu". Now you have to go to: f3 Custom Settings Menu > Controls > Assign Fn button and choose "Access top item in MY MENU" and it's done!
Last edited by AlvaroCS; 04-03-2011 at 10:39 AM. Reason: adding more information to the thread and avoiding posting two posts in a row.
04-21-2011 11:47 PM
- Join Date
- Apr 2011
I recently had to fix someone else's audio recorded on a high-end DSLR. This was 9 minutes of talk video with lip-sync all the way through. All the audio was recorded at too high a level and had totally unacceptable clipping distortion. This happened because professional audio monitoring in DSLRs is still a thing of the future. Although I have software which claims to fix this distortion, we ended up having to post-sync the whole thing. It was a nightmare for all.
So when I had to do a shoot on my new Nikon D7000 I decided to record the audio separately on a professional recorder. I have a Marantz PMD671, but you can use much cheaper recorders, such as Tascam DR series or many others. Here are a few tips:
1. You should still record audio on your DSLR, either through the built-in mic or even do it properly with external mics (i.e. do two good recordings simultaneously). If the DSLR audio is good on its own, you don't have to bother with the external recording. But backup is always a good thing. Even if the DSLR audio is not usable, it can be very useful as a guide track when you have to sync the external audio in your NLE.
2. You have to use some sort of syncing device on the set. Of course a real clapper board is the coolest and will blow your clients/talent away. But anything that makes a short sharp sound and is visible to the camera will do, e.g. the sound of two hands clapping. Naturally, you also need to say, "Movie X, Scene X, take X" etc to identify each audio clip.
3. When editing in your NLE, you have to make sure that your timeline is set to the same frame rate as the video recorded by your DSLR. This may sound obvious, but I made this error on my first attempt because I was mixing footage from my Sony EX-1 shot at 25fps. The Nikon was shooting 24fps. The video was re-synced by Final Cut Pro, but there were major sync issues with the external sound, which then had to be manually re-synced for every half minute or so of footage. The obvious way if you are mixing footage is of course, make sure all your cameras are recording the same frame rate to begin with.
Hope this is helpful to someone, and maybe others will contribute other useful information.
04-22-2011 05:38 AM
- Join Date
- Aug 2007
Agreed, Mr. WideScreen. Always record a guide track using the internal mic on the DSLR. Then you can use PluralEyes to automatically sync the dual-system audio. The new version of FCP also promises to do this out of the box, with out any need for plugins.
04-25-2011 09:24 AM
some comments on this nikonrumors post say the latest D7000 firmware update allows aperture changes in liveview... but they don't seem to affect the footage!!
06-04-2011 06:00 AM
- Join Date
- Jun 2011
Alright, I'm having some trouble understanding Nikon's thinking here and I'm hoping you guys can help me out. So if I got this right, you can turn the wheel on any mode and everything is automatic (in terms of shutter speed, ISO, aperture... ) in video mode - except for the M-mode that is.
Is there any way I can turn the shutter speed to say 50 (which is closest to the "sweet spot" in cinema if you shoot in 24 FPS) and everything else goes automatic? This worked with my previous camera, the Canon 550D and I absolutely loved that feature. A consistent shutter speed is important for many reasons, and I don't have the time to go fully manual with ISOs and apertures.
So to summarize - a manual shutter speed and everything else automatic. If this is not possible, is there like a "magic lantern" hack to open up this feature?