My DIY 35mm for Leica lenses...

[Inexistence]

So after a long road of 3d work I finally settled on Leica lenses and a Beattie
screen for my own custom vibrating 35mm adapter.

It's 58mm in dia with a height/depth of 31mm. Couple that together with a
nice pancake lens for an ultra compact and lightweight package for run and gun.

All the electronics/power are mounted elsewhere to ease weight off the front
threads of the DVX100B. 12mm button is used for the vibration, lipo cells for
power and accompanying components to manage the power.

...and I have zero plans on selling it because of the impracticality of obtaining
costly Leica glass. Besides I'd rather be out there shooting with it instead of
building it!

Here are a few pics of the raw plastic build pieces. It' going to be matte black on
all surfaces for good measure and to make it completely opaque.

Thank you Dan for the inspiration for this. You're knowledge is very much
apprieciated!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!

Nikon 50 1.4 pictured for size reference.
http://inexistence.cc/misc/NVFX_Leica_001.jpg
http://inexistence.cc/misc/NVFX_Leica_002.jpg
http://inexistence.cc/misc/NVFX_Leica_003.jpg

[jgastelb]

Very nice! Footage???

Jgastelb

[Car3o]

What is that white plastic you have holding the ring and lens mount?

[Inexistence]

The white plastic is the actual adapter piece unpainted. It's a two part system.
I wasn't too keen on the idea of finding a suitable tube and fitting mounts and
filter rings to it. I ended up designing the piece from the ground up. After I paint
them tomorrow night I'll post pics of all the parts. Then I can move on to capturing
footage. The PSP screen initial test is pretty good so I'll post that too.

[Car3o]

nice. but what exactly is that white piece? pvc pipe?

[Alex0607]

I believe its a CNC part from a block of white plastic. Can also use Delrin, its a type of black plastic that can be CNC'ed. No need to spray paint after fabrication.

[Inexistence]

I'll post some pics of the build tonight! Oh and Alex yes it can be CNC'ed. The test
pieces were 3d builds-stereolithography. Great process. A bit pricey initially but you
can make molds for multiple parts later just incase something breaks. It is nice
because I can make as many parts as I like to experiment with.

[Inexistence]

The two unpainted white plastic pieces were built in 3d and then
I sent them to be transformed into stereolithography parts.

-Leica M mount hardware
-STL parts/Toenis style vibration plate
-58mm filter ring
-12mm button motor

http://inexistence.cc/misc/NVFX35mm_build_001.jpg

Parts are now painted.
http://inexistence.cc/misc/NVFX35mm_build_002.jpg

Basic construction. Next update I'll go over the placement of the
motor and diffuser.
http://inexistence.cc/misc/NVFX35mm_build_003.jpg

[Alex.Flory]

Looking very nice.

[Inexistence]

Thanks! Are you going to go the CNC route with your design Alex? I think I
could benefit from a nice metal shell myself.

[Alex.Flory]

Yes, Its being CNC out as I type this. Should be done by the end of the month. Hopefully to get it sooner though. If you are in the states, its easy to get metal shop around to get the stuff CNC'ed. Where I am from, I had to send the design out to be done.

[faultygoblin]

Very impressive,
Pease post screen grabs when you get a chance,
also would like to see some shots or schematics of the power set up.

[Inexistence]

Here's a shot of the motor in place ready for the Beattie screen.
http://inexistence.cc/misc/NVFX35mm_motor.jpg

Beattie now positioned and glued in place ready for placement into the body.
http://inexistence.cc/misc/NVFX35m_motor_Beattie.jpg

Construction of the body and screen is complete with lens in place. Almost there!
http://inexistence.cc/misc/NVFX35mm_with_lens.jpg

I might need an achromat after initial tests and it needs tweaking for the
correct back focus. Other than that it's on to the electronic parts.

[Inexistence]

Century Optics achro came in today so maybe I'll be able to do a couple of grabs
for this update tonight. The CV lens I have now exhibits more vignetting than your
average Nikon but, it looks so much better stop down for some reason than the Nikon.

[Rodney V. Smith]

Where did you get the 12mm button motor? I googled it and the only result that even came close was from the UK. Did you get it locally?

I adapted my design taking a cue from yours, and I'm using a 58mm Spacer Ring with a 10+ Macro at the back. It looks pretty damn good and I finally managed to get clarity with my 28mm lens.... now I just need to get it vibrating and this little button motor looks like the perfect thing.

Clue us in please

[Inexistence]

Here are the very first shots from my DIY. Definitely needed the +7 CO in the setup.

The Nikon proved to be quite the opposite than I had thought. The CV faired better
in every test although not practical for FF gears. I color corrected a shot just to see
what's possible and the results were good. The target size is a full 36x24mm frame
which I would crop in post. The back focus is still off which I'll fix for my next update.

Here are the pics!
Test 1 (http://inexistence.cc/misc/NVFX35mm_Test_001.jpg)
Test 2 (http://inexistence.cc/misc/NVFX35mm_Test_002.jpg)
Test 3 (http://inexistence.cc/misc/NVFX35mm_Test_003.jpg)
Comparison (http://inexistence.cc/misc/NVFX35mm_compare.jpg)


puck, I sourced mine from solarbotics. They are all over
the web too, you have to search!!

[Rodney V. Smith]

Thanks. I'd actually done a lot more searching after finding that the Sanko motors had been discontinued. I found a few places that actually sold the motor, but then I found a thread that mentioned the motors were used to make cellphones vibrate.

So I proceeded to take apart my old Nokia and found the little motor. I've so far hooked it up to my adapter and I'm in the process of trying to make the bloody thing work.

So much tweaking to do...

Can you share how you're rigging yours up to vibrate? I'm in the process right now of hunting down some teeny tiny springs...

[Inexistence]

Take a look at Daniel's site www.jetsetmodels.info (http://www.jetsetmodels.info/)
He has a pretty cool, cost effective, hassel free vibration
device that sits inside a tube of your choice. I followed
the idea in the same manner from the original design
from Toenis. Where is Toenis anyways? I haven't seen him
around lately.

[Rodney V. Smith]

thanks dude. much appreciated. Now I gotta get the right motor... the Nokia vibrator doesn't vibrate it early enough though it does vibrate the hell outt my fingers. So far best clarity is with my static adapter so I'm gonna keep plugging away at it.

[Rodney V. Smith]

This was adapted from Edweirdo's design and now combines your focusing screen set up with that. Great idea and thanks for sharing it. It simplified things greatly for me anf finally brought more focus to my 28mm lens.

These are the parts I used to build my adapter:
Asian Macro 10+
Asian 58mm spacer ring

For the GG-Holder I took off the matte top of a 58mm lens cap and cut out a hole to hold the Nikon D Focusing Screen
49mm-52mm step up ring
a washer (from a hardware store)

http://www.flyinmonkey.com/RVS-35mm/parts.gif

GG HOLDER
http://www.flyinmonkey.com/RVS-35mm/ggholder.gif

With my 28mm lens
http://www.flyinmonkey.com/RVS-35mm/assembly2.gif


http://www.flyinmonkey.com/RVS-35mm/adapterw-28mm.gif

[Inexistence]

thanks dude. much appreciated. Now I gotta get the right motor... the Nokia vibrator doesn't vibrate it early enough though it does vibrate the hell outt my fingers. So far best clarity is with my static adapter so I'm gonna keep plugging away at it.

The Toenis design is based on a leaf spring system. The image plane can move on
the X&Y axis but not the Z. The screen needs to be suspended inside the leaf springs
in order to accomplish that. Any motor can vibrate the screen in this fashion without
too much trouble. Infact the tiny motor you have now is more than enough and
even then it would be running at a considerably lower power rate.

[Inexistence]

http://inexistence.cc/misc/Leafsprings.jpg

[Daniel Schaumberger]

Hi Inexistence,

did you tried the vibration of your gg-holder. The leafsprings looks a little too thick. If you need help feel free to ask.

merry christmas
Daniel

[Spartacus]

Dang it!
I can cope with the fact that I have two left hands and will never be that DIY, but what really bothers me is that you guys seem to constantly improve those adapters.
Just being afraid to cash out 1500$ for a M2BrevisSgprowhatever and finding out the real deal has just been created for 200 bucks...
But hell, the 1500$ still is soooo much less than the P+S...
Keep up the good work guys!

[Inexistence]

Daniel,

Actual yes and you're correct they are just a tad too thick. I've never seen any of the
Somos photopolymer plastic upclose so I took a chance and made the springs thicker
than they needed to be hoping they would not break during the build process. My hope
was that I would have the material in hand for flexibility evaulation and to have
enough material to shave away if the vibration was not wide enough to rid the image
of grain. Turns out the the Somos stuff is really flexible, strong and very accurate
so I sent out another 3d model for printing with thinner leafsprings. I should be
getting the parts in tomorrow and I'll post pics too.

Happy Holidays to you too!!

[j]

>So far best clarity is with my static adapter

why?

[Inexistence]

Spartacus checkout Dan's product line if you wanna get 'the look' without
breaking the bank.

j, what are you using as your screen?

[Rodney V. Smith]

The Toenis design is based on a leaf spring system. The image plane can move on
the X&Y axis but not the Z. The screen needs to be suspended inside the leaf springs
in order to accomplish that. Any motor can vibrate the screen in this fashion without
too much trouble. Infact the tiny motor you have now is more than enough and
even then it would be running at a considerably lower power rate.
So that was what that intricate pattern was for. that was the one thing I couldn't figure out and here I was wrecking keyboards and other miscellaneous items for parts... this is the piece you had to get machine cut I imagine... I'd love to see the assembly and how it's mounted so I can get started on Version 2.0 of my vibrating screen...

[Rodney V. Smith]

Um.. cuz I screwed up with my design? :-D

I'm going to just make a copy of my static adapter and build onto that to make the vibrating screen work. I'd purchased pretty much 2 of everything (except the screen so hopefully I can get a working prototype together before I have to get a new focusing screen. The screen I have right now in the static adapter just clips in and out so for test purposes I shoudl be pretty set.

[Inexistence]

Yessiry! It looks like crop circle pattern.

http://lamentations.blogspirit.com/images/medium_crop_circle_Norfolk.jpg

[Rodney V. Smith]

Yessiry! It looks like crop circle pattern.

http://lamentations.blogspirit.com/images/medium_crop_circle_Norfolk.jpg
I had a feeling this was going to get complicated...

[j]

I'm using a 5-micron hand ground glass, which has too much grain. In version 3.0 I upgraded to a vibrating design inspired by the q-tip adapter, which works well, but the motor is WAY too loud. Version 4.0 will use a nikon type-d with a 12mm button motor on a q-tip mount, however, the new "crop circle" mounts look great. The problem I have is how to orient the GG when the adapter is screwed on...

[Inexistence]

The orientation is a problem for me too. Right now my quick fix is a little tab that
I can use plyers on to rotate the mount inside the tube then screwing it back on.
I put little tick marks on the filter ring to help figure out how far to rotate the screen
in either direction.

[Rodney V. Smith]

I'm using a 5-micron hand ground glass, which has too much grain. In version 3.0 I upgraded to a vibrating design inspired by the q-tip adapter, which works well, but the motor is WAY too loud. Version 4.0 will use a nikon type-d with a 12mm button motor on a q-tip mount, however, the new "crop circle" mounts look great. The problem I have is how to orient the GG when the adapter is screwed on...
That's a problem that I had been facing with the static adapter. Id finally fixed it by using a "washer" i made to fit over the ground glass holder and hold it in place once oriented. Now going to work on the vibrating design, that stop gap measure isn't going to work...

[j]

I'm thinking about using a "shell" from a 50mm uv filter(w/o the glass). I'm thinking if I mount my nikon D in a round plastic disc of the right size, I can put that in where the filter was and rotate it easilly in there.

[Inexistence]

that sounds like a good idea and easy

[Inexistence]

I decided to put together a little comparison of the NVFX35+lens against
raw DVX100B footage. The results were interesting. The detail retention
seemed very good to me but, others might disagree.

Here's the test. All grabs are untreated.

Edit: Forgot to mention that the 40mm lens had a UV filter that contributed
to the darkened edges. The vibration is off which leads to even more image softening.

http://inexistence.cc/misc/NVFX35mm_Detail_retention.jpg

[Daniel Schaumberger]

Hi guys,

I solved the orientation problem with circular polarizing filter ring (without glass of course). Look at my VH-72ND vibrating gg-holder on my homepage. The whole gg-holder is mounted into two filter-rings one of these is a circular filter-ring. After screwing the adapter to your cam you can orient the whole thing like you want. Its very simple. But you will definitely need a rod-support because I dont think that the circular filter-ring will take the weight of the adapter plus lens.

Daniel

[Rodney V. Smith]

Hi guys,

I solved the orientation problem with circular polarizing filter ring (without glass of course). Look at my VH-72ND vibrating gg-holder on my homepage. The whole gg-holder is mounted into two filter-rings one of these is a circular filter-ring. After screwing the adapter to your cam you can orient the whole thing like you want. Its very simple. But you will definitely need a rod-support because I dont think that the circular filter-ring will take the weight of the adapter plus lens.

Daniel

dude, been checking out your work. nice stuff you got there. I'm going to have to invest insom eof your equipment after this next round (ver 2.0) of my experiment. I'll try the filter ring trick.. just gotta get the right size now.

[leteeci]

Look at my VH-72ND vibrating gg-holder on my homepage.

The whole gg-holder is mounted into two filter-rings one of these is a circular filter-ring. After screwing the adapter to your cam you can orient the whole thing like you want.

Daniel



Daniel!



I admired that design of yours, some days ago..



Compliments!!!




The only thing I was sceptical/had questions about..

Can you mount 72mm achromat directly to that VH-72ND and than to the

camcorder... or you need some 72mm tube ( which one? ) to make larger

distance between GG holder and achromat / camcorder ?



Cheers:beer:


david


.

[Daniel Schaumberger]

Hi David,

normally you can mount the VH-72ND directly to your achromat/camcorder but if you get vignetting or you cant focus on gg (depends on camcorder used) you will need some empty 72mm UV-Filter rings to get some distance. From others I know that with a +10 achromat the distance between camcorder and gg should be about 40mm to get rid of the vignetting and focusing problem.

If you cant find a 72mm tube with 40mm in length buy the cheapest 72mm close up filter set from ebay and take out the lenses that should be the right length.

best regards
Daniel

[Rodney V. Smith]

Hi David,

normally you can mount the VH-72ND directly to your achromat/camcorder but if you get vignetting or you cant focus on gg (depends on camcorder used) you will need some empty 72mm UV-Filter rings to get some distance. From others I know that with a +10 achromat the distance between camcorder and gg should be about 40mm to get rid of the vignetting and focusing problem.

If you cant find a 72mm tube with 40mm in length buy the cheapest 72mm close up filter set from ebay and take out the lenses that should be the right length.

best regards
Daniel

Right now my only problem is with my 28mm lens. that's the only vignetting I'm ever getting. And I've finally gotten my GG to the right distance where the image from my 28mm is in focus (it was blurry before) so it seems to be a good distance for all of my lenses. Any hints?

[Daniel Schaumberger]

I need more info about your system to help you. Normally with my cam vignetting appears only at about 17mm.

1.Which lens do you use Nikon, Canon...
2.What distance gg to camcorder
3.What Achromat (focal length)
4.Which camcorder do you use
5.Maybe a photos or drawing will help to understand

Daniel

[Rodney V. Smith]

Daniel:
I use Canon FD lenses with a Panasonic DVX100A, Asian 58mm Macro 10+
Inside the Asian 58mm Spacer ring is my GG, which is 13mm from the bottom of the spacer Ring

The assembly goes from DVX-->72mm-58mm Stepdown -->Asian Macro 10+ -->Asian Spacer (with GG inside) --> lens mount -- Canon lens.

The asian spacer tube is 1.5 inches (40mm) wide;
the Asian macro is 10mm wide;
the 72-58 step down is 3mm wide

so my GG is about 26mm from the DVX

[Daniel Schaumberger]

Ok,

focal flange for Canon FD mount is 42mm (distance between slr-bayonett and gg). Did you tried to increase the distance from gg to DVX more than 26mm and zoom a little bit more in? That should solve your vignetting problem.

I forgot to ask what focusing screen do you use. Is it a Canon Ee-S/Ee-A or Nikon D with integrated condenser? If not you will need a Biconvex condenser lens also.

Daniel

[Rodney V. Smith]

Daniel: I use the Nikon D focusing screen. i'll try to increase the distance and report my success/failure. thanks.

Right now at 26mm my zoom is set at 71

[Inexistence]

This is another test for grain and detail I'd like to share. I think my back focus
is just a tad off for infinity focus. I wanted to see at which f-stop that the grain
would show up with the CV40mm. The image is still nice when not @ F16 on the
40mm and I dig the way this lens renders the details. It 'picks and chooses' areas
to render sharp. Pay particular attention to the branches because the DVX renders
thems with a tinge of purple while the Beattie+40mm renders them with nice
neutral colors. One can also fix purple fringing in post if the mood strikes. This is
all very unscientific so don't shoot me. Enough chatter from me...


TEST (http://inexistence.cc/misc/NVFX35mm_grain_f16.jpg)

[Inexistence]

I'll have a few short clips later this evening. One clip is a grain test and the
other is a focus test. I'll try to shoot some outside footage for viewing later.

A few achromats later... here is the system connected to a DVX100B.
http://inexistence.cc/misc/NVFX35mm_system.jpg

(http://download-v5.streamload.com/hTI5lQIX%7EJIwR%7EcLr7%7E2sz7%7EXRV-sdJL-RDm/nvfx35mm/FileManager/NVFX35mm_grain%2bfocus_test_003.mov?action=save)

[Kholi]

Waiting for Clips.

[Inexistence]

Please conserve my bandwidth and download only! Thanks!

Here's some footage. It really doesn't show much but, atleast it's footage:)

First clip is just a simple grain test. I didn't take any notes on this shot.
The vibration is off and the focus is pretty sharp.
TEST 1 (http://inexistence.web.aplus.net/misc/NVFX35mm_grain_test_001.mov)

This second clip is just a simple pan to see if grain is present. The vibration
is on. This is with a 1.5v AA straight with no trimpot for motor speed.
TEST 2 (http://inexistence.web.aplus.net/misc/NVFX35mm_grain_test_002.mov)

Third clip I didn't record the settings and the vibration is off. Noisy DVX blacks.
TEST 3 (http://inexistence.web.aplus.net/misc/NVFX35mm_grainfocus_test_003.mov)

The Beattie is not very grainy in bright conditions whether the vibration is on
or off. I really need to trim the power to the motor. Included the audio so
you can see and hear the ON vs OFF.
TEST 4 (http://inexistence.web.aplus.net/misc/NVFX35mm_grain_test_004.mov)


Vignette test. Pretty close to edge to edge brightness on a 24/36mm target.
Could use some improvement but, I'm not worried about it. My fault on the
sharpness quality, I was too close to my cat.
http://inexistence.web.aplus.net/misc/NVFX35mm_vignette_test.jpg

[Daniel Schaumberger]

I like the color-tones of TEST Clip 2 they are great.

Daniel

[Inexistence]

Thanks Daniel! The DVX is really nice right out of the box.

Here's some new outdoor footage that I shot around 11am daylight. I goofed
the focusing on a few shots but, you get the idea. All shots color corrected/leveled
for a neutral look.

Please download only! Thanks!!!
NVFX35mm test footage (http://inexistence.cc/misc/NVFX35mm_demo_001.mov)


Edit: I forgot to post my scene file settings, I'll do that when I get home.

[Car3o]

Inex, have you tried the LCD screen material yet?

-Rh

[Inexistence]

yes and no actually:( it's a very flimsy material and I couldn't find a way for
it to sit completely flat. I can send you the material if you'd like. I think the
diffusion is right though.

[Car3o]

yes and no actually:( it's a very flimsy material and I couldn't find a way for
it to sit completely flat. I can send you the material if you'd like. I think the
diffusion is right though.

what kind is it? i used double sided tape. i put the tape on the motor side and it seemed to hold in there real well. i'm trying to bid on the V551 phones on ebay, because that was a great screen. I just wished I had never tried to clean it with a cleaner.

[Inexistence]

I thought I'd film something that was vastly more entertaining than trees in a
park so I took the adapter out to the harbor and filmed a street performer named
Tommy Buckets. He has a few misc clips on youtube if anyone is interested.
He's is a mean effin' drummer!

The footage is CC to a nice blueish green and I finally ran out of battery power
for my motor after months of using it without recharging it. I ended up
having to film Tommy with a motionless screen but, it still turned out pretty
nice. I like the image that this adapter is turning out despite what everyone
says about the Beattie bokeh.

This was shot in extremely low light around 6pm. I found the image to be
nice and bright on the DVX lcd and it was still hard to focus. Not to mention
the upside down image. Argh!!!

It'll be uploaded in a few minutes.

[Inexistence]

Alright so my I can't upload this video for some reason so it'll have to wait for
tomorrow. In the meanwhile here are a couple of grabs instead.

http://inexistence.web.aplus.net/misc/NVFX35mm_TommyBuckets_001.jpg
http://inexistence.web.aplus.net/misc/NVFX35mm_TommyBuckets_002.jpg
http://inexistence.web.aplus.net/misc/NVFX35mm_TommyBuckets_003.jpg
http://inexistence.web.aplus.net/misc/NVFX35mm_TommyBuckets_004.jpg
http://inexistence.web.aplus.net/misc/NVFX35mm_TommyBuckets_005.jpg

[Car3o]

you going to do the LCD material soon? i want to compare mine with yours. see if i'm doing something wrong. the amount of grain with the beetie off is the same with mine on, using the LCD material of course.

[Inexistence]

Maybe. I'm not sure at this point. It's yours if you want it... free! I kinda want to
explore the Beattie for now and then work my way into alternate materials. It's
tremedously more expensive as the tradeoff for more light though. Did you win
the V551's yet? I think the material in the cell phone is considerably different
than the film in monitors. I could be wrong... dunno?

and here's my scene file settings...

Detail +3
V Detail +7
Coring -7
Chroma -4
Phase 0
Temp 0
Mas Ped 0
Cinelike D
Skin DTL Off
V Detail Freq Thin

[Car3o]

where did you get your material? i've got a few on watch, but nothing sold yet.

[Inexistence]

PM'd ya

[Inexistence]

just a few shots from lastnight that I promised for today.

NVFX35mm w/Tommy Buckets (http://inexistence.cc/misc/NVFX35mm_TommyBuckets.mov)

[sunriseseagull]

Hi Inexistence,

Are you using your adapter with the Leica M lenses?

Thanks!

[Inexistence]

sunriseseagull, i have atest mule Cossina 40 1.4 for right now with a few Lieca M
lenses on the way...

Now that the holidays are over I can get back to my adapter. I noticed a bit of
smearing and ghosting on this image that I've tried to diagnose. The ghosting
was caused by a DVX focus error on my part. The smearing is a different case
all together which a larger diameter achro should fix.

More footage to come.

http://inexistence.web.aplus.net/NF/DVX_focus_error.jpg

[sunriseseagull]

Thanks, Inexistence!


I was told that the Leica M serries lenses were not possible to attach on any 35mm adapter. Please let me know the results when you got your Leica M lenses! Thanks!

[Inexistence]

I was told that the Leica M serries lenses were not possible to attach on any 35mm adapter.


Where did you hear this? I'm curious. The Cossina & Leica M mounts are interchangable as far as know.

[sunriseseagull]

I was in the market for an adapter myself and have a friend who has a set of Leica M lenses. But as far as I know, M2, Letus35, SGpro,... neither of them supports Leica M lenses (with the exception that the SGpro supports Leica R lenses). Please correct me if I'm wrong. Thanks!

[Inexistence]

My fault. I get what ya mean.
The back focus distance is pretty short for M mounts. 27.8mm to be exact. I wonder if the M2 guys could manufacture a short M mount to accomodate?

http://www.redrockmicro.com/cartpics/lensmountthumb.jpg

[sunriseseagull]

Yeah, I'm still hoping someone would make such adapter for M mount.

BTW, so are you using your M lenses with your adapter?

Thanks!

[Car3o]

Inex,

Did you cnc this yourself? Or send it off?
And your pics on the first page are down. Able to put them back up?

-Rh

[rawfa]

The first footage you posted looks pretty sharp and grain free. Any chance we can see some full scale footage to evaluate this better?

Are you planning to sell this adapter or are you building it just for fun for your self?

[Inexistence]

Car3o, it was a stereolithography piece. The plastic is extremely durable. Expensive
though for individual 3d prints.

rawfa, I have some extreme low light footage that I'll try to upload soon. As far as
selling it I might be up to building some custom units. I can't see myself selling
a whole bunch because there are cheaper better alternatives... nikon lens and
Daniel's vibrating combo seems to be a great deal.

I'm actually working on an HD version now and that might be a few weeks off
from today. I'd like to couple it with the Canon HV20 in April.

[Car3o]

Inex,

Who did you have machine it?

[Inexistence]

http://www.rpc.msoe.edu/images/sla5000.gif

This isn't the exact machine that was used but, its the same
process of building an object from 3d data by creating extremely
thin layers of liquid plastic. There are a number of houses who
can perform the build for you.

It's good for prototyping and that's about it. Like I said before
it's pretty expensive; still somewhat reasonable. Would never
use the polymers as a production material though. I think most
people would prefer more exotic materials & construction like the
Brevis or one of Dan's Felix devices.

I'd like to build one using nothing but aluminum myself. There is
actually a process that can take the plastic piece and apply a metal
coating of sorts. I have not explored this route yet.

With Red, SI, and VRI models availble for rent 35mm adapts might become
a thing of the past. I'm still going to pursue a smaller adapter for
personal use though. I know I won't have the money or enough
experience to handle a Phantom 65 or Red at the moment.