View Full Version : Grabs of DIY Kino in action.
STYLZ
12-07-2006, 07:14 PM
Don't know what you would call this light, as I did'nt build it. Busted out the dvx to see how the light looked. All lights in room are off in these grabs, except the diy light. I thought it turned out pretty good (the quality of the light). So for anyone who is wondering...
enjoy.
http://www.dvxuser6.com/uploaded/7995/1165543571.jpg
http://www.dvxuser6.com/uploaded/7995/1165543588.jpg
http://www.dvxuser6.com/uploaded/7995/1165543644.jpg
http://www.dvxuser6.com/uploaded/7995/1165543602.jpg
http://www.dvxuser6.com/uploaded/7995/1165543620.jpg
http://www.dvxuser6.com/uploaded/7995/1165543635.jpg
http://www.dvxuser6.com/uploaded/7995/1165543653.jpg
mcgeedigital
12-07-2006, 07:29 PM
Not bad at all!
Now, just build an egg crate to get rid of some of the spill and you'll be in business!
STYLZ
12-08-2006, 05:31 AM
Oh there are "egg crates" on there. Only maybe 1/2 inch deep crates, but you can plainly see them in 2 of the light shots.
Alecks Purifoy
12-08-2006, 04:28 PM
Thats cool.
Exelent work man
what types of cfl bulbs are those?
STYLZ
12-09-2006, 11:27 PM
They are 60 watts each. They only draw 13 watts each though.
TeamJoeDawn
12-12-2006, 10:05 AM
What is the point of eggcrate, and how could you make your own? I think this idea of multiple standard-socket flourescents is excellent..
What would be the drawback to placing the bulbs closer in order to make it smaller/more portable?
J
Not bad at all!
Now, just build an egg crate to get rid of some of the spill and you'll be in business!
Mike McNeese
12-12-2006, 11:24 AM
Egg crate should be more like 2" deep. It keeps the light going in one direction, and helps to control spill. Think of it as a bunch of tiny fixed barn doors.
Larry Rutledge
12-12-2006, 11:26 AM
Where can "egg crate" be purchased? Can it be made very easily?
STYLZ
12-12-2006, 07:33 PM
I'm preety sure they got them from Home Depot. They used the stuff you buy to put over flourecent lights like you see in an office. Like I said they were only 1/2 inch deep or so. Do they sell them deeper, I would assume so.
I ran across a light box a few weeks ago when I was looking at the Britek cool lights. It's basically an 8 inch box (very professionally manufactured) with 9 screw in ceramic sockets that accomodate 9 100watt output/23 watt draw flouresent bulbs (as shown in the original pics here and purcahsed at Home Depot). I couldn't resist, for $89.95 I couldn't buy the components or make it that well.
Anyhow here is the Ebay address or item number.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=ADME:B:EOIBSAA:US:11&Item=160054227930
Item Number 160054227930
By the way they also make a 16 socket version for about $150.00. They are great people to work with.
Gary
By the way, I don't sell these things or am I trying to promote them. It's just cheaper and better than I could make.
Gary
JasonFox
12-15-2006, 04:10 PM
That's pretty cool. Fashion some barn doors for them and go. Not highly controllable, but much better than the DIY junk I've got now.
I don't think they're meant to be controllable, they are pretty shadowless. They do offer a softbox attachment for about $50.00 though.
Gary
DavidD
12-29-2006, 09:12 AM
Can we get a part list for this? Great idea!
Ryan Patrick O'Hara
02-06-2007, 07:29 AM
Does this count as a kino? Looks more like a soft box to me.....
I guess technically they are flouresent.... I also agree, i didnt see the egg crate (plastic grid for spill) until you mentioned it. I assumed that was light grid diffusion and i was seeing the grid from the fiber in the diffusion paper....
Now that I see that, what diffusion are you using and how many stops do you lose?
TeamJoeDawn
02-20-2007, 06:50 PM
Can someone supply a wiring diagram for this, someone who is an electrician or has access to one? I don't want to kill myself.
J
Cool Lights
02-20-2007, 09:18 PM
Can someone supply a wiring diagram for this, someone who is an electrician or has access to one? I don't want to kill myself.
J
Yes, no assisted suisides please! It's really not that hard though. You'll use E26 sockets and they have colored screws on the bottom of them usually. Gold and Silver colored. Just make sure that you are consistent and wire the nickel (silver) leads together with the white (hot) wires in series and the brass (gold) leads together with the black (neutral) wires in series. Then on the terminal end you attach your power cord black and white to the other black and whites. The green from the power cord is your ground and would be attached to a chassis if you have one. The foam core housing shown in the example is not metal so no possibility for a chassis ground.
In other words, the sockets are wired in a chain, one after another all on the same wire if possible. White wire on the Silver of socket one to silver of socket two, etc. Then black wire to brass of socket one on to brass of socket two, etc.
Green can't really go anywhere in a non-metal chassis... Hope this helps. Be careful and it should go without saying. Don't have it plugged in while you're wiring or there will be crying involved... :crybaby: Don't even plug it in until you are sure you were consistent with the wiring.
In fact, don't put in the bulbs in the beginning. This is where having a volt-ohmeter would be great. You can check for a short before you ever plug it in. Measuring resistance across any one pair of silver and gold connections should yield infinite resistance--anything else is a short.
Then, just plug it in (without bulbs first) to make sure and see if everything's okay. Then unplug and put the bulbs in. Should work fine.
I should add again, I don't think foam core fixtures are a great idea though... Way too easy to get them all banged up and unusable before you know it--let alone the chassis ground issues involved.
armadillo
08-10-2008, 03:21 AM
I'd certainly be interested in seeing a bit of the "making of" for this unit.