Stabilizer under $20 and 45 minutes

[mainstreetprod]

I realize that suggesting you put a $5000 camera on a $20 homemade gadget
will be a bit controversial - but if you can get past the fact that it is a bunch of pipes screwed together and a barbell weight, I think you will be surprised what it can do. I found this thing on the 'net (where else) and thought I would give it a try before springing $3-$400 for a Glidecam (used to own one).
This is the video that convinced me:

http://www.cs.cmu.edu/~johnny/steadycam/girl3.mov

It was shot with a $300 Digital 8 camera atop the device. I built one like it, slightly heavier due to the size and weight of the HVX, mounted it and gave it a try. My footage looked just as smooth, going up and down steps, running with the camera, etc. I found it much more controllable than the Glidecam and just as smooth. Total weight of the rig is about 10 pounds. If anyone is interested, I will post my own footage and
details on how I modified the device for the HVX.:thumbup:

Fred


http://patchworkprimers.com/_wp_generated/pp71449d09.png

[pmpworks]

Yes, post footage. However I seriously doubt you can get very steadi shots with that. Also, why did you say you used to have a glidecam, and this is better? There's no gimbal, hence no floating camera. You should have kept the glidecam.:huh:

[Lenilenapi]

I'm interested and not so suspicious either. Don't delete.

[siniarch]

Hey Fred,
would love to see footage and also footage of you using the unit. and maybe some close up photos of your unit. If you have a chance please post these, as it would be great help to all of us looking for a solution to moving shots.
Thanks,
Luis

[mainstreetprod]

Thanks for the kinder replies. I can understand why this would be hard to believe, so I will shoot some footage tomorrow with and without the device for comparison, and end the shot looking at a mirror so you can see I am using it. In the meantime, check out these pages by the designer who has an engineering degree, and often gets flack about the device himself:

http://www.cs.cmu.edu/~johnny/steadycam/suggestions.html

http://www.cs.cmu.edu/~johnny/steadycam

[PaPa]

I found it much more controllable than the Glidecam and just as smooth. Total weight of the rig is about 10 pounds. If anyone is interested, I will post my own footage and
details on how I modified the device for the HVX.:thumbup:

Fred


http://patchworkprimers.com/_wp_generated/pp71449d09.png



HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

lol
ROFLMFAO!!!!!!!

okay there buddy...


Now that this is out of my systemn

this device is something my buddy built as well from seeing int online.

and let me tell you, this thing, no matter how good hte operator, will NEVER perform as well as a glidecam

do me this k?

1) run up stairs
2) stick it out of a moving car
3) run along side someone

need i go on?

no gimble, no balance. It is merely adding weight ot hte contraption, increasing its inertia.

Granted, if someone were being rolled in a wheel chair, and had someoen sitting in it holding one of these, then MAYBE you could get close.





Also. Not to come off to offensive, but this is just a rediculous statement that it can provide the same results as a glidecam.

That video of the girl walking is fulllllll of bounce and shake, can achieve something similar if i swung my arm down and walked with her holding the camera from its top grip.

take a look at this footage, and realize the difference.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Owlx13xCjCg

[mainstreetprod]

OK, here's my footage shot today, what do you think?

http://web.mac.com/mainstreetprod/iWeb/Mainstreet/Blank.html

I don't know about your Glidecam, but this works as well as mine did
(owned it several years ago). Maybe not as well as a $3K vest system,
but definitely as well as my Glidecam.



HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

lol
ROFLMFAO!!!!!!!

okay there buddy...


Now that this is out of my systemn

this device is something my buddy built as well from seeing int online.

and let me tell you, this thing, no matter how good hte operator, will NEVER perform as well as a glidecam

do me this k?

1) run up stairs
2) stick it out of a moving car
3) run along side someone

need i go on?

no gimble, no balance. It is merely adding weight ot hte contraption, increasing its inertia.

Granted, if someone were being rolled in a wheel chair, and had someoen sitting in it holding one of these, then MAYBE you could get close.





Also. Not to come off to offensive, but this is just a rediculous statement that it can provide the same results as a glidecam.

That video of the girl walking is fulllllll of bounce and shake, can achieve something similar if i swung my arm down and walked with her holding the camera from its top grip.

take a look at this footage, and realize the difference.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Owlx13xCjCg

[PaPa]

alright.

The only conclusion i can get from watching the footage is that, actually more of a question.

When you had your glidecam, was it in perfect balance?

If your glidecam had a gimble, how is it that your footage had as much rocking and shaking as thi footage?

How did you hold your glidecam? ( one hand on the handle and two fingers from your other hand just below the gimble to guide it? )

No way to get your glidecam back huh?

[siniarch]

Hey Fred,
Looks pretty good. would love to see a less compressed version of the footage. And by the way I wasn't skeptical about it. In fact I'm very interested in knowing how you made your adapter. photos would be great.
thanks,
Luis

[pmpworks]

OK, here's my footage shot today, what do you think?
:zombie_smiley: sorry dude, but that was terrible. Try the same shot and just hold the top handle on the HVX and see if you can get a better shot. The only thing you are doing is adding weight to the camera, your arm will get very tired from holding that up while shooting. I'm not trying to put you down, just my honest opinion of the video and device you are using. Now, if you make some sort of gimbal and mount to it you will be getting closer, but also putting strain on your wrist. That may be why you had trouble with the glidecam. I tried just using a sled I made when I got my HVX and it really wore my arm out so I built and arm and vest to support it. Good Luck!

[mainstreetprod]

Terrible? What would the same footage look like if shot handheld at eye level?

I have to admit though, that the same footage shot holding the camera by the handle at waist level looks smoother than I thought it would. And a lot less weight. Kinda difficult to frame up a subject though with a waist level camera.

After looking at the Glidecam video link someone posted, I can see the Glidecam does a better job of keeping the camera absolutely level. There is a tradeoff though, not as easy to tilt down, etc.

For $20 I think this device is a good way to improve some shots. The $400 difference will buy a nice Century wide angle lens. Which will make the results look even smoother. I'll take the lens.






:zombie_smiley: sorry dude, but that was terrible. Try the same shot and just hold the top handle on the HVX and see if you can get a better shot. The only thing you are doing is adding weight to the camera, your arm will get very tired from holding that up while shooting. I'm not trying to put you down, just my honest opinion of the video and device you are using. Now, if you make some sort of gimbal and mount to it you will be getting closer, but also putting strain on your wrist. That may be why you had trouble with the glidecam. I tried just using a sled I made when I got my HVX and it really wore my arm out so I built and arm and vest to support it. Good Luck!

[siniarch]

hi pmp works. any chance you can put photos of your arm and vest and describe how long it took you to make?
Thanks.

[pmpworks]

hi pmp works. any chance you can put photos of your arm and vest and describe how long it took you to make?
Thanks.

Sure, I already posted here a while back so if you go to my site (http://www.pmpworks.com) or homebuiltstabilizers.com (http://www.homebuiltstabilizers.com) you can see picture's and video from my setup. I recently modded the rear springs a little on my arm so they look a little different now, but not much.

Fred, I'm sorry but I've got to say something about your statement here:

The $400 difference will buy a nice Century wide angle lens. Which will make the results look even smoother. I'll take the lens. A new lens for your camera will not make your shots look smoother, as in floating like a steadicam, but if your mainly shooting from sticks or run and gun stuff then yes by all means buy yourself a new lens. I personally have decided to perfect my shooting before buying anymore accesories for my cam, but to each his own.:beer:

[plainman007]

I saw this asian engineers site demonstrating his DIY steadycam several months ago. I have seen all the videos posted on his site and shud admit its darn close to a professional stablizer. But id say close. Odcourse it may not match exactly in facilities. But for godsake its only $14 or maybe a little extra. About the physics behind the system i will refuse to say hes just adding weight to the camera. Its actually a disguised gyro sorta design. The weight falling much lower than the camera basically offsets the cams center of gravity. Which makes all the difference. Now if you had a fluid wrist. You could manevour this thing really well. The shot where he walks with the girl into the library. Yes a steady handed cam man can hold the cam at waist level and do that. But can he achieve the smoothness he gets when he ascends the staircase ? Definitely not. The $14 model does notably well during that starcase move even tilting and following. I cud hardly see any footstep jerks while ascending the stairs. Hmm but not arguing here. Im actually planning to make one. And yes gimbals can help and disrupt certain scenes. It has its own plus and minus points. But anyway im no expert but wanted to chime in this much because its a physics based issue and im in the rig design dept of the live events industry. So just wanted to share my experience.

[plainman007]

mainstreet > how are you tilting upwards and downwards for your shots with this ?

[PaPa]

Terrible? What would the same footage look like if shot handheld at eye level?

I have to admit though, that the same footage shot holding the camera by the handle at waist level looks smoother than I thought it would. And a lot less weight. Kinda difficult to frame up a subject though with a waist level camera.

After looking at the Glidecam video link someone posted, I can see the Glidecam does a better job of keeping the camera absolutely level. There is a tradeoff though, not as easy to tilt down, etc.

For $20 I think this device is a good way to improve some shots. The $400 difference will buy a nice Century wide angle lens. Which will make the results look even smoother. I'll take the lens.


this is not true man.

i have done many many man shots where i use my glidecam on a tilted axis and shoot completely that style, instead of having the camera level.

there is a shot there where i boom down to a folded shirt, that is just an example.

it is very easy to tilt/dutch with the glidecam, and get smooth looking footage even in motion, walking, running, with the shot staying completely level and smooth.

just need a bit of practice

[pmpworks]

Its actually a disguised gyro sorta design
That's pretty funny :thumbup:

[siniarch]

thanks for the link pmp. I've checked out the homebuiltstabelizer's web site before, I actually even bought the book. Do you know of anyone that built their stabilizer and made a manual (or better a video) of how to put one together with assembly parts? I would love to build one. Unfortunately, I don't have access to a milling machine. I can only imagine that I could put stock parts together and try to build one myself. but I know this is a complicated endeavor.
It would be great to come up with a compromise from the $20 system and the 4-9k system. I would definetly need a supporting arm since my rig just got to the 15lb mark with the M2 adapter and I haven't even put an on board monitor.
I just don't have the 4k for this tool. :(

[mainstreetprod]

mainstreet > how are you tilting upwards and downwards for your shots with this ?

Right hand holds just below the "T" fitting. It is easy to tilt up or down
since the balance point is there. When doing a combo tilt/pan, left hand
controls it.

I now have a less compressed version of the footage at the same link.

[pmpworks]

thanks for the link pmp. I've checked out the homebuiltstabelizer's web site before, I actually even bought the book. Do you know of anyone that built their stabilizer and made a manual (or better a video) of how to put one together with assembly parts? I would love to build one. Unfortunately, I don't have access to a milling machine. I can only imagine that I could put stock parts together and try to build one myself. but I know this is a complicated endeavor.
It would be great to come up with a compromise from the $20 system and the 4-9k system. I would definetly need a supporting arm since my rig just got to the 15lb mark with the M2 adapter and I haven't even put an on board monitor.
I just don't have the 4k for this tool

I don't know of any videos, but as far as cost goes, it ain't cheep. Of course you already know what commercial systems cost (thousands) and there is a reason for that. It all really depends on what your plans are. Myself I plan on using my rig to make enough money for a steadicam. I think the homebuilt systems are a great way to go when your on a budget, or if your able to do things like that. If I couldn't have built one I would have went with a DVRig Pro (not a steadicam). Simple design but really seems to work well, other than that you might get lucky and someone will sell you their homebuilt arm if they are making a new one, but most homebuilders won't sell. The guy that runs the site at HBS is building one hell of a complete rig, designed after a steadicam, he will be selling a book with plans when it's done. I'm pretty sure it will have CAD drawings in it so if you want to have it built by a machinist you can. Good Luck!:beer:

[PaPa]

i got my glidecam 2000 pro for 175 US from the marketplace on this forum, came with the forarm brace as well..

i concider that fucking cheap as hell for its perfectly smooth shooting.

[hoofandmouf]

I gaffed a couple 2.5 lb weights to the bottom of a little bogen tripod.... it was ghetto but it worked....

I've used the glidecam and although its slighty better than this extreme DIY approach.... it aint THAT much better

basically, if you want ULTRA smooth floating footy.... become a steadicam op or hire one.... now, you might not need ULTRA smooth for your story, ghetto smooth might cut it.... if thats the case, just duct tape or gaff tape some weights to the bottom of a little piece of sh*t tripod

I'd skip the glidecam (faux steadicam)..... of course, if one was given to me (with the smooth shooter vest) I'd use it in a heart beat.... but I wouldnt drop hundreds of bucks on one cuz IMO its just not worth it

[PaPa]

"'ve used the glidecam and although its slighty better than this extreme DIY approach.... it aint THAT much better"

how can you even justify a statement like that. You obviously have no idea then how to correctly use a glidecam.

i started off trying to be none judgemental and just questioning your reasons, but now im starting to get frustrated at your remarks which are completely unjust seeing as you find the differenec between a home built and a real glidecam as you say, not that much better.

fact remains

you cant say the glidecam is a faux steadicam, i have used it plentiful, and i can achieve with it shots as smooth as a dolly.

This will NEVER be achieved with something like adding weights t oa tripod.

Stop thinking how you perceive it as quailty wise, and start thinking physics.

it does not make sense, you can practice and practice, but boy, try running next to someone at full speed.

on my glidecam, i acn zoom it to 75 and still retain a perfectly stable image... running.

i will gladly post proof of this to finally shut down this whole idea that a homebuilt stabilizer is as a good as a true stabilizer.

Do everyone here a favor, take your home built stabilizer, go outside, zoom your camera in, or no, keep yours zoomed out, start running down the street and record the footage.

ill do the same with the glidecam, but ill zoom mine in to 75, ill try to go even higher, and ill run as damn fast as i can with it in my hands, this will put this discussion to rest.

the 20$ hombuilt thing is a stabilizer, not a steadicam or a glidecam, it adds weight wihch adds to its inertia simply making it heavier so that your body absorbs more of the shock.

the point of a glidecam or steadicam is having a gimble which isolates the camera from any body movement or influence. No matter how hard you try this little device will never reach what a gildecam can produce. If all your ever going to be doing with a steadicam is toe to toe slow walking approaches with the camera, than yeah, i guess strapping some weights onto the bottom of a tripod is a great and quick solution, but please, clarify the difference between stating what the 20$ diy construction can do similar results to a glidecam,. IN certain conditions.

[jgastelb]

I'm with Papa on this one. A friend of mine is a certified steadicam operator and I'm amazed on how steady the shots are. Without the gimbal you're missing the whole point of it.
Jgastelb

[Bob Hill]

I am definitely from the school of "whatever works for you is fine" but I have to agree with the need for a proper gimbal. For giggles I made up a rig like you have and it doesn't really compare to one that uses a gimbal. I doesn't cost that much more to add a proper gimbal and it is so very worth it. If memory serves I was able to put together a simple one from McMaster for around $35 that would fit on a rig similar to yours. Anyway, if you want help on upgrading the rig you have put together you can find it at www.homebuiltstabilizers.com (http://www.homebuiltstabilizers.com) or feel free to pm me. Here is pic of my completely DIY rig that I was able to put together with the tremendous help from the guys over there and it only cost me about $725 in parts and materials for everything (Note: I do have my own machine shop)


Bob
http://www.dvxuser6.com/uploaded/14894/1164834000.jpg

[siniarch]

Hey Bob,
I sure would love to pick your brain as to how I can make me one of these little puppies. How come you spent $725? does that include the monitor and vest and all. How much do you think it would cost for all the metal for the arm & the sled. and the vest?
What machines did you use? I have drill press, miter saw grinding wheel but no shop. Just a garage. :)
Thanks

[Bob Hill]

siniarch,
The $725 was for all the materials including the monitor, 2 battery packs, low mode bracket (not pictured), and the stand. Costs for all the bearings, metal and plastic used in the arm, sled and vest was about $510. The monitor at $160 was the most expensive part followed by the $85 bearing in the gimbal (ABEC7 rated and soooo worth it).

As for the tools that I used:

Small knee mill
Very small lathe (19" bed)
Metal cutoff/band saw
Heat gun for forming the vest
Soldering Iron for wiring in the sled and making the battery packs
Tap handle with appropriate taps
Various files
Dial calipers
Machinist's square


As I recommended before, everyone should really check out homebuiltstabilizers.com. There are a number of rigs there that are put togther with just a drill press that you can check out but do feel free to pm me if you have questions or are looking for sources for parts and materials. Eventually I will have all that information up on my webpage for everyone.

Bob

[pmpworks]

Bob, Really like the look of your rig, I'm planning on building a new arm and was curious, is your's like Cody Deegan's arm or is there just 1 spring in there?

[Bob Hill]

pmpworks,

My arm uses a single spring and I can adjust both the tension and the angle of the spring. I actually have 2 spring sets, one to fly light loads like just the HVX200 and accessories and one to fly a Varicam with all the accessories.

Bob

[mikkowilson]

Ok, I'm goign to clear a few things up here.
I am a Certified Steadicam operator, and I've flown everythign from an XL1 on a tripod with a old battery onteh bottom for counterwieght, a home built rig I built with only hand tools and a power-drill for $60, and now I Own a Steadicam Archer and Steadicam Merlin. I've also been operating a Steaidcam Flyer for years and I've flown almost every rig presented at IBC or NAB in the past few years too.


First off, Bob, as I've said before on HBS, nice build :)

Secondly: PaPa is right.

That $14thing is a perfect example of how anyone can post any BS they want on the internet and somehoem pople will belive them. The system does add distributed weight to the camera, makign a little more resistant to movement, however there's no gimble, adn it's evne built out of Balance, so you can't evne hold it loosly as it TIRES to pull itself off level - as clearly demonstrated by the attrocious horizons in that earlier clip.

If you want a Steadicam shot, use a Steadicam ... or a knockoff like the Glidecam that as demonstrated, can do a prety damn good job too.

A Steadicam gives you MORE freedom then other camera mounts, because the camera is balanced and free to move, you can tilt, pan, roll it at seemingly impossibel angles if you want. This due to the same total isolation that allows the operator to move freely without disturbing the camera.

With Steadicam the camera just moves, smoothly with NO shake. Unlike that $14, and many other attrocious demo video online. Sorry but your video through the house and garage wasn't very godo either. I can do prety much the same job with a handheld camera.

Yes $4k is a lot of money. But it's still not enoguh for a quality fully featured Steadicam (or similar) system for DV cameras.

The cheapest way to get quality Steadicam? Hire an operator.
Dependign on the project, you can get a operator for anything over about 800/day with top notch gear and the experience required to use it.


If you want Steadicam shots, you will need a Steadicam.

- Mikko

[pmpworks]

:thumbup: you the man Mikko!:dankk2:
Bob, thanks for the info, do you have any pics of your adjusters you'd like to share? If not that's fine, I just can't figure out the best way to make em.

Oh yea..Mikko, your link to your old rig on HBS is down, thought you might want to know.

[Bob Hill]

pmpworks,

I'll post drawing of the wrists later so you can see how the angle adjustment works. It is very straightforward.

Bob

[pmpworks]

Thanks, that would be great!

[Bob Hill]

Here is drawing of roughly what I did for the tension/angle adjustment. Being able to control both the angle and tension lets you set the ride of the rig very well. I was able to get away with smaller diameter threaded rod by using tool steel that I hardened. If you are going to use off the shelf rod plan on going with a larger diameter.

Bob

http://www.dvxuser6.com/uploaded/14894/1164901579.jpg

[charles]

A very inspirational steadicam Set up Bob. Realy nice. A true reverse approach to the steadicam 3A design. :) I like it. May I ask where is the second cable going over the pully, attached to?
Are you thinking of anodizing your arm? It's worth it considering the beautiful adjustable design of it. :)

[pmpworks]

Bob, that is a great design, I don't think I've ever seen anything like that. I may very well be set on making one like yours. It looks like your cables might be attached to the adjusters by an eyelet? or loop? held by a screw? My sled weighs apx. 17lbs do you recommend a certain spring?
Thanks again, great drawing.
Patrick:dankk2:

[charles]

Patrick, what sled do you have, if you don't me asking?

Bob, it's a pity there is already a patent for that design others you could have market it ;)

[Bob Hill]

Hiya Charles. Nice to see you away from the HBS board ;) The cables both attach to the blocks that are threaded for adjustment. I made up a compression clamp arrangement in the blocks to hold things securely(it can hold at least 850lbs). As for the design being unique it truly isn't. I stole/borrowed it not from a camera arm but from a lift assist arm used in the auto and paper industries circa 1930. They used something like this to move some pretty big parts precisely. As for anodizing, I plan on doing that shortly once I get more acid for my tanks. I'll post up on HBS as soon as I get that done.

Bob

[pmpworks]

Hi Charles, I think you may have seen my sled before....
http://www.dvxuser6.com/uploaded/17254/1164907913.jpg
:happy:
Bob, thanks, I think I understand now. Maybe if you do anodize your arm and have to take it apart you could snap a picture or two of your adjusters.:dankk2:

[charles]

Hiya Charles. Nice to see you away from the HBS board ;) The cables both attach to the blocks that are threaded for adjustment. I made up a compression clamp arrangement in the blocks to hold things securely(it can hold at least 850lbs). As for the design being unique it truly isn't. I stole/borrowed it not from a camera arm but from a lift assist arm used in the auto and paper industries circa 1930. They used something like this to move some pretty big parts precisely. As for anodizing, I plan on doing that shortly once I get more acid for my tanks. I'll post up on HBS as soon as I get that done.

Bob

I do check these forums sometimes. ;) Yeah I think I know of the device you are referring to. Steadicam uses a similiar design but like I said it's pretty much reverse mode. The priciple is the same. I still love it but like I said the vertical style adjustment is still patented.

Hey Patrik, of course I have. There are so many on HBS it's hard to keep track :) Please forgive me.

[Robban E.]

Wow bob and Patrik, that is very good steadycam. you guys have done a good job. Wow! I guess Charles was right, when he said it takes time and patience. Yes Charles I read the HBS 101. Very good advice. Thank you. BTW, charles. I see you are flying a rig in your avatar. What rig is that? Is that your diy steadycam? And what's that thing on top? It looks like a circlcualr object.

[plainman007]

Hi Mainstreet,

Saw your footage. Awesome. Thats almost as good as some pro shots ive seen in million dollar budget movies. Youve succeeded ill take it. I wish you all the best. Remmember that thing about the bumble bee according to science is not supposed to fly ?? He contradicts all the known laws of aerodynamics and physics. But yet he continues to fly. Because the bumble doesnt know all those things about science and shit. He thought he has wings and so believed he can fly. And fly he does till today. That belief is most important in anything we attempt. Best wishes.

[Bob Hill]

Patrick,
I missed your question about springs. I get springs from a company called Century Spring and I would have to do the math to figure out what to use in your instance. BTW, my sled with just the camera runs right at 15lbs on the short shaft. Anyway, the geometry of the arm with the angle at maximum is roughly 3:1 so you could figure it out from there. The only part you'd have to guess is the addtional weight of the arm. Hopefully that helps.

Bob

[charles]

...I guess Charles was right, when he said it takes time and patience. Yes Charles I read the HBS 101. Very good advice. Thank you. BTW, charles. I see you are flying a rig in your avatar. What rig is that? Is that your diy steadycam? And what's that thing on top? It looks like a circlcualr object.


Robban, glad you read the HBS 101. I'm updating it slowly but surely. Thanks for the comment. As for my avatar, I'm flying the AR from MK-v. You can see more pics of me on the Segway and other goodies on the main site of HBS. The AR is a little difficult to handle than normal rigs but once you get the hand of it, the possiblities are endless. :) It's a whole different way of operating though but it was fun to have flown it.

[pmpworks]

Thanks Bob, that gives me some ideas.

[mikkowilson]

VERY nice arm design Bob.

Not really an "Iso Elastic" design, but a really really simple way of adjusting both Lift and and "Bouncyness" ("Iso-elasticity").

Simple = effective.

- Mikko

[Inoran]

i made one of these last year and they are anything but steady. the biggest use you get out of these are the fact that you can use them to get extended shots from up high or down low like a boom pole only with a camera.

[cmostech]

I just watched the music video of Brad and Funny enough I just shot a TV show called "The Remix" in Nashville and he was the guest!

[waefre]

I don't think these types of devices should be written off so quickly. While they don't allow a true floating camera due to the lack of gimbal and offset balance they do provide a shift in the center of rotation as well as some much needed weight for a lighter camera. A major problem with this model is the steel piping. Having the weight distributed throughout the device doesn't add much to the stabilization. You need the weight low and out to the sides to reduce side to side rotation. Heavy pipes only makes for tired arms. I made a similar device a good while back using a monopod and a Tbar with weight on the ends. While not as smooth these style devices do let you have a lot more control as everything lies in the wrist while a gimbal requires constant concentrated monitoring to make the very precise and beautiful turns. I also find these types of devices are easier to use for long periods of time then a handheld stedicam, The monopod design allows you to plant the base and give your forearm a rest and can also held high overhead to get interesting crane type shots. Basically its great for event type functions. Is it a Stedicam replacement? No. But it has its purpose.
On another note I recently came up with my own version of the 20$ stabilizer which does use a gimbal and takes some pretty smooth shots. The secret to it all is thrift stores and rollerblade wheels. I'll post some pictures here.
http://www.dvxuser6.com/uploaded/2314/1174604321.jpg
http://www.dvxuser6.com/uploaded/2314/1174604256.jpg
http://www.dvxuser6.com/uploaded/2314/1174604209.jpg

[kyle.presley]

I built a "$14" stabilizer. It works, I've had it for years. Like any stabilizer it just takes practice.

[jmc]

Waefre, are you using any bearings on the connector to the rollerblade wheel? It appears you drilled holes into the wheel and attached it to a collar, but exactly how isn't clear. Can you draw it, or explain it a bit more?

[TeamJoeDawn]

On another note I recently came up with my own version of the 20$ stabilizer which does use a gimbal and takes some pretty smooth shots. The secret to it all is thrift stores and rollerblade wheels. I'll post some pictures here.
http://www.dvxuser6.com/uploaded/2314/1174604321.jpg
http://www.dvxuser6.com/uploaded/2314/1174604256.jpg
http://www.dvxuser6.com/uploaded/2314/1174604209.jpg

Nice looking rig. Looks similar to the rig described in the book "Killer DV Camera Rigs". Did you get inspiration from that book?

Its a great book, BTW.

J

[waefre]

Yeah a friend of mine built one using that book and I have to say I was hugely inspired by the rollerblade gimbal. So between that and homebuilt stabilizers.com I was able to throw together a very usable rig for around 20 bucks. Took me longer than 45 minutes though.

[TeamJoeDawn]

Yeah a friend of mine built one using that book and I have to say I was hugely inspired by the rollerblade gimbal. So between that and homebuilt stabilizers.com I was able to throw together a very usable rig for around 20 bucks. Took me longer than 45 minutes though.

Can you give us more details, specifically like your base, and the way that you mounted what appears to be an expandable pole (with detent pin)... is that what the holes in the side of your main pole is for? Extension?

Thanks for sharing, great pics.

J

[twocik23]

Nice DIY, like the rollerblade wheel !! However you might run into a few problems, not having a X & Y axis adjusting plate/screws.

[waefre]

It's actually more adjustable than it appears. The underside of the plate is hollow and on each end there are several rectangular weights underneath which are attached with a single bolt. This allows them to swing left or right to adjust the balance. Perhaps it's not an ideal system butt it's what I had on hand and it works pretty well.
http://www.dvxuser6.com/uploaded/2314/1174801889.jpg
The main bulk of this rig is actually made from an old pair of crutches I had from a different project. Crutches are a great source of aluminum because they're hardened and very light weight. This rig is made from the bottom part of the crutch. I'd hoped that having it put together by the pins would come in handy for the expanding to change the weight balance or just taking it apart quickly for travel but unfortunetly they join a little loosely which causes a slight jiggle when running full speed. I'm probably going to replace them with bolts which can be clamped down tightly. The bottom part of the crutch was filled with melted zinc so that it could be drilled and tapped to fit the plate at the bottom. The collar around the wheel does not use bearings and merely rotates on the screws. That did get me thinking though and I'm pretty sure I can incorporate some more bearings in the next version. The collar is just 3/4 off the end of a steel clamped down to make an oval shape.
http://www.dvxuser6.com/uploaded/2314/1174801787.jpg

[TeamJoeDawn]

Nice work! And nice detail explaining it, thanks for the great construction pics. All great pieces of advice for construction.

J

[TeamJoeDawn]

Waefre,

What did you use as the foot rail, the one that you put the weights in on the bottom?

J

[mainstreetprod]

"I built a "$14" stabilizer. It works, I've had it for years. Like any stabilizer it just takes practice".

I haven't used mine that much , but just looked at some footage I shot when first built - and to me, it still looks good. A lot better than a camera held by the handle, which some posters maintained would look just as good. On a scale of 1-10 with a real steadicam being a 10 and a Glidecam
2000 being say a 7, I would give it (with practice) a solid 5 in smoothness. Not perfect- but a lot of improvement for $14. Works especially well on stairs. Due to the weight I am going to build another
of PVC. And maybe try a rollerblade wheel gimble.

[waefre]

Ok so I posted a little bit of the test footage from my rig up to see. I'm still getting the hang of it and it suffers from the play at the bottom where the parts connect but otherwise its pretty decent stuff. Sorry about the Youtube quality but my webspace is a little overcrowded at the moment.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C8r6W78vpzQ

[jmc]

Nice! Thanks for the details.

Other than an occasional slight pendulum effect, I thought it looked really good for the price. I did notice a bit of jiggle in the running bit, but that was pretty dynamic motion anyway.

BTW, what did you use for the handle? Is it a wooden dowel, or some metal tubing?

[waefre]

Yeah, I've got a bit too much weight at the bottom which causes a swing every now and then. hopefully I'll find some smaller denominations for a better balance. The handle is also made from crutch tubing and has bearings inside which isolate the wrist action. I'm still tweaking and should have worked out the bugs soon.