Just received a new AC160-A yesterday

[pifemaster]

Hello everyone,

I just got a new AC160-A yesterday that I ordered from B&H. I am a wedding disc jockey located in Pittsburgh PA and I plan on using the camera to shoot highlight videos from wedding that I perform at. I have been using a Panasonic HDC-TM900 for the past few months and decided to upgrade to the AC160-A.

I am VERY new to HD video and am looking to learn as much as possible about the camera. The camera came with Barry Green's book (which is how I found this forum), and I have started reading it, but it is a lot to absorb. I saw a link to a downloadable video tutorial from Call Box. Has anyone purchased this and did you find it helpful? I am looking for very basic information at this point since I have virtually no knowledge in this area. Would this tutorial be advisable for a beginner. Are there any other tutorials that someone could reccommend?

Here are the items that I just purchased:

Panasonic AC160-A
Manfrotto MVH502A Head & 535 Carbon Fiber Tripod
Intellytech 312ASZ LED Video Light Kit

I ordered Adobe Creative Suite 6 Production Premium and will be using this to edit the videos.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thank you,
Robert Pfeifer
Pifemaster Productions
www.pifemaster.com (http://www.pifemaster.com)

[ChrisHarding]

Hi Robert

The Call Box video is great for explaining what does what on the camera instead of paging thru the manual ..at the price DVX users pay for it, grab a copy and watch it with your camera in your lap...he will explain what buttons do what but there is very little detail about moving further into any function so Barry's book then becomes your main tool!!! Call box will tell you what every button does and how to activate or set it but Barry's book will show you how to use it for best results!!

Chris

[NOA]

There is nothing better then to take the camera out and shoot as much as you can before even thinking about using it on a paid assignment, the 160 has a much steeper learning curve compared to the tm900 unless you trow it into full auto but that can result in some unpleasant surprises.
I have had Barry's book for my dvx100b and if the book for the 160 is written in the same way I would forget about it for the time being, first you need to get the basics under control and then you can use, like Chris said, Barry's book to get the best out of your camera.
I don't know about that callbox video but if it covers the basics of a semi-pro camera use that's your best starting point, that and hours and hours of worry-free filming untill you get paid for it, then you can start worrying to get it right the first time. :)

[Jan_Crittenden]

Hi Robert,

Welcome to the club.

You should have received a copy of Barry's Book in the box with your AC160. Take a few minutes to give it a read. You should find it very helpful.

Best,

jan

[pifemaster]

..at the price DVX users pay for it, grab a copy and watch it with your camera in your lap...Chris Chris, is there a discount code for DVX Users? If so, where can I find the code? I am very interested in this tutorial.

Thank you to everyone for the replies. I will mention that I am NOT planning on shooting video at weddings and charging the clients for the videos. My intention is to shoot the video and use it as a promotional tool. I create a blog post for many of the weddings I perform at and in years past, I would include photos that I captured at the event. I now will be including a "highlight video" that will show a brief overview of the wedding ceremony and/or reception.

I do not consider myself a professional videographer and would never want the client to rely on me to provide them with a high quality video from their once in a lifetime event.

Thank you,
Robert Pfeifer
Pifemaster Productions
www.pifemaster.com (http://www.pifemaster.com/)

[pifemaster]

You should have received a copy of Barry's Book in the box with your AC160. Take a few minutes to give it a read. You should find it very helpful. Jan,
I was very please that a copy of the book was included with the new camera. I have started to read through the book and it is very helpful, but some of the information is a little (ok... a lot) overwhelming. I am going to read as much of it as possible today and tomorrow and my next wedding is Saturday so I will get a chance to try things out at that time.


Thank you,
Robert Pfeifer
Pifemaster Productions
www.pifemaster.com (http://www.pifemaster.com/)

[pifemaster]

I found the discount code for the Call Box video. I just placed the order and I am downloading the videos as I type this. I think it will be a busy afternoon :-)

Thank you,
Robert Pfeifer
Pifemaster Productions
www.pifemaster.com (http://www.pifemaster.com/)

[Rod Pike]

Hi Robert,
I have also just received my 160A and Barry's book. I have also downloaded the call box video and am probably two days ahead of you on the learning curve (more like a vertical climb!). this is a complex professional camera and it is capable of comprehensive and quite complex set-ups. Patience and extensive "play-with time" is required to understand many of the functions and is definitely a necessary route.

I have been using Sony cameras for many years professionally and understand most of the basics. However, it is quite different in many ways. The extensive controls are everything any pro could ask for and requires patience to understand the inter-relationships. To this end as mentioned the Call box video shows the control and function layout and is good value for money. Treat it as your car handbook:Barry's superb book is the driving course! And this forum represents a global font of all knowledge on this camera and will be a source of constant learning. (I have already had some questions answered by members and Barry as well!)

I would also recommend downloading the Panasonic parts 1 and 2 manual from the disk, putting it on a usb memory stick, and getting both printed and wire spiral bound. I have just done this at a modest $25NZ and then you can keep it in your camera bag at all times. Having part 2 on a disk is a PITA!

So enjoy!
Rod

[kwkeirstead]

I found it very helpful to highlight sections in the printed Panasonic manual as I reached a stage where I thought I understood a particular feature. Then, another pass with a different colored pen as I later found that I did not quite understand something the first time around.

After four months, I still have not quite figured out what functions to assign to the three User buttons.

A few things worth IMO getting used to early on are:

1) load Barry's scene files so you can play with these. I like his FILMIC scene.

2) spend $10 on an SD -> USB plug and don't get into the habit of offloading content from the camera to a PC. Remove the SD, write-protect it immediately, put the SD in the SD to USB plug, then copy - If you try to copy objects directly off the camera, the temptation at the end of the copy is to delete things on the SD from the PC after you have copied files using a direct connection is too great.

3) if you decide to play around with VFR (160 only), don't forget that whereas your sound level indicator AND your headset will give you the impression that sound is being recorded, it is not. Look at the little symbol with the slash through it that warns you that sound is NOT being recorded.

4) leave Auto Zoom off, in case you inadvertently at startup start to turn the zoom ring manually. Not good for the camera !

5) at your own risk, decide whether the little plastic covers over the sound meters are troublesome to you and if yes, consider removing them. I have not found that they easily can shift position on their own.

6) find a thin cork washer and put this between the camera base and any quick release plate you keep mounted (I have had major issues with the usual single screw and single pin connection both with my Manfrotto fluid head quick release device AND with the one that comes with the Gliders Grey shoulder mount that I recently acquired). I cannot understand how badly designed these quick release devices are - maybe they can accommodate two screws instead of one?

7) leave the waveform screen on your LCD as much as you can. Convert the Viewfinder from color to black/white and turn on the red highlighting.

8) never leave the camera pointing (either end) in the sun.

9) never let the camera get out of your sight. (yes, for bringing it into restaurants, etc.) - I used to leave things lying around when I had my German Shepherd but, sadly, she passed away last December.



None of these are of my invention but just the result of many readings of Barry's book, the manual and posts at discussion groups here.

[Uran]

Robert Pfeifer, tell us in detail about real advantages of a new FAST AUTO FOCUS (How it works???) Whether it is necessary to upgrade old cameras to "A" for $300. We are waiting your memoirs!!

[Rod Pike]

Hi all, well I can tell you of my experience- Just a press of the "push auto" button and it's there instantly. With the red focus assist engaged there is no doubt about focus. Having just purchased the new ac160A I can't judge how it was before, But it works and works bloody well!. Whether it is worth $300 is for you guys to decide but I'm glad I have it. Now all I have to do is find a project that can utilise this Alladdin's cave of video gems that this little camera offers!
Cheers!
Rod

[Uran]

Pop Pike, Pressing of the "push auto" button and switching to "fast focus" works fixing or without fixing of mode "fast focus" How works this function after turning power OFF and then ON

[Rod Pike]

Hi Uran,
Forgive me if I have misunderstood your question, but turning the camera off and then back on doesn't affect the "push auto" function at all. Pressing the button snaps the lens to immediate focus just like an SLR camera.

[Barry_Green]

Note that there's also the magnified focus assist included in the upgrade. $300 gets you two upgrades -- the turbo push-auto focus, and the magnified focus assist.

The third upgrade on the AC160A is available through free download, that's the 1080/60p PS recording mode.

[andressaez]

Note that there's also the magnified focus assist included in the upgrade. $300 gets you two upgrades -- the turbo push-auto focus, and the magnified focus assist.

The third upgrade on the AC160A is available through free download, that's the 1080/60p PS recording mode.
When we then updated the option of updating our AC160 with $ 300? Save Barry?

[Jan_Crittenden]

Please know that the $300 upgrade is a policy that the US pursued. It may or may not be available in all countries. check with Panasonic to double check your options.

Best,

Jan

[Barry_Green]

Right, I should have mentioned that - the USA division is making available an upgrade path for customers who bought a USA-model 130 or 160. Other countries may or may not offer the same deal, or a different deal, or none at all. You will have to check in your country if outside the USA. And, of course, the upgrade probably won't be hOnored for gray-market imported cameras.

As for when it will be offered, I would have to defer to Jan, only she knows.

[sewolla]

Is the $300 upgrade available now in Los Angeles? If so I want to do it, ASAP.

[pifemaster]

Sorry for the delay in updating this post. I have been busy the past few days trying to configure a new PC that I ordered to edit my videos with.

Last week I did purchase and watch the Call Box video. I have to say that it was a life saver. The video went step by step through all of the buttons and menus on the 130/160. I would have spent weeks (or longer) trying to figure everything out on my own. Kudos to the guys at Call Box! I highly reccommend the video to anyone who owns either the 130/160.

Some background on my video abilities: I am a wedding disc jockey. Until April 2012, I have never even owned a video camera. In April, I purchased A panasonic consumer camcorder to take highlight videos at events that I DJ. I was fairly happy with the camera, but wanted something better - thus the 160-A. So, please take any of my opinions/comments with a grain of salt.

After watching the Call Box video on Thursday, I had a wedding on Saturday, so I had a chance to get my feet wet with the camera. I really love the 160-A. However, I am less than impressed with the auto focus on this camera. That may due to be my lack of knowledge on how to properly use it. Only time will tell for sure.

I do love that I have complete & easy access to pretty much every setting on the camera. The consumer camera required that you navigate deep within the menu to change almost anything.

The only thing I like better on the consumer camera was the auto focus. It seemed more suited to a novice such as myself.

As I type this post, I am rendering (on a different computer) the video that I shot at Saturday's wedding and I will put up a link as soon as I have it online to get feedback on what I can do to improve.

Thank you,
Robert Pfeifer
Pifemaster Productions
www.pifemaster.com (http://www.pifemaster.com/)

[sonuxxx]

SO it still pretty bad at Auto Focus? nothing improved on that ?

[pifemaster]

SO it still pretty bad at Auto Focus? nothing improved on that ? Unfortunately, I am a 100% novice at video cameras. I have no experience with the previous version, so I can not compare to it. Based on my own desires, I would like the auto focus to work a little better than it does.

Thank you,
Robert Pfeifer
Pifemaster Productions
www.pifemaster.com (http://www.pifemaster.com/)

[pifemaster]

OK everyone... It's critique time!

After getting my AC160-A last Wednesday, I had the opportunity to shoot some footage at a wedding on Saturday that I was the Disc Jockey at.

http://www.pifemaster.com/blog/shannopin-country-club-pittsburgh-stephen-corina-beatty-wedding/

Here are some of the details:

The Ceremony

Very sunny day with the ceremony taking place outside in direct sunlight at 4:00 pm
I set the camera up at the rear of the guests near the center aisle approximately 50 ft from the bride & groom.
I had a lav mic on the officiant that was amplified through my sound system. The speakers were approximately 40 feet behind me.
I used the internal mic on full auto & PCM audio.
Manual White balance. Since I did not have a white balance card, I used the white columns at front of ceremony to balance off of.
Had ND filter set to max at 1/64
Manual Iris set around f/4
Shutter Speed on auto
Focus on auto

The Reception

Reception indoors with windows on both sides of the room.
Again, used internal mic on full auto & PCM audio.
White balanced using 3200k preset. The room had all incandecent bulbs and I figured that would get me close enough especially since I was using LED color wash lighting on the dance floor that changed colors to the beat of the music.
Manual iris f stop varied, but mostly wide open.
As the room got darker +6 on the gain.
Shutter speed on auto.
Focus on auto.
I used an on camera LED light with variable lumen output and color adjustment set to 3200K.

The Render

I shot everything in 1080/60p - PS mode
Rendered to 1080/60P
Rendered using Sony Vegas & an older computer. (just order a new computer to run CS6 production premium)

One thing that I know I screwed up is during the start of the ceremony, I had the friction on my Manfrotto 502 head set way too loose. The slightest touch allowed the camera to move. I even tried to adjust the friction while recording and this added to the movement in the video. I will have to play with the adjustment to get it where it needs to be.

Also, notice at around 10:50 - 11:30 when I zoomed in, the auto focus got a little hoaky.

So... fire away. Let me know what I can do to improve. I want to learn & get better.

Thank you,
Robert Pfeifer
Pifemaster Productions
www.pifemaster.com (http://www.pifemaster.com/)

[The Irish TRex]

Nice work for your first time out. We're you DJ'ing while you were filming too? That's a lot to take care of all at once. Ha!

Nothing is better than just going out there and shooting like you did. You probably learned more just by doing that than you would have by watching or reading all about "how" to do it. Everything looked nicely exposed, etc. I would recommend just a few things based on my experience (I'm a Wedding Videographer here in LA). First, with one camera you are limited to certain angles, etc. so you did a great job of at least putting the camera in the best position for the Ceremony. I would however recommend that you get familiar with Manual focus. Set your focus meter to display in ft and keep an eye one what distance is in focus at any point in time. During a Ceremony, the action is pretty much all in one place so I'd recommend zooming all the way in on where the officiant/couple will be and then when its in focus, switch to manual. Then zoom out and no matter what you do you won't have the focus issues you had during that one minute sequence you mentioned. Receptions are a bit more tricky. I tend to know how far away everything is (I test prior to shooting) and keep that in mind and adjust manually on the fly. This takes LOTS of practice. Auto will help you when focus is moving around constantly. Just keep an eye on your focus distance meter (in feet). AC160a has a great LCD but sometimes you may think the couple that is 15 feet away is in focus and you'll look down and realize your meter shows that the wall 30 feet away is actually in focus. This becomes more noticeable when you blow it up on a big screen. But don't worry about that, just start getting used to keeping an eye on focus distance (even in auto focus) as you make a transition to using manual more often.

Next, I'd personally recommend zooming in a bit tighter on the couple dancing. Intimate moments are more "intimate" when we are right there with them. Don't be afraid to push in closer. You can pull out every once in a while but I personally like a tighter shot especially when if I had just one cam. Again, this is all OPINION. You will have your own unique style and for what you are doing, you are already doing a great job and have a great camera to help :) You are a DJ right? For Reception audio, why not patch in to your DJ board using your lav mic (use an XLR, RCA or 1/4" from the main out (or speaker out) to your transmitter and then you'll have even better audio for the music and toasts, etc. Always leave one channel for the real live audio though in case of laughter, cheering etc. For the Ceremony, if you only have one mic and you need it for your system/speakers, maybe get a 2nd to use to connect your camera to your system to get great sound (again, always have a backup/internal mic going)....or if you are close, you can get an XLR cable and run it into your camera from your board, although I'd recommend a wireless option to keep things clean and tiddy and not worry about grandma tripping over your cable, taking out your AC160 and breaking her hip.

Finally, much of putting together a good video is in the editing. That is a whole other topic altogether. Keep trying new things, especially since I don't think you are hired to do what you are doing, right? So try new things/angles/cuts/ and see what you like best. Also, look at some of the professional videographers in your area and see what they are doing and steal their good ideas, etc. :) Also, you are shooting at 1080p/60 which is nice, but its a definite "choice". I wouldn't just shoot in that speed just because...that's a great setting for a lot of motion or for slow motion editing. Otherwise, you might find 1080p30 or even 1080p24 would give you a more "film-like" look (less of a ultra smooth video/soap opera look). I shoot everything myself at 60p but I then conform and edit on a 24p timeline to get the best of both worlds (great slow motion and yet the more "film-look" of 24p for the non-slowmo stuff. That, again, is a whole other topic. But play around. If you are doing this for fun. Try shooting the Ceremony at 24p and the Reception at 60p and see what looks better to you. Just know you'll have to do a bit of background work to edit the two together if you decide to do that. But as long as you are just "testing"...I'd recommend trying that.

Anyway, just my two cents. Keep up the good work and good luck!

[pifemaster]

We're you DJ'ing while you were filming too? That's a lot to take care of all at once. Ha! Yes, I was DJ'ing the wedding and filimng. It's a little hectic, but I have done sooo many weddings (Disc Jockey) that I am pretty comfortable.



During a Ceremony, the action is pretty much all in one place so I'd recommend zooming all the way in on where the officiant/couple will be and then when its in focus, switch to manual. Then zoom out and no matter what you do you won't have the focus issues you had during that one minute sequence you mentioned. That is awesome advice. I did not realize/comprehend that if I zoomed in and obtained focus on the bride & groom (then switched to manual) and zoomed out, that it would retain focus. I have another reception only this friday, but on Saturday I have a ceremony and reception, so I will definitely experiment with this at Saturday's ceremony.



AC160a has a great LCD but sometimes you may think the couple that is 15 feet away is in focus and you'll look down and realize your meter shows that the wall 30 feet away is actually in focus. I found that the focus assist did help me with this a little. Although it makes the screen a little busy, it allowed me to see what the camera felt was in focus.



Next, I'd personally recommend zooming in a bit tighter on the couple dancing. Intimate moments are more "intimate" when we are right there with them. Don't be afraid to push in closer. You can pull out every once in a while but I personally like a tighter shot especially when if I had just one cam. I will admit that I got a little gun shy after the auto focus went hoaky during the ceremony. I could tell that as I zoomed in on the bride and groom, the focus started to wander. That is a big part of the reason why I stayed wider - everything stayed in focus better. I will have to practice with the focus to try to achieve a tighter zoom.


For Reception audio, why not patch in to your DJ board using your lav mic (use an XLR, RCA or 1/4" from the main out (or speaker out) to your transmitter and then you'll have even better audio for the music and toasts, etc. Always leave one channel for the real live audio though in case of laughter, cheering etc. For the Ceremony, if you only have one mic and you need it for your system/speakers, maybe get a 2nd to use to connect your camera to your system to get great sound (again, always have a backup/internal mic going)....or if you are close, you can get an XLR cable and run it into your camera from your board, although I'd recommend a wireless option to keep things clean and tiddy and not worry about grandma tripping over your cable, taking out your AC160 and breaking her hip. Absolutely! I have been researching wireless transmitter/reciever systems. Unfortunately, I have (4) Shure ULXP wireless systems and they do not make a portable reciever for that series. So I have been looking at the Senheiser systems and will probably go that route. My biggest hurdle is coming up with the proper way to mount the reciever on the camera. It looks like several companies make a shoe mount, but I use the shoe to mount a LED light during the reception. I will then patch in to my board for both ceremonies & receptions.


especially since I don't think you are hired to do what you are doing, right? NOPE... I am doing this primarily as a marketing tool (to be able to show highlights from events that I DJ) I also am a believer in over-delivering. You would be amazed at the response I have gotten from clients when they found out that they hired me as a DJ and the after the event, I upload a highlight video and send them a link to view it.

Thank you very much for all of your feedback!

Thank you,
Robert Pfeifer
Pifemaster Productions
www.pifemaster.com (http://www.pifemaster.com/)

[Mark Williams]

Hi Robert,
Man you really are a one man show. Here is something interesting I came across when I read your post which could serve as your stationary b-cameras. " The new Gopro Wi-Fi Combo Kit enables remote control, live preview and playback on smartphones and tablets*, live streaming* to the web, and more. The Wi-Fi Combo Kit is compatible with HD HERO2 and Original HD HERO cameras." You seem comfortable multi-tasking and with "tech". This might compliment your operation at a reasonable price. Also there is about to be a firmware upgrade with the Gopro's that enables a higher bitrate of 35mbs with a vast image quality improvement.

http://gopro.com/hd-hero-accessories/wi-fi-bacpac-remote-combo/

[pifemaster]

Hi Robert,
Man you really are a one man show. Here is something interesting I came across when I read your post which could serve as your stationary b-cameras. " The new Gopro Wi-Fi Combo Kit enables remote control, live preview and playback on smartphones and tablets*, live streaming* to the web, and more. The Wi-Fi Combo Kit is compatible with HD HERO2 and Original HD HERO cameras." You seem comfortable multi-tasking and with "tech". This might compliment your operation at a reasonable price. Also there is about to be a firmware upgrade with the Gopro's that enables a higher bitrate of 35mbs with a vast image quality improvement. Very interesting indeed! I will have to read up on this a little more. Maybe something else to spend money on :)

Thank you,
Robert Pfeifer
Pifemaster Productions
www.pifemaster.com (http://www.pifemaster.com/)

[The Irish TRex]

Well, way to go on over-delivering. That's a huge reason some people succeed more than others IMO. To follow up on your responses...I actually didn't think you should have zoomed closer or more often during the Ceremony...I was talking about the first dance, and dances with/mom/dad etc. Mixing it up is good but its way more "emotional" when we are right there with them. Again, in my opinion. But with only one camera, a little variety is good. Also, I personally am not a huge fan of anything beyond the slowest of zooms during an event (unless of course you do a rapid zoom for a stylized effect). If its not for effect, I feel like a faster zoom calls attention to the camera work so I always tell the guys I hire to keep it slow as if they meant to do it. :) And know that the further you zoom in the more shaky the camera will be so be gentle (or take your hands off it when you have a good framed shot (its okay if the people move a bit within frame).

I've only used teh AC160 once but if I remember right, it had a "manual focus assist" setting that you should TURN OFF. Then manual focus will stay when you switch it. There's another recent post about this as well.

Finally, the mic situation...sennheisers are good. I have two. If you can afford them, grab yourself an EW 112 (G3). Super reliable and work great. Where I am (Los Angeles) the "A-band" version worked best (there are several frequency bands that you can choose from). It came with a camera mount. You can buy a cold shoe adapter for cheap at B&H or something that will make your one shoe mount on your camera into two. Or you can buy something that screws into the little screw holes on the top of the handle and goes from 1/4" screw to cold shoe mount. Either way you have tons of options. Soon enough your light weight camera will have 5 lbs of additional periferals on it and you'll be wondering what the hell happened to your once-light camera. :) That's what makes it fun!

Good luck and congrats on your biz.

[pifemaster]

If you can afford them, grab yourself an EW 112 (G3). That is exactly the system I have been looking at. Based on the frequency finder on the sennheiser website http://www.sennheiserusa.com/findfrequency/ it appears that the (A / 516 - 558 MHz) band would work best for me. My primary zip code is 16001 and when I check the chart, I find a vacant band between 524-530 Mhz.


Can you answer a couple of questions about that particular model:


Can I (through the use of optional cableing) directly input a line level signal from my mixer to the SK100 G3 bodypack transmitter?


If I set a particular frequency on the transmitter & reciever, can I leave them both set on that frequency so that each time I power them up, they will pair up and work. I would hate to have to go through a pairing process every time I go to use them. My Shure systems work this way and it is nice because I can basically set it and forget about it (unless I would encounter an issue).

Thank you,
Robert Pfeifer
Pifemaster Productions
www.pifemaster.com (http://www.pifemaster.com/)

[The Irish TRex]

That is exactly the system I have been looking at. Based on the frequency finder on the sennheiser website http://www.sennheiserusa.com/findfrequency/ it appears that the (A / 516 - 558 MHz) band would work best for me. My primary zip code is 16001 and when I check the chart, I find a vacant band between 524-530 Mhz.


Can you answer a couple of questions about that particular model:


Can I (through the use of optional cableing) directly input a line level signal from my mixer to the SK100 G3 bodypack transmitter?


If I set a particular frequency on the transmitter & reciever, can I leave them both set on that frequency so that each time I power them up, they will pair up and work. I would hate to have to go through a pairing process every time I go to use them. My Shure systems work this way and it is nice because I can basically set it and forget about it (unless I would encounter an issue).

Thank you,
Robert Pfeifer
Pifemaster Productions
www.pifemaster.com (http://www.pifemaster.com/)

Yes, most Dj's I run into have Shure mics so I don't run into many frequency issues. A-Band definitely works best out here in SoCal in my experience and when I've shot Weddings back east it seemed to work there really well too. And yes, the settings all stay the same after power down/up. That would suck to have to change them. Although I have on occasion when I'm on a beach or just feel like I'm getting more interference than usual. But mostly they stay at one frequency. I do adjust the sensitivity levels often though because one minute I'll have the lav mic on a quiet groom and the next hooked up to a loud DJ. When I hook into a DJ's board I give them 3 options: RCA, 1/4", or XLR (all going to 3.5mm). I say "can I hook into your board (usually their "main out") and then they tell me what connection I need. Sometimes I go into the back of one of their speakers using the XLR cable. All of these cables are basically short cables and the 3.5mm end hooks right into the G3 transmitter pack. Super easy. Then, just adjust levels accordingly on your receiver and on your camera for good sound. If you are really strapped for cash you could do a G2 pack as well. A good one off of Craigslist or eBay will serve you well. The G3's have more options and are better, but I still have my G2 and use it every weekend alongside my G3. It works like a charm and has done so for the last 5 years. Have fun!

[pifemaster]

Just got off the phone with Rob @ Washington Music Center. I ordered the EW112PG3-A system WITHOUT the lav mic and with an additional 3.5mm - XLR (female) cable. It will ship out today and I will have it the beginning of next week. Now I just have to decide how I want to mount the reciever.

Thank you,
Robert Pfeifer
Pifemaster Productions
www.pifemaster.com (http://www.pifemaster.com/)

[tflak]

Please know that the $300 upgrade is a policy that the US pursued. It may or may not be available in all countries. check with Panasonic to double check your options.

Best,

Jan

So let me see if I have this straight -- B&H offers the 160 (in stock) for $4,095 and the 160A for $5,095 (in stock). Guess it's not too hard to see where I'm going with this - $4,095 + 300 = $4,395. That's a $700 difference. Seems like a no-brainer. Or am I missing something? Like, if you bought the AC160 today you'd be ineligible for the $300 upgrade because it had to be registered prior to availability of the 160A?

[sewolla]

Since the upgrade is a purchased item, why would Panasonic make it available to just buyers who registered their product prior to the release of the 160A? I can see there being a time limit on it if it was offered as a free upgrade, but in this case it's not free. It runs $300.00. So yes I would think you should be able to buy the straight 160 and then get it upgraded to the 160A.

[pifemaster]

So let me see if I have this straight -- B&H offers the 160 (in stock) for $4,095 and the 160A for $5,095 (in stock). Guess it's not too hard to see where I'm going with this - $4,095 + 300 = $4,395. That's a $700 difference. Seems like a no-brainer. Or am I missing something? Like, if you bought the AC160 today you'd be ineligible for the $300 upgrade because it had to be registered prior to availability of the 160A? I am pretty sure you can order a new AC160 today and pay the 300.00 to have the focus hardware upgraded. I just opted to purchase the AC160A and not have to send the camera in for upgrade and wait. Different strokes for different folks :-)

Thank you,
Robert Pfeifer
Pifemaster Productions
www.pifemaster.com (http://www.pifemaster.com/)

[tflak]

I am pretty sure you can order a new AC160 today and pay the 300.00 to have the focus hardware upgraded. I just opted to purchase the AC160A and not have to send the camera in for upgrade and wait. Different strokes for different folks :-)

Thank you,
Robert Pfeifer
Pifemaster Productions
www.pifemaster.com (http://www.pifemaster.com/)

Wasn't questioning your decision to get the 160A - assumed you had your reasons and that's also none of my business anyway. ;-)

My post was directed to Jan because I'm considering a 160 and just wanted to make sure that there wasn't some sort of hidden gotcha if I bought the 160 expecting to have it be upgradeable to a 160A equivalent. In my case, saving the $700 is a big deal and I would love to be able to put that money toward accessories.

[pifemaster]

I just happened to be browsing the B&H Photo website yesterday and noticed that the price of the 160A dropped from $5095 to $4495 - a $600 price reduction only 22 days after I made my purchase. Needless to say, I contacted B&H and spoke to customer service. THEY GAVE ME A $600 REFUND - No Questions asked.

Now that is customer service!

If any one is considering purchasing a 160 and then paying the $300 upgrade fee, the decision just got more difficult (well actually it is now a no-brainer).

Thank you,
Robert Pfeifer
Pifemaster Productions
www.pifemaster.com (http://www.pifemaster.com/)

[kwkeirstead]

B&H is a notoriously excellent vendor. Good pricing, unless you opt for eBay auctions and are lucky.

B&H customer support is great - you can call and at no time during any reasonable conversation do you get the notion they are trying to get rid of you.

I am a big fan of B&H. Glad I do not live in NYC. I would probably be in there every second day.

[tflak]

I just happened to be browsing the B&H Photo website yesterday and noticed that the price of the 160A dropped from $5095 to $4495 - a $600 price reduction only 22 days after I made my purchase. Needless to say, I contacted B&H and spoke to customer service. THEY GAVE ME A $600 REFUND - No Questions asked.

Now that is customer service!

If any one is considering purchasing a 160 and then paying the $300 upgrade fee, the decision just got more difficult (well actually it is now a no-brainer).

Hey Robert - really glad it worked out that way for you! And good to know B&H did that. That's most likely where I'll be buying mine in a couple of weeks.

Yesterday, was browsing the AF100 forum and saw Barry had commented that the 160A was selling for $300 more than the 160. So hopped over to the B&H site and, sure enough, the price reduction was there. You can still pick up a 160 and get the paid firmware for an end total of $100 less than buying the 160A, but why bother with needing to ship the camera out for the upgrade, loss of use, etc? You're right - it's a no-brainer.

[pifemaster]

Hey Robert - really glad it worked out that way for you! And good to know B&H did that. That's most likely where I'll be buying mine in a couple of weeks. I have been really happy with B&H. The biggest thing I like is their inventory. When I make the decision to purchase something, I don't like to wait. They usually have pretty good stock and they are only 2 day UPS ground shipping away from me.

Thank you,
Robert Pfeifer
Pifemaster Productions
www.pifemaster.com (http://www.pifemaster.com/)

[tflak]

So I go to buy the 160A today and B&H has raised the price $500 since the end of June. They started out at $5,095, then went down to $4,495 and now back up up to $4,999. Seems this camera is somehow tied to oil futures. And now they're saying it usually ships in 2-4 weeks.

Hello Adorama! It's on its way at the price I was expecting to pay at B&H. So its all good. Can't wait to get my hands on it.

[LanceOregon]

There is a $450 price difference now at Adorama between the AC160 and AC160A. So the savings from buying the AC160 first and then upgrading is only $150 Even less than that, since you would have to ship the camera to get it serviced.