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View Full Version : A Visual explanation of Master Pedestal



Jarred Land
04-01-2005, 07:43 PM
Click here for the article:

http://www.dvxuser.com/articles/MP/

BLUESPIDER
04-01-2005, 08:14 PM
wow, this is definetly going to give people a good idea of what the master ped does. Very cool Jarred! :)

Policar
04-02-2005, 12:35 PM
One question is: is it possible to get 0IRE at master ped +15? At what point is the master ped adding detail to the shadows, and at what point is it merely boosting the black levels?

Imo, nice as a low master ped setting looks, extra detail in the shadows is never a bad thing, especially since blacks can be crushed in post, but recovering lost shadow detail is impossible....

Crazy_Ideas
04-14-2005, 04:19 PM
Cool, I see the pictures but wheres the article? O, whats the left and right comparison, setup 0 vs 7.5?

Rob

Crazy_Ideas
04-14-2005, 04:40 PM
Oops, I see, a "Visual Explanation".... LOL

Rob

Jarred Land
04-15-2005, 07:51 PM
yes.. i like pictures. give me pictures. Im pretty useless at stringing sentances together, that's what we have Barry for :)

Walter_Graff
06-10-2005, 04:29 PM
Remember that if you are recording for broadcast, you can not allow your master ped to be below 7.5, nor above 10 IRE.

Jarred Land
06-11-2005, 12:47 AM
well, everything I have ever shot for broadcast musta snuck through the cracks then, because I have never, ever, had my master ped above 7.5. (well besides doing this review of course)

Walter_Graff
06-11-2005, 04:48 AM
Its not that your master ped couldn't be above, its that it shouldn't be above. If someone checks and your peds are above 10 or below 7.5 then you get the tape back. The standard is 7.5 but it is allowed to go to ten. So in that range s broadcast safe. Maintaining standards is very important in broadcast. If not then we would have all sorts of quality issues similar to how commercials always sound louder than programs.

Graeme_Nattress
06-11-2005, 05:05 AM
Digital video tape doesn't have setup though. Black is at code 16, white at code 235. Talking about IRE on a digital tape format is nonsense, as the IRE is dependent on the digital to analogue converter on the deck, not on the digital data on the tape, which should always be in the 16-235 range. Even if you shoot milky blacks for effect, pure black is still at 16, even if no pure black has been recorded.

I must admit, I find that shooting with an ultra contrast lens is helpful as it will bump some shadow detail up in brightness, and when I crush the video down with my custom gamma curve, everything looks great, and I get a bit more shadow detail than if I'd not shot with the filter.

Graeme

Leigh Wanstead
06-11-2005, 04:12 PM
Will it be ok for the setup to be 0 and make dvd, mpeg2, wmv for hosting on website? I really like the pictures at setup 0 and MP -15. I have no interest for broadcasting my tape on tv channels.

TIA

Regards
Leigh

Jarred Land
06-11-2005, 04:30 PM
Do not shoot with your master ped over 7.5 as Walter is suggesting.. unless you are shooting some heaven sequence and want the effect of a +5 White Pro-mist. and when your digital file gets output to analogue broadcast and a 7.5 IRE is added it will look even worse. Master Ped is completely a subjective, creative tool in the digital medium. As long as you understand that setup may be added to your video to raise IRE there is nothing wrong with shooting with a master ped at -5000 if it turned your crank.

Mr. Nattress is 100% bang on, IRE has little relevance these days. What ever your camera is set at is a digital number and is modified by various other digital settings. You can only go from 16 to 235 and everything else is just "digital excess"

I really doubt it because Walter seems to know his stuff.. but perhaps Walter you are mixing up Master Ped with IRE/Setup?

I have never even heard of a 7.5 master ped setting, and you cant set it on the DVX to 7.5.

Jarred Land
06-11-2005, 04:31 PM
yes Leigh, although it doesnt really matter, everyone that knows anything will recommend you shoot DV with 0 setup. Then adjust your master ped to whatever you want.

Graeme_Nattress
06-11-2005, 04:52 PM
Jared, any chance of adding to the wonderful visual referecen with some NLE scopes showing the digital range of values the images produced? I think that would be enlightening.

Graeme

Jarred Land
06-11-2005, 04:58 PM
I actually did do this way back when I actually wrote that artcle, I just dont have the scope grabs anymore. I do remember that 7.5 setup with -8 master ped shoots out black (16) , and a 0 setup with a -6 master ped creates the exact same thing, pure digital black at 16RGB.

Walter_Graff
06-11-2005, 05:44 PM
It will but here are some thoughts on what happens when you start switching around:

http://www.signvideo.com/dv-black-level-dvd-7.5-ire-0-ntsc-part-2.htm

Jarred Land
06-11-2005, 06:04 PM
Walter are you talking Setup instead of master ped because pointing to that article has nothing to do with master ped.. and has nothing to do with the above comment on manipulating black levels.

Unfortunately Walter that Article is a little retarded.. It tries to tell you your "Your DV camcorder is wrong" but it has nothing to do with the camera, setup or anything else in the digital realm.. it only has to do with how different exterior devices alter setup, etc.. The whole article is trying to argue that a digital file is digital, and somehow that is wrong.

the biggest problem with this whole topic, is unfortunately from the "older" generation who's brains are programmed in analogue, and don't understand the Digital Values of media, and the old days where the Nazis at broadcasters would send back your tapes if your beta sp was messing up thier scopes.

Dont worry about getting regected from broadcasters or distribution for shooting Zero setup. I judy shot an entire feature with Zero setup, -8 master ped and didnt add setup. It passed the German Broadcast QC (told me Germans was the hardest to pass) and is in every single Blockbuster store in North America. Not ever did anyone along the way say " hey, you shot with 0 setup!!! burn in hell you jackass!"

Walter_Graff
06-11-2005, 06:06 PM
I guess someone didn't like my previous post as it was deleted. If anyone wants a copy, I still have it so email me privately. Here's is the story (this is for those interested in broadcast. The rest can do what you like because no one cares other than your TV which probably doesn't care. )

With a7.5 setup in the DVX 100 in 24p mode and your pedestal at -8 you get 7 IRE or 0 RGB which is the low end of headroom for black. At -2 you get 13.5 or 16 IRE which is digital TV black in your computer or the highest you want to be for broadcast. At 0 set up and pedestal at -6 you get 7 IRE which again is the lowend of headroom for Black. At 2 you get 16 RGB which is digital black.
THe problem may be how your system interprets these numbers and more so how it outputs them. Your computer knows nothing about the outside world. The scopes in your computer measure levels in your computer but have little to do with the outside world. Its the job of the input output device to tell the deck you record to how levels are. In the perfect world the I/O device should add appropriate levels. SO if you tell your AJA box that your output setup is 7.5 and on your computer scope, blacks are 0 then when you record to tape you should get 7.5. BUt this is not always true as I found out the hard way with three different AJA systems.

Okay! Forget everything I just said and know that if you are sending an output to a deck outside of your computer for broadcast and do not have a waveform/vectorscope to verify levels they may not be what you think. If you are not doing anything for broadcast then go about your business.

Jarred Land
06-11-2005, 06:10 PM
email me the post walter.. I will repost it if it got deleted.. cause it would probally explain how you came around the whole above 7.5 master ped argument, which made no sense, because now you are talking about 7.5 IRE.

Walter_Graff
06-11-2005, 06:11 PM
"the biggest problem with this whole topic, is unfortunately from the "older" generation who's brains are programmed in analogue, and don't understand the Digital Values of media, and the old days where the Nazis at broadcasters would send back your tapes if your beta sp was messing up thier scopes"

Actually somehow you think that in digital you can simply do what you want. I send digital masters to networks every week and you can not. Actually sometimes I could if no one is looking (but most of the time we spend the money to have someone check) but as a professional I want to maintain integrity of my picture and quality of my product. Your attitude of who cares is unprofessional IMHO and will get you in trouble someday. I would hope that professionals try to maintain standards and don't say who cares regardless of whether you shoot on a $300 camera or a 300,000 camera, are making it for your sister or 7 million viewers.

Walter_Graff
06-11-2005, 06:14 PM
The point of the article was to show you that what you do with your levels can negatively affect the quality of your video when sending it to DVD. If it was "retarded" to you then thats great. It makes perfect sense to me, maintain standards and don;t just adjust something because you think it looks good. Rather know hat happens when it goes somewhere else.

Jarred Land
06-11-2005, 06:42 PM
Walter... i still dont get the whole 7.5 Master Ped comment that started your rant.. for the 4th time can you please explain?

and im not saying who cares.. I dont know where you got that from, Im saying its not as important woring about your master ped settings.. you scared the hell out of alot of people when you posted that comment that was just wrong. I have never met a single person that shoots with a master ped above 7.5, and your telling everyone that they will be rejected if they dont. Its a false statement, that needed to be corrected.

And dont get me started on NTSC standards lol... Nothing like making your Video fit into standards that where set in 1950. If for some reason your broadcaster (walter I would love to know who is rejecting you) has a problem, almost every single NLE has a button you can press to trim your IRE to NTSC broadcast levels.

So.. not who cares.. but dont worry about it. Shoot at 0 IRE, if someone tells you to shoot digital video with an introduced 7.5 ire give them a slap for me. This is a setting for the analogue outputs only.

Walter_Graff
06-11-2005, 06:52 PM
>i still dont get the whole 7.5 Master Ped comment that started your rant.. for the 4th time can you please explain?

Very simply making adjustments to your camera can effect your overall master black level. If it does and you are shooting for broadcast, while it might look good at home, it might be milky on air or crushed.

>I have never met a single person that shoots with a master ped above 7.5, and your telling everyone that they will be rejected if they dont. Its a false statement, that needed to be corrected.

I am saying that the acceptable range of pedestal for broadcast is between 7.5 and 10. Not that you should shoot above it. Just that if you are shooting for broadcast, your final master should be with in that range if you are mastering for 7.5 set up. If you are mastering for digital, then do what you like best. Let me correct that, do what you are asked to do. Many times I am asked for digital masters where they want the setup at 7.5 and not zero.

>If for some reason your broadcaster (walter I would love to know who is rejecting you) has a problem, almost every single NLE has a button you can press to trim your IRE to NTSC broadcast levels.

And that is the point. Make sure your levels look the way you want when it leaves the computer, not inside, because inside, the computer doesn't know what the real world is. If you have an edit system and edit for broadcast, its best to have an external scope and use that for setting levels. In the past some things have been rejected by the Scripts channels, Here TV, and NBC. Now everything we do goes to a QC house and we have no problems.

Jarred Land
06-11-2005, 07:15 PM
This is wrong in so many ways.. Digibeta, what you all should be giving to your broadcaster is 0 IRE. period. , but perhaps you are still delivering in Beta SP? Maybe if your "broadcaster" is using old equipment then thats fine; just flick the switch on the deck. This topic really doesnt deserve this much discussion.

Walter_Graff
06-11-2005, 08:19 PM
This is wrong in so many ways.. Digibeta, what you all should be giving to your broadcaster is 0 IRE. period. , but perhaps you are still delivering in Beta SP? Maybe if your "broadcaster" is using old equipment then thats fine; just flick the switch on the deck. This topic really doesnt deserve this much discussion.

WEll I'll end it here then. Some broadcasters require you to use a 7.5 set up with digibeta. That's right, not all broadcasters want digibeta at 0. The world is still very much in the very early stages of a transition so while you might have some idea that the world is all digital, it isn't or if it is, it still must answer to older standards too. As for beta, about 95% of all commercials are required in this format for delivery so it isn't as old as you might like to think.

Jarred Land
06-11-2005, 09:45 PM
cool all is well, I think we agree.. though which is the point.. if You are going analogue, then keep an eye on your setup, if your staying digital, 0 it is :)

Walter_Graff
06-11-2005, 10:17 PM
Guess I didn't say it clear enough at first, yes always watch your analog outputs as they don't always jive with digital. I use the term broadcast to mostly to mean analog since most of what folks output for broadcast outside of digibeta is usually beta. And its more than just setup, color and whites too need to be watched.

Graeme_Nattress
07-19-2005, 06:36 PM
Here's my article on video levels that I finally got finished. I hope you all find it interesting:

http://www.kenstone.net/fcp_homepage/video_levels_nattress.html

Graeme

Jay Rodriguez
07-20-2005, 07:54 AM
Article is awesome and will come in VERY handy for me! Thanks a TON Graeme! You're really a vast resource of great information my friend.

Graeme_Nattress
07-20-2005, 08:01 AM
Thanks muchly!

Graeme

Bruce Morgan
10-22-2005, 03:24 PM
Digital video tape doesn't have setup though. Black is at code 16, white at code 235. Talking about IRE on a digital tape format is nonsense, as the IRE is dependent on the digital to analogue converter on the deck, not on the digital data on the tape, which should always be in the 16-235 range. Even if you shoot milky blacks for effect, pure black is still at 16, even if no pure black has been recorded.

I must admit, I find that shooting with an ultra contrast lens is helpful as it will bump some shadow detail up in brightness, and when I crush the video down with my custom gamma curve, everything looks great, and I get a bit more shadow detail than if I'd not shot with the filter.

Graeme
:thumbsup:
Hello Graeme !
What would be a ultra contrast lens(by name ) ? or hopefull a filter by name ?brand ? or description of general type .?
Thanks for a reply
Bruce :beer:

Graeme_Nattress
10-22-2005, 04:09 PM
Tiffen Ultra Contrast 3, and 5 is what I use.

Graeme

Ronster
11-24-2005, 11:41 PM
so if I am shooting on my dvx what is the best thing to set to.... 0 ire or 7.5 ire....

why does a digital camera like the dvx even have the choice between 0 ire and 7.5 ire if digital should just be 0 ire?

This thread is making it sound like if you are digital you should just be shooting at 0 ire...

Which I am fine with...I just want to know which one to set my camera to...I personally prefer my blacks to be really black....

are you guys also saying that we really shouldn't go past 0 ire -6 on the master ped????? for broadcast standards

i was a bit confused please just clarify on this and sorry if I am opening an old wound here....I just would like a recommended setting.....I like shooting at negative 7 on the master ped (does it make a huge difference if it is 0 ire or 7.5 ire)?

Barry_Green
11-25-2005, 02:44 AM
This thread is making it sound like if you are digital you should just be shooting at 0 ire...

Correct. Always set to the SETUP menu setting to zero. 7.5 is not implemented the way you'd want, and is (basically) only useful if you're not using the DVX to record the image. If you're using the DVX as a live camera head and feeding its s-video output over to a BetaSP deck, then 7.5 might be the way to go. But if you're recording on the DVX's tape, or through firewire, never ever set the setup menu setting to 7.5.


I personally prefer my blacks to be really black....
Then you definitely don't want to set to 7.5! That washes out the blacks.


are you guys also saying that we really shouldn't go past 0 ire -6 on the master ped?????
Setting the master ped lower than about -6 will start to crush the shadows to all black, without retaining detail. The range from 0 to -6 changes the look without necessarily sacrificing detail, but -7 to -15 definitely sacrifice detail. You can go lower if you want, if you like the high-contrast reversal-film look, but -6 is about the lowest you'd want to go if you wanted to retain full dynamic range.


I like shooting at negative 7 on the master ped (does it make a huge difference if it is 0 ire or 7.5 ire)?
-7 master pedis fine, but always always always leave the SETUP menu set to zero, not 7.5 (unless you know exactly what you're doing and have a very good reason to change to 7.5!)

Ronster
11-25-2005, 10:36 AM
Barry,

thanks so much for not only answering my questions, but for doing it in a way that is super clear!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I don't know how long my camera has been on 7.5 for...lol...but I switched it to 0%

I definetly like the blacks black...might just stay at 0 ire and -7 on the master ped

really like the chart that Jarred made too showing the black detail differences very cool!

your guys articles lately on the hvx 200 and the dvx 100b have been superb as well

thanks so much,

Ronster

dvxStephen
11-26-2005, 04:40 PM
Jarred, thanks for a beautifully done, informative article.

Barry, recently you wrote, "Setting the master ped lower than about -6 will start to crush the shadows to all black, without retaining detail. The range from 0 to -6 changes the look without necessarily sacrificing detail, but -7 to -15 definitely sacrifice detail. You can go lower if you want, if you like the high-contrast reversal-film look, but -6 is about the lowest you'd want to go if you wanted to retain full dynamic range."

Looking over Jarred's images in his article, the (Setup 0) Master Ped -3 and 0 shots appear to give a few stops more shadow detail than the Master Ped. -6 "standard setting" image.

I can see that above 0, things start to get so washed out in the blacks that it looks like information might be lost.

Below this, however, assuming that one's planning to go in and tweak the curves in post to put the blacks back where they should be, it looks like raising the master Pedestal a few notches would extend the exposure latitude of the DVX, which could be a huge help with windows in a shot, or shooting outdoors with direct sun in the game.

Is this right?

If so, what's the difference between using using -3 or above and using a Digicon or other contrast reducing filter, other than saving money and lens cleaner?

(I've done res. tests on the Digicon on a DVX, and it does an excellent job of preserving 24p fine line detail. On the resolution test chart, the change is virtually indestinguishable.)

Or how about using both raised Ped and a Digicon -- would this be the best way to signfiicantly extend the DVX's range beyond the 7 stop wall to something that could handle very 9 or 10 stop contrast-range scenes?

Barry_Green
11-26-2005, 05:11 PM
Haven't used the digicon, but I've used the ultracon and it appears to just introduce a contolled flare into the image, washing out the blacks. I'd expect that a contrast-reducing filter in concert with a raised master pedestal would result in a substantially "milky"-looking picture, but I haven't tried that combination.

I see no real value to raising the master ped above 0, as far as retaining more info -- it just appears to "gray" the picture while not introducing any new info. In my testing I found that you could go as far as -6 while still discerning detail in the darkest chips on a chip chart, whereas -7 and below resulted in actual crushed levels and loss of detail.

Certainly feel free to experiment with the digicon and master ped (that's one thing that's great about testing video -- it's free and the results are immediate, unlike film!), but I don't know how much you're going to like the final picture. You may be able to capture an extended range, maybe not, but in either case the resulting picture is likely to look very milky and 'blah'...

dvxStephen
11-26-2005, 05:36 PM
Haven't used the digicon, but I've used the ultracon and it appears to just introduce a contolled flare into the image, washing out the blacks. I'd expect that a contrast-reducing filter in concert with a raised master pedestal would result in a substantially "milky"-looking picture, but I haven't tried that combination....

I guess my question wasn't presented very clearly... Barry, you wrote in your DVX book that the DVX has about 7 stops of latitude, and higher-range 2/3 inch chip SD cameras can better that by several stops.

Here's my logic: I'm assuming that, no matter the camera, the latitude still has to "fit" within the digital 16 to 255 range. So even with a $40,000 or more, higher latitude camera, if one is comparing raw footage, that camera still has to stuff all that latitude between digital full black and full white -- which also of course means less contrast. Or, as you say, a milkier-looking pix.

I'm trying to get more latitude with my DVX when in high contrast situations, and wondering why raising setup a bit -- keeping it below 0 in any case -- wouldn't be just the ticket.

Please remember that in any case, I'm assuming that one would tweak the results in post, adjusting the gamma curve to get a non-washed out look.

Pragmatically speaking, what I'm looking for is a way to not blow out the highlights in a high-contrast scene, (say outside a window) and still be able to see detail everywhere else (say inside the room). Then, in post, I'd compress the highly exposed areas, like outside the window, to alow me to re-introduce contrast inside the room.

Much like film allows enough exposure in what would be blown-out areas so that the shot can be usable. In film, those hot areas have little detail -- In effect, very little gamma curve devoted to them -- but enough so the eye accepts it as not blown out.

(My goal here is to be able to still shoot useful footage in situations where I don't have time to scrim or ND the windows, or, outdoors, fly a silk.)


I see no real value to raising the master ped above 0, as far as retaining more info -- it just appears to "gray" the picture while not introducing any new info. In my testing I found that you could go as far as -6 while still discerning detail in the darkest chips on a chip chart, whereas -7 and below resulted in actual crushed levels and loss of detail...

...but in either case the resulting picture is likely to look very milky and 'blah'...

Again, I'm assuming I'd work the gamma curves in post to take out the milk. And limit the MP to 0 or below, so I'm not losing anything...

But I'm thinking that having MP set between -6 and 0 should be a basic technique for dealing with high contrast material -- where the scene contains more than 7 stops of latitude -- and then "fixing the milk in post" to bring back the snap in areas of the scene that the editor cares about.

What say ye? Am I missing something?

Thanks!

Barry_Green
11-26-2005, 05:59 PM
Well, yeah, that works if you're talking about raising from -15 up to about -6. In my experience, after you hit -6, any further raising will not be introducing new detail, just changing the level of black to a higher gray.

You can't make the chips see more than they can see; all you can do is change the processing to preserve as much of it as possible. -15 throws away a lot, in exchange for giving a snappier/punchier reversal-film look. +15 doesn't give you any more info than you have at zero, it just makes it "grayer". So the key is to get as deep of contrast as you can, while still preserving all the detail. I think that sweet spot is around -6, you may find you prefer the look at around -3.

dvxStephen
11-27-2005, 08:27 AM
Well, yeah, that works if you're talking about raising from -15 up to about -6. In my experience, after you hit -6, any further raising will not be introducing new detail, just changing the level of black to a higher gray.

You can't make the chips see more than they can see; all you can do is change the processing to preserve as much of it as possible. -15 throws away a lot, in exchange for giving a snappier/punchier reversal-film look. +15 doesn't give you any more info than you have at zero, it just makes it "grayer". So the key is to get as deep of contrast as you can, while still preserving all the detail. I think that sweet spot is around -6, you may find you prefer the look at around -3.

What you say makes sense. Fair enough. And thanks.

My thoughts on this came from the images in Jarred's article. That is, in his images, at least on my LCD monitor, there's noticibly more shadow detail evident in the MP -3 and MP 0 (at setup 0) shots.

In other wordsl, it's Jarred's fault!

Stephen

dvxStephen
11-27-2005, 08:43 AM
Barry wrote, "You can't make the chips see more than they can see; all you can do is change the processing to preserve as much of it as possible. -15 throws away a lot, in exchange for giving a snappier/punchier reversal-film look. +15 doesn't give you any more info than you have at zero, it just makes it "grayer". So the key is to get as deep of contrast as you can, while still preserving all the detail. I think that sweet spot is around -6, you may find you prefer the look at around -3."

Ok. Fair enough.

My posts on this topic were inspired by Jarred's article's images, which, at least on my monitor, show noticibly more shadow detail in the zero setup column when MP is at -3 and 0.

So, you see, it's all Jarrad's fault!

Thanks, Barry, for your time on this.

Stephen

Kubrick71
01-29-2006, 11:56 AM
Hey, I know this is kind of off topic. I was wondering where I can access old articles that aren't listed on the 2 pages under the news-article section.

http://www.dvxuser.com/articles/CV44/

This article for example is not shown, so I thought there might be more like this. Thanks.

Stevie Z
03-28-2006, 07:00 PM
This is the most amazing "explanation" I've seen. Well done you...

mochouinard
05-09-2006, 08:16 PM
I wish I had any idea what the difference between 0 and 7.5 is. I am with you on the Master Ped and personally prefer -3 to -5 but what are that Zero or 7.5 setup?

I hate to be the one interrupting with a newbie question, but....

If I understand correctly, USA and different place have different black output or something. So on the camera, there is a Camera Setup menu and a Setup option.
Well on my HVX200 anyway.

It is based in % on that page. It at 7.5% default, but I wonder if Barry comment about DVX to be set to 0 for best result is the same for the HVX200.

mochouinard
05-10-2006, 04:47 PM
I wonder if Barry comment about DVX to be set to 0 for best result is the same for the HVX200. I would say it stand for the HVX... ofcourse it doesn't seem to be as bad as the DVX at MP0 Setup 7.5, but it does make the image look ALOT better.

I am very happy I learn this. It can also help to get rid of unwanted shadow background.

PaPa
05-11-2006, 07:57 AM
what the heck does Setup do?

Inexistence
11-23-2006, 08:42 PM
Maybe I'm crazy or it's just the jpg compression for the test images but, the
0/MP-0 image looks noisier in the shadows than the 7.5/MP-0 image.

http://www.dvxuser.com/articles/MP/S0%20001.jpghttp://www.dvxuser.com/articles/MP/S75%20-0%20001.jpg

sbryan
08-13-2007, 01:04 PM
I'm confused...

The 7.5 and 0 IRE plus the range of -15 to +15 all refer to Master Pedestal? How can there be two different setups using the same variable?

Also, what does IRE stand for. I searched for dedicated topics, but couldn't find any.

VenezuelanD
08-16-2007, 07:08 PM
IRE I believe stands for International Radio Engineers and it is a unit used for broadcast video. Something about how much voltage goes into the signal for broadcast.

The Master Pedestal range of -15 to +15 is a setting used to adjust the "ped" or foot of the gamma curve. Think of the gamma as a diagonal line rising left to right on a graph. The line is not straight, but rather forms (or tries to emulate) a lazy S. the bottom of the S is your foot, or pedestal. it deals with the shadows in the picture. What you are essentially doing is shifting that bottom of the S up or down, allowing it to dig into blacks a bit more or less depending on the setting.

What the set-up refers to is a purely broadcast hold over and something you should leave at 0 unless you know what you are doing and are sure you want it at 7.5. The only reason you would want this is if the HVX was being used as a live camera and its signal was being fed directly to a live broadcast without any post. The reason being, is that in the US, televisions are set up so that 7.5IRE broadcasts as black. Most broadcast networks will dub footage to digitbeta for broadcast and these decks are set up to add set up automatically.

So if you add set up to the picture in the HVX, then send it to an editor and he edits the footage and then spits out a master to digibeta or whatever format the station is using you run the risk of adding set-up twice. Thus washing out your image. Since the HVX already shifted all blacks to 7.5, and this deck is now shifting your footage again, your blacks will look milky and washed out.

So in short: leave set up to the post guys. Use master pedestal to tweak the look of your footage in-camera.

(edit: I just looked it up and IRE stands for Institute of Radio Engineers, not International Radio Engineers)

sbryan
08-19-2007, 03:27 PM
Is IRE a changeable variable via the menus then? If so, what is the name of the setting?

I'm not saying that I want to change it, I just want to make sure it's set to 0.