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View Full Version : Can someone please help explain the Shutter Speed settings on the GH1



asteele10
12-11-2009, 07:10 AM
Why do the settings in video mode go from 30-4000? Everything I've read says they should be fractions 1/2, 1/1000, etc. Can some explain this? I read that for most situations, shutter on the GH1 should be 50 which is what I've kept it at.

Also, for time lapsing is there a way to tell the camera to only record 1 frame every second?

Thanks!

noirist
12-11-2009, 07:37 AM
Per the manual, the camera displays "30" for 1/30 second shutter, "50" for 1/50 second shutter, etc..

dvbrother
12-11-2009, 07:46 AM
The shutter speeds are fractions but the increments go in 1/3 stops, which I admit can be confusing up front. Think of it this way: the shutter speeds 1/30th and 1/60th (1/60th being 1/2 the time of 1/30th) are one stop difference. But between those two, the GH1 gives you 1/40th and 1/50th. Those are in increments of 1/3rd stop. Make sense?

1/50th is the shutter speed most closely associated with the speed of a Hollywood movie camera, and that's why that setting is recommended as you get film-like motion blur. However, if you're in the U.S. which runs on 60Hz electricity, sometimes 1/60th is a better choice. When you're shooting under fluorescent lights, or HMI lights in a professional situation, you can get ugly flicker if you shoot on 1/50th (or any shutter speed that isn't a multiple of 1/60th.)


As far as time lapse, you'll need an external intervalometer that plugs into the GH1's audio port to control the camera. You can find these on eBay. I have one and it works great.

dvbrother
12-11-2009, 07:49 AM
Ah, I misunderstood the question about shutter speeds and fractions. Noirist has the correct answer.

noirist
12-11-2009, 08:44 AM
Ah but your answer is more interesting :)

Nitsuj
12-11-2009, 11:14 PM
Also keep in mind to go as low as 1/2 you need to be in the SH mode which is 720p.

For the NTSC GH1 you should consider these two shutter speeds for the different modes.
FHD (1080p) - 1/50
SH (720p) - 1/60

If you are going to slow down your video by using the SH and conforming to 24p then I would set it to 1/125

As far as time lapse goes you need a remote switch for taking photos.
And another effect is just to set your GH1 stills to S (small) and hold down the shutter release to take a series of photos. You get an effect like this - 7347605

Psynema
12-12-2009, 10:48 AM
I have 1.2 and can't get my shutter to go below 1/30th on 720 p mode and when importing 720 p footage it's like it's recording at 30p and doubling the frames. :2vrolijk_08:

adys
12-12-2009, 11:38 AM
I don't understand why sometimes I can get below 1/30 in movie mode in 720p, and sometimes its blocked at 1/30.

Martti Ekstrand
12-12-2009, 12:26 PM
You have to be in manual focus - the autofocus need 1/30 or faster to work.

tflak
12-12-2009, 12:32 PM
To go below 1/30 - have to be using 720p 60, in CMM (set at M), AND Manual Focus.

adys, maybe sometimes you are inadvertently not using all of the above settings.

EDIT: Like Martti just said.

adys
12-12-2009, 02:26 PM
Got it :)

Thanks.


BTW, I just found the way to bring the MF assist in older lens, I will share just in case that it can help someone:

You have to go to focus selection, choose spot, , press menu button.
This will bring the MF assist.

Psynema
12-12-2009, 02:41 PM
Ah ok now I just need to figure out the 60P vs. 30p with duped frames thingy

Barry_Green
12-12-2009, 09:03 PM
Ah ok now I just need to figure out the 60P vs. 30p with duped frames thingy
Simple: you cannot ever shoot 60p with a shutter slower than 1/60th. It's impossible. If the shutter is slower than the reciprocal of the frame rate, then duplicated frames will always be introduced. Which means: never under any circumstances ever try to shoot 720/60p at any slower than 1/60th, or 720/50p at any speed slower than 1/50th, unless you want duplicated frames.

Park Edwards
12-12-2009, 10:38 PM
i was recently shooting with 720p and i forgot about going below 1/60th...luckily the scene(s) were only seconds long and it wasn't noticeable. i'll have to find a way to remind myself each time i shoot.

AKED
12-13-2009, 08:04 AM
As far as time lapse, you'll need an external intervalometer that plugs into the GH1's audio port to control the camera. You can find these on eBay. I have one and it works great.

I have one too, but I can only get it to work properly on pictures.
The shortest sequence for video I could do was something like 3 seconds.
Can you make the camera in videomode take only one picture at a time?
if Yes, how do you do it?

tflak
12-13-2009, 08:22 AM
Can you make the camera in videomode take only one picture at a time?

Well, then it couldn't properly be called video, could it? :)

Seriously, not sure why you would want to do that anyway.

The intervalometers are meant for stills.

larrys
12-13-2009, 09:11 AM
So, I have read so many times to shoot 720/60p at 120fps. Is there any best way - 60fps or 120fps?

Thanks.

Martti Ekstrand
12-13-2009, 09:42 AM
If you are sure you'll use a take in slow-motion shoot at 1/125, otherwise 1/60 for NTSC - 1/50 for PAL.

Psynema
12-13-2009, 11:32 AM
So, I have read so many times to shoot 720/60p at 120fps. Is there any best way - 60fps or 120fps?

Thanks.
60 will look ok
but 125 really sells it - just do a quick test shoot and you'll see.

dvbrother
12-13-2009, 11:55 PM
I have one too, but I can only get it to work properly on pictures.
The shortest sequence for video I could do was something like 3 seconds.
Can you make the camera in videomode take only one picture at a time?
if Yes, how do you do it?

The intervalometer is designed to take a series of STILL pictures at a desired shutter speed at a desired interval. You can use Quicktime to create an image sequence from these stills which effectively turns them into a video. The cool thing about this is that it is a 12 megapixel still vs. a 1080p AVCHD still. The size and resolution is huge so the quality is amazing. Bring this image sequence into your editing software and scale it down to size...voila! You've got a timelapse movie! And since the image size is huge, you can zoom and crop the image without losing perceivable image quality.

AKED
12-14-2009, 06:19 AM
Well, then it couldn't properly be called video, could it? :)

Seriously, not sure why you would want to do that anyway.

The intervalometers are meant for stills.

Well, I was thinking to do that for a while and then you put the scenes together and have your timelaps video. With videotapes in worked that way with some cameras.

AKED
12-14-2009, 06:44 AM
The intervalometer is designed to take a series of STILL pictures at a desired shutter speed at a desired interval.

Yes, I thought so. But I wanted to give it a try with video as well.
Didn't work the way I hoped.


You can use Quicktime to create an image sequence from these stills which effectively turns them into a video.

I haven't worked with Quicktime yet. I think I have nly the Quicktime player though.
I used to edit with Liquid 7.2 and now I have Edius, but very recently only.
So I have no experience with it yet.
With Liquid, I can tell the program only to show the picture for 1 frame.
Unfortunately I did not find out yet, how to make it play 50 frames a second. Only 30p.

The cool thing about this is that it is a 12 megapixel still vs. a 1080p AVCHD still. The size and resolution is huge so the quality is amazing. Bring this image sequence into your editing software and scale it down to size...voila! You've got a timelapse movie! And since the image size is huge, you can zoom and crop the image without losing perceivable image quality.

Yes, sounds great.

tflak
12-14-2009, 06:50 AM
Well, I was thinking to do that for a while and then you put the scenes together and have your timelaps video. With videotapes in worked that way with some cameras.

dvbrother covered the details nicely.

With some NLEs all you need do is select the first still in a folder and it will import as a sequence. You can usually select the frame rate that you want during import.
Maybe Edius will allow you to do that.

You might also consider shooting RAW for maximum adjustment of the images.

AKED
12-14-2009, 07:54 AM
OK, I know now how it works in Edius.
I will do some tests tonight.


And since the image size is huge, you can zoom and crop the image without losing perceivable image quality. But when you have imported it to the editing software, that size has been rescaled already or am I wrong. How do you zoom in and around then?

dvbrother
12-14-2009, 08:46 AM
But when you have imported it to the editing software, that size has been rescaled already or am I wrong. How do you zoom in and around then?
I can only speak for how it works in Final Cut Pro, and the explanation would be a bit lengthy. In principle, you can zoom and pan the image around once it has been placed and scaled in the timeline. If you want to animate these zooms and pans, you can set keyframes at the start and end of the move. I'm not sure if most NLE's can do this or not. If not, motion graphics programs like Adobe After Effects are designed to do this.

AKED
12-14-2009, 09:30 AM
OK, I understand. Thanks for the explanation

AKED
12-14-2009, 03:25 PM
I just had a try.
I took a time laps "movie" of our martial arts class, (Modern Arnis) with 1 picture every 10 seconds with 1 second exposure time for 90 Minutes.
I took the pancake lens, aperture 16, 100 iso.
I imported the frames to Edius and made an .avi out of that.
The size of the pictures stayed the same (some 4000 x 2000) so I could zoom in.
Have not used keyframes yet. The program is too new for me yet.

Of course the pictures are blurry. Any suggestion, how to use the JJC remote control to make the same just with shorter shutter times?

Tomorrow I will try to film a class with medium (1/20 of a second) and long exposure (like 1/4 of a second) and then speed it up. See, what the time-laps effect is with this version.

swyzlstyx
12-14-2009, 03:47 PM
....Tomorrow I will try to film a class with medium (1/20 of a second) and long exposure (like 1/4 of a second) and then speed it up. See, what the time-laps effect is with this version.


At 1/20th of a second, exposures of dudes whooping each other are still going to be blurry. I'd think a little grain wouldn't be a big problem with a "video" like this....so bump the ISO up as high as you're comfortable with (I'd even use ISO1600 for something like this...it's just a demo video, right), and set the aperture as wide as you can if setting the focus to infinity will be okay...which for a martial arts class...seems like it would....then you should be able to get your shutter speeds a little higher....and not just a total blur. Just crank the house lights up to full blast. You could even get some cheap industrial floodlights on stands at the hardware store (or Harbor Freight) to get your shutter speeds higher on a budget. Sounds interesting...you could do some cool stuff zooming in using your NLE!

AKED
12-14-2009, 04:13 PM
At 1/20th of a second, exposures of dudes whooping each other are still going to be blurry. I'd think a little grain wouldn't be a big problem with a "video" like this....so bump the ISO up as high as you're comfortable with (I'd even use ISO1600 for something like this...it's just a demo video, right), and set the aperture as wide as you can if setting the focus to infinity will be okay...which for a martial arts class...seems like it would....then you should be able to get your shutter speeds a little higher....and not just a total blur.

Thanks for the hints.
But at the moment I am not looking to get them non blurry.
I want to get some time laps effect and a little blurry is ok for that.
Usually when I film (not timelaps) it with a 1/50 of a second, which gives the smoothest movement.
1/100th of a second already has a little "high speed shutter" effect


Just crank the house lights up to full blast. You could even get some cheap industrial floodlights on stands at the hardware store (or Harbor Freight) to get your shutter speeds higher on a budget. Sounds interesting...you could do some cool stuff zooming in using your NLE!
Thanks for the hints again. Yes, usually I use halogen lights. 2000 - 6000 watt to have enough light.

What I would be interested in would be pictures with no blur for the timelaps.
Just to see how the effect would be.
I just don't know how to do that at the moment with the remote control, because the shortest exposure time I can set is 1 second only

Of course I can film normally and then speed it up to get the time laps effect.
I am in the testing phase, so any hints are welcome.

Thanks

AKED
12-15-2009, 12:37 AM
Here is a clip made with the GH1 that shows some fast motion with no blur.

http://vimeo.com/groups/gh1/videos/8190760

I used a 1/50 of a second shutter speed. I did not need the sticks to be sharp during the motions, this is why I left the shutter speed ion 1/50th of a second. Gives a more natural movement than with a shorter shutter speed.

AdrianF
12-15-2009, 01:59 AM
I just don't know how to do that at the moment with the remote control, because the shortest exposure time I can set is 1 second only
Are you setting the exposure time on the remote? I don't have the same brand remote as you but they're essentially the same. You can set your shutter on camera and just don't set anything at all for the exposure time on the remote. The only thing you need to set is the interval between shots, say ten seconds or so.

AKED
12-15-2009, 02:30 AM
Are you setting the exposure time on the remote?

Yes. The manual said, I should set the shutter on Bulb so that the remote can control it. So I did not thinking about another possibility.


I don't have the same brand remote as you but they're essentially the same. You can set your shutter on camera and just don't set anything at all for the exposure time on the remote. The only thing you need to set is the interval between shots, say ten seconds or so.

OK, this is a great hint. I will try it straight away.

Ha, great, it works.
I could have thought of it myself or at least could have tried it, but I didn't.

Thanks a lot, that was a very good help.

dvbrother
12-15-2009, 08:13 AM
I agree with AdrianF, the best and easiest wayto set shutter speed for time lapse is to set the speed on the GH1 and NOT on the remote. Regarding motion blur of your martial arts class, if your shutter speed was 1 second, then you should speed up your video 1200 percent in order for the blur to look correct. If the motion isn't looking right, perhaps it's because there's too much of a gap between images. If your shutter is 1 second and you only take a photo every ten seconds, there's a gap of nine seconds where nothing is happening. To be more realistic with a one second shutter speed, I'd set my camera to take a photo every two seconds, or at the very longest, 4 seconds.
That being said, a 1 second exposure may just be too long to see meaningful detail of martial arts moves.
Ignore what a previous poster said about opening up the aperture and bumping up the ISO. One of the advantages of a long exposure for time lapse is that you can shoot at low ISO's which makes the final image quality much better.

AKED
12-15-2009, 09:04 AM
I do not want to film a martial arts technique.
I don't use time-laps then.
See here

http://vimeo.com/8190760

and here

http://vimeo.com/8192488

I wanted a real time-laps video.
I have just uploaded it. This way, see the explanation under the video, I fit 90 minutes of training in 21 seconds.
Watch the video and you see the effect I wanted. The blur is good in that context.

http://vimeo.com/8198006

Tonight I will try to make some more. With shorter gaps, perhaps 4 seconds.
And as a video also with longer exposure, to get the movement blur. I will speed that up up in post to get the time-laps.
See how they will look like.

dvbrother
12-15-2009, 09:52 AM
I think the time lapse looks pretty good! I like how the people are just sliding across the floor.

AKED
12-15-2009, 09:57 AM
Yes, I like it too.
Especially for it was my first try with time lapse.

See how the other settings that I will film tonight will turn out.

So I want to try the same thing with
4 pictures also long exposition,
then the same with normal shutter speed, so that there are no motion blurs
and in real time with long shutter speed, again motion blur but then speed it up in post
and with normal shutter speed, also with the time lapse produced in post..

I will post the results.

AKED
12-16-2009, 02:07 AM
OK, I have tested 5 different settings.

Here is the result:
http://vimeo.com/8214224

dvbrother
12-16-2009, 10:03 AM
I think either the first setting (1 second shutter every four seconds) or the 1/4 second sped up times 100 look the best. But they all look decent. It depends on the effect you're after.
Time lapse with human beings usually looks comical (not in a bad way...it's just that fast-moving people are funny). Time lapse with people seems more difficult than with objects like clouds or stars, which move much more slowly in the frame.

AdrianF
12-17-2009, 12:26 AM
Glad you got it to work. I prefer the longer exposures, maybe because it looks more surreal, but yeah, it really depends on what look you're trying to go for.

AKED
12-17-2009, 02:29 AM
I think if you do a time lapse like that, a good m motion blur gives it a better look.
It was interesting to do.
I will try tonight something funny together with the time lapse.
That will be my last test, bacause then I know how it works and what I can do with it.

AKED
12-18-2009, 12:48 AM
So here is the other test.

http://vimeo.com/groups/gh1/videos/8255527

I think it is OK for the first try of this technique.