how to properly expose on GH1?

[Nicholas Natteau]

I've tried using the Histogram on the GH1, but it's very small to read.

What's the best way to properly expose what you're shooting on the GH1?

Should I be using a light meter?

When I had the HV200, I used a great program for Mac called "ScopeBox"

http://www.scopebox.com/

But I don't think you can hook up ScopeBox on MacBook Pro to GH1 since GH1 doesn't have firewire.

So if you shoot a talking head interview with the GH1, what's the best way to make sure your footage is properly exposed?

Thanks very much in advance,

- Nick

[Cassius]

With a good eye. It's either that, figuring out how to use the histogram effectively, or a light meter. The camera was designed with a more consumerish market in mind. It's LCD isn't completely accurate, but good enough to judge for the most part, especially when you got used to it and develop a strong sense of how what you see in camera translates to the final project.

[Barry_Green]

The histogram is your exposure tool.

[John Caballero]

On the LCD in between the shutter speed number display and the ISO number display there is a bar that goes from -3 to +3. I have been playing around changing aperture and when it gets to zero it is basically the correct exposure so it is basically a light meter isn't it?

[Barry_Green]

It's a different way of displaying the information in the histogram.

[John Caballero]

I just did some quick testing with the histogram on and checking the -3 to +3 and it seems that following the information in both at the same time yield excellent exposure info. Maybe others can try and post their findings.

[Nicholas Natteau]

Hello everyone,

Thanks very much. Is there anyway to get the histogram to display any differently on the screen? It's just because its this tiny little square in the middle.

I like the idea of using the -3/+3 scale though. Thanks again.

- Nick

[John Caballero]

It's just because its this tiny little square in the middle.

If you hit the display button once it goes away. To get it back you hit the display button twice. That helps if you don't want to see it smack in the middle all the time while you record footage.

[Kerplunk]

Histogram can be repositioned using the Quick Menu.

[greymog]

Using the histogram I find that giving my highlights priority, I get nice results, adding light to fill. Beirut is built in stone, and its very bright during the day.

I depend on the histogram more than the meter.

[Essami]

Hello everyone,

Thanks very much. Is there anyway to get the histogram to display any differently on the screen? It's just because its this tiny little square in the middle.

You can move it anywhere on the LCD. I have it at bottom left. Check the manual on how to do it, page 64.

Sami

[Nicholas Natteau]

Thanks. Any idea why the -3/+3 lightmeter takes several seconds to appear on screen?

Thanks,

- Nick

[Ben_B]

I've noticed that the camera likes to overexpose slightly...while I've gotten into a habit of trusting the histogram knowing that using properly exposed photos and video I can always bring them down in post if I want to, I've had highlights blow out a few times when I was told everything was exposed...I guess this is the nature of metering...in any case when shooting in a high contrast situation I trust my eyes more.

[pix2pixels]

Since you don't mind being tethered, you could take a still image of your setup, transfer that into your Mac and load it in Scopebox if you want to double check your levels and you could be more confident reading the tiny histogram in the future. just make sure that you take the still picture in Manual mode with the same settings as in the Movie Mode set up.

[averan]

I know this thread is ancient, but it is such an important topic!

I've found the same results as Ben....GH1 tends to overexpose and clip highlights. To balance this, I spot meter on the brightest part of my subject. With faces, this means aiming the "+" at the keylit side of the face and locking exposure. This gives me great shots everytime!

[metavox]

To balance this, I spot meter on the brightest part of my subject. With faces, this means aiming the "+" at the keylit side of the face and locking exposure. This gives me great shots everytime! That's a very good idea. I'll do that from now on. But I discovered something strange concerning the histogram: Before pressing REC it seems not to display the actual values. I tend to shoot quite flat with Nostalgia film mode and contrast turned down. When pressing REC the histogram "jumps back", meaning it then shows the lower contrast and becomes narrower. Anybody else discovered that?