HVX200P Modular Disassembly (DIY Photos) To Be Cont..

[DJDecay]

The steps were taken from the Service Manual for the HVX200P/202EN etc... The real service centre CD-ROM has a power-point like presentation of what steps to take to un-build the HVX camera. SM stands for Service Manual.

*** ALL PHOTOS HERE and Additional ones Are Also Available in 12megapixels on FLIKR ***

For now I'm going to step 4 which is to remove the LCD/button assembly. Do not do this if not electronically inclined or with improper tools. Not my fault if you void warranty or break your camera. For informational purposes only.

PRIOR TO DOING ANY OF THIS, REMOVE the Battery and Any P2 cards from the camera, also open the TAPE compartment, (no need to have the DV in the EJECT position).

Removal of Backplate (6) 4mm philips screws
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3202/3711575953_33c75a395c.jpg

HVX with Backplate removed - The blue wires connect power to the cam from Battery.
You will see access to 3 4mm black screws that will be needed to remove LCD/buttons assembly.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2469/3711576177_2d52ce76e4.jpg

Below are some odd connectors that are not in the SM, may be optional or for additional DIAG. SM only uses the one behind the battery bay. If anyone knows what they are for, please share.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2609/3711576905_c1c14f6244.jpg

Next I removed the plastic plate that covers the Zoom Lever, Rec Check and Eject Button. This is needed to gain access to two more screws holding the LCD assembly.

The tricky part is the Last Screw holding this plastic is right under the blue eject button, if you don't have it out, you may feel the need to pry on the plastic, DON'T. Everything comes apart with zero to minimal force. Open the tape bay.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2519/3711577121_04ce0a4b26.jpg

Remove the screw right below the blue eject.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3468/3711577311_117f73d7e4.jpg

Removing 6 more screws ( 2 at the 3CCD sign, and 3 more you can see in this photo, allows you to take this plastic cover off, no force is needed unless you spilled a coke/sugar drink on your CAM.)
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2515/3712391138_f9c27cf13e.jpg

This is what the camera looks like with that plate removed. You can now see a orange ribbon cable (and you can see access to the XLR Jack panel and Component/Composite Input Panels. (but more on that later).
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3451/3711577799_74537b3ecf.jpg

Now to Step 3 - Swinging open the LCD display will expose a screw right about the BARS and Reset buttons. It is one of the 7 screws holding the LCD/Buttons panel

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2618/3711578929_c770fee468.jpg

Here are two more screws holding that assembly.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2538/3712392684_9fea761629.jpg

Here is one more on top right side with LCD panel closed.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2527/3712392966_3dd5a9c8a2.jpg

Here are 3 more on the bottom of the CAM holding the LCD/Buttons
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2565/3711579809_0fb76a8e97.jpg

Here they are removed.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2467/3711580781_98ff305636.jpg

If you've done everything right, the display assembly will come off WITHOUT FORCE.
Be very slow and very careful taking it off, as there is a ribbon cable plugged into it, connecting it to the cam, do it on a surface that will not let it hang by its own weight.
Included is a larger picture to illustrate. Once again if you break your CAM I'm not responsible.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3040/3711581051_c4c3cf0d4a_b.jpg

This is what the LCD/Buttons assembly looks like laying on the side. The cable unplugs from This Assembly not the CAMERA. Do not pull on this cable.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2568/3711581443_86cfefa2c5.jpg

By pulling (with your fingernail or a plastic wedge, NO not with a screwdriver) on the little brown notches on this connector (from both sides one at a time) you can unlock the ribbon/flat cable holding the LCD/Buttons assembly onto the CAM, I used my fingernail. Do not just pull out the cable, if its not free to move, you're not doing it right.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2646/3712395396_7e1256cc4b.jpg

At this point. You have 3 modules removed from the Camera and your LCD/Buttons assembly is free to service.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2507/3711582261_9e14d452d6_b.jpg

The Part Number of this FPC reads VWJ1845-0 - I think can eliminate it as the culprit behind the MCR/Menu problem.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2587/3711582483_5b61bbcb5d.jpg

On the Panasonic Parts List I don't see this cable, however see (4) one matching closely - denoted with asterisk:

WJ10H2065L0 FLEXIBLE CABLE 18.43
VWJ1805 FLEXIBLE CABLE 18.27
VWJ1844 FLEXIBLE CABLE 25.00 **
VWJ24H2060L0 FLEXIBLE CABLE 18.34

The LCD/FStop/Buttons assembly has it's own unbuild instructions, the LCD itself can be removed rather easily and I will include it's un-build in further posts.

Included below are some other cable connectors between main parts of the camera with their model stamps.

Connector from inside the CAM to the TOP-OP CBA
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3608/3712396184_3d5ebd98ec.jpg

Two connectors from MAIN to P2 or Codec or TOP_OP
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3420/3712396350_536952c3a1.jpg

Cable A is a 12 pin cable from the BACK CBA (where the MCR button is)
Also there is a bent, white/blue ribbon cable.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2593/3711583183_9879a78b33.jpg

Here is another view to orient it
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2588/3711583421_329dfed28a.jpg

Here is another shot of the E41447-SH cable for the BACK CBA
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2647/3712397044_913b031b03.jpg

Here is also a shot of the 5 pin connector from the BACK CBA to the camera body, that you need to be careful with, in its placement.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2455/3712396928_b7378084d7.jpg


I need help Identifying the FPC cable responsible for the MCR/Menu button dysfunction.

Next steps in disassembly will include removing the EVF/View Finder, Handle Bar, And making available the TOP-OP CBA (MENU Button) and BACK CBA (MCR/Mode Button).

Also the Detailed disassembly of the LCD/Buttons and LCD Replacement Disassembly.

Any information you may have to contribute is appreciated.

Here is a link to all the HI-RES photos on Flikr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/sweetannie4u/sets/72157621318764768/

I've since re-assembled the camera into a complete state, this operation takes about 5 minutes to do total, and 15 minutes to test. (Your milage may vary.)
Tools needed - a good, small phillips screwdriver (no not from RadioShack) think Sears Hardware.

Photos are released under the Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-Share Alike 3.0 United States License

http://i.creativecommons.org/l/by-nc-sa/3.0/us/88x31.png ("http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/3.0/us/)

[DJDecay]

Disassembly of the HVX Continued, - Removing the HANDLE/MIC, Removing the Electronic View Finder, exposing the TOP-OP CBA and side connectors like USB/Firewire/Headphone Jack and Remote Plugs. Also a closer look at another ribbon cable screwed onto the camera that may be a possible cause of the MCR/Menu button problem.

All the Pictures here can be optained in High Megapixel Version from FLICKR and are Released under a creative commons Attribution-NonCommercial-Share Alike 3.0 US license.
Here is the Flickr Link to the Album http://www.flickr.com/photos/sweetannie4u/sets/72157621802824215/

After following the above Post, you can now remove the Handle/MIC assembly which is in the way of taking off the EVF/TOP-OP buttons cover. Both the Handle/Zoom/MIC and the EVF are connected to a 90 degree
upright board hidden behind the two plastic plates, one containing the on camera speaker and being just a plastic cover.

Start by removing 3 4mm screws holding the speaker (be careful, the speaker is connected to the same upright PCB by a two cable red/black plug (like a PC speaker would be.) This can also help you repair a speaker that has water or dirt on it.
Then you don't need to disassmble as above, just un-do the three screws.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2555/3782707071_7429c3a110.jpg

After the side panel is off, carefully disconnect the speaker jack, DO NOT pull on the cables themselves, do not use a flat screw driver to pry, pry with fingernails gently, i've seen alot of these crimp plugs give way or cables pull off the connector, you don't want that.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3447/3783518270_c5ca54a586_b.jpg

Remove speaker
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3592/3782708411_ffba10ae94.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3538/3783519070_ddc633a877.jpg

Remove its partner cover on the other side, by removing 3 identical 4mm philips screws.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2437/3782709797_d02e63f940.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3513/3782710589_13dca19989.jpg

Now for the HANDLE bar removal. - As stated, the HANDLE and the EVF are connected to the vertical PCB via ribbon cables, this PCB is not attached to the HANDLE nor the EVF, its screwed right into another PCB.
The bottom connector featured in the Picture below, is for the HANDLE/MIC and other, the TOP connector that is covered by the white/blue ribbon cable is for the EVF only.

Here is a bigger shot of those, don't discconect them just yet. (but its up to you as to when to do this, before or after the plugs are more accessible)

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3500/3782713623_16860bf549_b.jpg

The handle bar is held in place by 2 large 6MM screws, and by 4 4mm screws. Both are tough, have a high torque and possibly flexed if you carried you cam by its handle around for a bit. DO NOT STRIP THEM.

Photo of the two 6mm screws being removed
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2542/3783522036_97613faa8c.jpg

Photo of the four 4mm black screws being removed.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3571/3783522434_a3d0ee2e52_b.jpg

DO NOT REMOVE THE SINGE 4mm Black SCREW on the EVF in this photo, it does not hold any of those modules in PLACE. DONT DO IT.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2658/3782713211_5662a91f5b.jpg

If You've managed to remove the 4mm screws without stripping them, carefully disconnect the white/blue ribbon cable feeding into the 90deg PCB, at that point you should be able to place the handle separate of the camera.
These connectors go vertically UP, then open to the side as seen below.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2655/3783524182_b2e727720d_b.jpg[IMG]

In the Photo Above you can now see the orange flat cable that feeds video into the EVF/Electronic View Finder

* Removing the EVF/TOP-Button Module *

The EVF and the TOP buttons (Play/REC/Menu/VTR controls) are the same module, so they come off as one with only 1 ribbon cable connecting them to the camera.
The module is held in 3 places.

First Remove the plastic cover held by FOUR 4mm black screws that contains the SD CARD/Headphone/Firewire and USB connectors below it, right next to the record button.
The Fourth Screw is Hiding under the SD-CARD rubber cover.

Here it is removed. The four empty positions shown in the photo below are what hold that panel in place.
BY Viewing this PHOTO you can see that the WORST connector to break on this side would be the USB. The firewire and headphone jack connectors are located on a mini-sized PCB, while the USB connector
is located directly on the PCMCIA/P2 Card board, which costs a lot of money to replace. Much more than a tiny headphone jack/firewire back PCB. This may also possibly explain why P2 offloads are faster, as it seems
the initial design for that board had USB 2.0 only onboard, exporting the 1394 elsewhere. (No its not that the connector is not onboard, but it may have been factored in at a later point.)

[IMG]http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3450/3783524548_88583ea33c_b.jpg

By removing TWO 4mm screws, one black attached to the ground cable, the other silver you have now only one more spots to detach the EFV/TOP Button module.

Here is the other Silver 4mm screw holding the EVF/TOP
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2448/3782714859_d54bcb420c.jpg

After removing this, you should disconnect the second ribbon cable attached to the 90deg PCB carefuly, this will allow you to lift up the EVF/TOP-OP Buttons assembly away from the camera body.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3444/3782715993_e91d4150c4_b.jpg

The above picture is of the EVF/Top Button module and with the LCD panel attached back - Do not try this, I just did not have another shot, with the camera not powered off. Here you can clearly see the 90deg PCB
and the three legs that hold the EVF/TopMenu Buttons in place.

This Exposes the TOP-OP CBA, the second point of attachment of the 12Pin Red/White/Blue connector an the true plastic buttons vs. the top rubber covers that stay right on the module.

Also, towards the lens, after the buttons you will notice the connector for the other FLAT cable coming from the TOP-OP PCB, its held down by two silver screws to the right side of the aluminum camera body.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2437/3783528768_e6285f0351_b.jpg
Same cable covered.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2443/3783516838_4ccb6c7817_b.jpg
Part number on this cable reads VWJ1844-2

It looks like it is connected to the Component/Composite output PCB and the XLR jacks directly from TOP-OP.

More photos to come.

[pikilon]

Thanks a lot for this, I had my camera broken and I have to identify the pieces, your manual were priceless for that.

Thanks a lot and let see how much futher can you go on dissamselmbly

Could be possible to override the optic to attach canon/nikon 35mm lens?

have you the service (disassembly) manual of hvx200?

C U and thanks again

[Postmaster]

Scary! I wonder what those connectors at the bottom are for.

Uncompressed 4:4:4 output - YEAH!

Frank

[c3kings]

spectacular!!!

[benbixby]

Thank you!

[TimurCivan]

look at that engineering and how much is packed into a tiny space... and we wonder why it costs 6K......

[LoneWolf]

Wow, thanks for the pics. I have always been curious about what goes into these things, so this is a fascinating look into the guts of the beast.

[Postmaster]

Still wonder what those connectors at the bottom are for?

Maybe that´s where the Andomeda was connected.

Frank

[Missingmontana]

I had my HVX200 into the Panasonic Service Center about two years ago to fix a white shading problem - severe from the factory. Since then it has been sitting unused until a week ago. When I powered it up I found that the on-off switch would not work - had to remove the battery to power down - and could not access the MCR/VCR menu - switch would not toggle. I wrote Pany citing your post and others describling this problem. I asked for guidance as to which cable or connector is normally the probelm. Their only help was to "send it in." I'm a bit dissapointed with that attitude but they probably don't want to acknowledge that this is a very common problem with this model. Using your excellent post I reseated all of the ribbon cables and board connectors. Powered it up and it works! Thought this was significant info to add to the thread since the problem developed spontaneuosly over the two year storage. This is clearly a galvanic corrosion problem due to incompatible plating on some cable or connector pins.

I wanted to add my experience to this thread because it confirms a corrosion problem and I thought it would encourage others to go ahead and try the repair using you excellent guide.

Many thanks,

Mark

[pedroiban]

please make this thread a sticky.
its very useful

[Andrew McCarrick]

The steps were taken from the Service Manual for the HVX200P/202EN etc... The real service centre CD-ROM has a power-point like presentation of what steps to take to un-build the HVX camera. SM stands for Service Manual.



Where do you get the service manual from? What about the CD-ROM?

[DJDecay]

Where do you get the service manual from? What about the CD-ROM?

Type this into google without the quotes: "AG-HVX200 site:scribd.com" I don't want to direct link it and violate any guidelines.

[milleto]

hello...

I'm sorry for bringing back this old thread but I'm looking for some help.

My HVX200A..if I turn it on on P2 mode...I get the slot 1&2 sign in the LCD flashing non stop. The light on the P2 slots does't light up...with or without a card in, I can't access Menu, I can't turn of camera...only by unpluging or resetting....

I opened camera up..following this instruccion...reset all flat connection but still same problem.

I'm wondering if anyone here knows exactly which is the connection that has to do with the P2 loader so I can focus on it and try to fix it.

camera only has 140 hrs of use, taking good care of it...i have a shoot in 2 days, I'm in South America...and really really sucks that this is happening....

please help.

Thanks

[dailyrushes]

Hey, Mr. DjDecay,

I have an HVX 200 which zooms jerkily, so I have to do all my zooming by hand. I went by the local Panny service center in L.A. and they were very friendly and conversational, but said, "Probably the belts. Bring it in". Having no money to repair that now, I am wondering if it's an easy fix or not to just dig into it. I have extensive electronics experience, so I probably wouldn't have much problem if I had a source of detailed directions.

Can you tell me from your manual if that's an easy fix or not?

Thanks,

Robert Aldrich
Los Angeles

[RobS]

DJDecay - Just went through your photo disassembly for the HVX200...breathtakingly comprehensive. Many, MANY thanks.

Did you ever determine which cable tended to go bad on that camera?

[milleto]

this thread seems to be dead...what a shame......

i'm still stuck with no P2...no HD...

arrrrrrrrrrr

[DJDecay]

DJDecay - Just went through your photo disassembly for the HVX200...breathtakingly comprehensive. Many, MANY thanks.

Did you ever determine which cable tended to go bad on that camera?

I asked someone else about it, what part numbers they've ordered, I've simply eraser cleaned my ribbon cables, I pin-checked all of em. I had another thread with part-ID numbers. Anyone who swapped out the two cables never replied with what part number they ordered.

[DJDecay]

Hey, Mr. DjDecay,

I have an HVX 200 which zooms jerkily, so I have to do all my zooming by hand. I went by the local Panny service center in L.A. and they were very friendly and conversational, but said, "Probably the belts. Bring it in". Having no money to repair that now, I am wondering if it's an easy fix or not to just dig into it. I have extensive electronics experience, so I probably wouldn't have much problem if I had a source of detailed directions.

Can you tell me from your manual if that's an easy fix or not?

Thanks,

Robert Aldrich
Los Angeles

They're not lying, and the mechanical portion of the camera/lens is indeed complex,
much more complex then a couple of PCB's put together via ribbon cables. It also requires re-calibration. Non of my exploration got to the lens assembly. If your problem was electronic, it would be a different thing, as the two zoom lever controllers can short out and symptoms are typically camera that motor-zooms without stop.

[milleto]

Hi DJDecay.

Glad you came back to this and thanks for your answers.

I'm still on my quest to fixing my problem. I came across this link were they seem to have solved it (panasonic service) and they say the problem...."Turned out the camera needed the P2 drive replaced". also someone called it..."p2 card reader failed and was replaced".

here is the link: http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/archive/index.php/t-106391.html

That seems right since i have same problem they had...no P2 or SD card loading. Now, feel like I'm getting closer, still I had a problem trying to identify what is the P2 drive or P2 reader inside the camera. Belive me, if i could I would have taking it to panasonic service but I'm in South america country with no pana service...so. I got myself the service manual and have disamble the camara 3 times reseat it ribbons but problem still there.

Now, thinking ordering this part...if I knew what it is or where it is in my camara will really help...
I had the error Micon message right before this happened .

Any ways...hope this also helps other people going thru the same issue.

Please if you know and can help do so.

Thanks.