View Full Version : how to get the best latitude?

04-21-2009, 12:23 AM
Any suggestions on settings to get the best latitude out of this camera. Mostly having some trouble with high lights and such.

04-21-2009, 08:08 AM
cinelike D gamma, no gain, a master ped no lower than about -4, and use the zebras at 100% or 105% to avoid overexposing.

05-21-2009, 10:38 AM
what about shooting 1080_60i or 720_60p so that you can turn on DRS?

i'm not shooting interlaced and wish this feature was available at 24p.

05-21-2009, 01:01 PM
cinelike D gamma, no gain, a master ped no lower than about -4, and use the zebras at 100% or 105% to avoid overexposing.
Thanks Barry!

Can't wait for the HMC150 book!!!! :P

05-21-2009, 07:03 PM
DRS can give you a lot more latitude, at the expense of a little to a LOT more noise. DRS 1 can add up to 6dB, DRS 2 adds more, and DSR 3 can add up to 18dB of noise! So if you like noise, use DRS. If you need the range but don't mind the noise, use DRS. If you don't like noise, DON'T use DRS.

05-22-2009, 08:23 AM
got it. drs = noise.

does it help at all to turn up vcoring to reduce noise?

so, barry, with your suggested method, you're basically exposing for the highlights, but reducing ped to brighten the shadows. seems there is no way to do the opposite; expose for the shadows and somehow turn down the highlights....i guess that is more like what DRS is trying to do.

seems that the latter might result in a less noisy image as you're not artificially brightening anything, simply toning down areas that have too much light.

from a technical standpoint, is there any reason why this isn't done this way? or, why does your method actually result in less noise?....is it simply because you're not pushing it very extremely?

thanks for your insight, i'm getting more and more interested in the technical side of shooting now that i've got so much more manual control over the image. =) i like to understand the how/why of my camera.

05-22-2009, 02:03 PM
The noise from the DRS comes from gain. Coring will always help to smooth over or mask noise, but gain = grain.

The inverse of the pedestal is the knee, so you could expose for the shadows and adjust the knee to try to retain highlight detail. Problem with that approach is that typically video cameras have very little overexposure latitude; you typically have on a DVX100 something like maybe six stops available under the proper exposure, and maybe 1.5 stops over. So it's a lot more important to get the highlights right than it is to try to rescue the shadows, because you have so much more room in the shadows. Of course, the shadows is where the noise lives, too.

Stretching the shadows (by bringing up the master pedestal) usually just stretches out the noise in the shadows; the only way to bring the shadows up noiselessly would be to bring up their light level.