PDA

View Full Version : EX1 Hum Bar


RWoodcock
01-31-2009, 11:55 PM
I bought my Ex1 back just before the deadline last March for the free SXS card. It has been used very little with just over 29 hours. It hads been sitting in a Pelican case since last fall. I checked it today and discovered that over the months without a battery connected, the settings returned to default. It was set for 720 and now is back at 1080. Also it needed to balance so I pointed it at a fluorescent light source but before I pushed the button I saw a pair of hum bars. Moving from the bottom to the top slowly I could see a maximum of three on the screen at one time but most of the time two. Has anyone seen this? If I balance then they fade but now that I have seen them I can still see them in a balanced picture. If I re-balance on tungsten then the fluorescent bars come back and are very visible.

Has anybody seen this?? :dankk2:

Bob Woodcock

RWoodcock
02-01-2009, 01:45 PM
So I have found that if you shoot a fluorescent lamp then I see this hum bar moving through the picture. So don't shoot fluorescent lamps then! With all the new fluorescent lighting kits and sun guns out there it is impossible to keep away from this light source. So is it a fault or a effect?

So if anyone out there wants to check this out as well please shoot something with close fluorescent lighting and let me know. I'm taking it in tomorrow with the sample footage to the dealer but it always helps if others are seeing this or not. Hopefully nobody sees the effect and then I can get it repaired.

Bob :dankk2:

morgan_moore
02-01-2009, 02:16 PM
Im no expert but I beleive you can sort it through changing shutter speed and or frame rate

RWoodcock
02-01-2009, 06:35 PM
This is with shutter switch on the front of the camera off at 720/60P. I just did a full reset and it is gone. If I turn the shutter back on it returns. This begs the question why there is a switch on the front of the camera if you can toggle the shutter on and off with the menu. I thought that the shutter was off because the switch is off but I need to keep an eye on the LCD to check.

So I guess it is the shutter which is a relief. I have heard that the Sony service is less than ideal and would take a month or more.

Bob

ZtilongZ
02-16-2009, 02:33 PM
This problem is caused by the CMOS-chips in the EX-camera, due to the rolling shutter.
http://dvxuser.com/jason/CMOS-CCD/

Fohdeesha
02-18-2009, 12:05 AM
Turn flicker reduction off.

MitchLewis
02-18-2009, 06:26 AM
Turn zebra's off (button on the viewfinder)

Barry_Green
02-18-2009, 09:59 AM
It's your shutter speed, combined with the CMOS rolling shutter. Match your shutter speed to the Hz of your country's power supply, so in the USA force your shutter to 1/60th (or 1/40th even) and in Europe or other 50Hz territories, set your shutter to 1/50th.

ZtilongZ
02-19-2009, 06:50 AM
It's your shutter speed, combined with the CMOS rolling shutter. Match your shutter speed to the Hz of your country's power supply, so in the USA force your shutter to 1/60th (or 1/40th even) and in Europe or other 50Hz territories, set your shutter to 1/50th.

And that would do the trick or just help a little?
The rolling shutter issue is the only thing that keeps me from running to the store and buy the EX and instead consider the HPX171.

Visited Sony Norway (Europe) yesterday ahd sat under fluorecent lighting in the office, and couldn't get it completely to dissapear, though I only tried to turn off the shutter, don't think I tried to use 1/50.

Damn those fluorescent lights...

Barry_Green
02-19-2009, 07:04 AM
Shutter Off should have made it disappear. Normally you use the line frequency of the AC as your guide; in a 50Hz country 1/50 or 1/25 should make it disappear. Wait, were you shooting 25p or 50i? If so, shutter off should make it go away. But if you were shooting 24p or 30p or 60i, then shutter off would not make it go away; you'd instead have to manually choose 1/50 or (for 60i) 1/100.

You cannot use the angled shutter of 180 degrees when trying to shoot 24fps and expect it to eliminate the hum bar. That delivers a true shutter speed of 1/48, which won't sync with a 60hz fluorescent light (or, for that matter, a 50hz fluo).