Nikon mount zoom lenses?

[dvxusr]

Can anyone recommend some models? I wanted to try a zoom rather than buying several primes, seen lens in the 28-85, 35-105, 35-135, and 35-200 ranges but what is the preferred F-stop range for the Let Extreme? (and which lenses wouldnt work)

I noticed some are marked as MACRO, with the adapter would macro distances work without issues?

Also do all the zooms with this mount work in a push/pull manner or is there a lens where the zoom ring rotates to zoom?

[dvxusr]

almost forgot, ones that would also work with my D80 would be a plus, I assume theres no problem using older manual lenses on that camera

[Ryan Patrick O'Hara]

Can anyone recommend some models? I wanted to try a zoom rather than buying several primes, seen lens in the 28-85, 35-105, 35-135, and 35-200 ranges but what is the preferred F-stop range for the Let Extreme? (and which lenses wouldnt work)

Zooms are a bit slower when measuring open aperture. The always preferred lens is the faster one, except if it has known inferiority in quality. You can always stop down, which is generally encouraged for maximum sharpness.
Faster zooms tend to be in the f/2.8 arena and some will remain at 2.8 over the focal length spectrum.


I noticed some are marked as MACRO, with the adapter would macro distances work without issues?

Oh and Macro/micro lenses will work with adapters. I use mine all the time. As long as your backfocus and flange focus are correct the macro will work. Meaning as long as the nikon mount is properly aligned, the macro lens will do it's job (the same goes for all nikons you use).


Also do all the zooms with this mount work in a push/pull manner or is there a lens where the zoom ring rotates to zoom?

Yes, there are Nikon zooms which will be described as "two touch". These are zoom lenses which do not have that push pull crap ring. It will have a separate ring for both zoom and focus. I highly recommend that vs the push pull.



...and Older nikons should work with your D80 but will have to be manually operated (unless they are AF). Also, I'm not sure about the D80, but many cameras do not like the Non-AI lenses. Those were lenses made probably earlier then 1977 and which have not been "AI'd" (lenses which are non-AI can be modified and many were). Other then that, they should work.

[myCharlie]

Very informative, Ryan.


Oh and Macro/micro lenses will work with adapters. I use mine all the time. As long as your backfocus and flange focus are correct the macro will work. Meaning as long as the nikon mount is properly aligned, the macro lens will do it's job (the same goes for all nikons you use).

I've read people kept mentioning about the back focus. How do I do back focus and what type of zoom lens am I able to do back focus? I'm looking at a Nikon 80-400mm f/4.5-5.6D ED VR AF Zoom-Nikkor Lens. Will this allow me to do a back focus? The reason I asked is because if I use the follow focus on this lens, it probably won't work because the focus ring moves up and down the lens barrel quite a bit. Any work around for this issue?

[dvxusr]

Good stuff. So if i got this right the lower the aperture numbers the better, just like with prime lenses. The zooms in my price range seem to all be F3.5-4.5. Those should be fine then?
As for the one touch vs 2 touch lenses, is the main issue that it doesnt work with a FF unless you pull the FF away and then change zoom? Then again seems like it would be an issue also with a two touch lens unless the focus ring was on the part of the lens that doesnt extend (sorry dont have a zoom lens currently and have yet to try a FF). Or is it an issue even without FF just in the fact that you change focus trying to just zoom and vice versa?

Is AIS the same as AI most of these lenses are labeled AIS
Thanks

[dvxusr]

Great, did it again, forgot something that is. I know there was mention of change in the focal length of still lenses used with the hvx due to its sensor size, what would the actual focal lengths for these lenses be then?
28-85
35-105
35-200

Gracias

[Ryan Patrick O'Hara]

All lenses can back focus properly. Photography lenses are made to be an exact distance from the film plane. Meaning all Nikon F mount lenses lock into the mount the same way. This is why they are interchangeable. When using an adapter the distance to the film plane should be the distance to the ground glass. This ensures that when the lens is at close focus and infinity focus, they actually achieve the exact focus measurement.

As long as your flange focus (Lens to gg) is set properly, and your back focus (gg to camera) is set properly then ANY nikon f-mount lens will work just fine. Some lenses will be better quality then others but they will all work.

If you need more info, I'll continue, but that was my short answer.


PS: Faster lenses are better when using low light, and even better because most lenses are most sharp closed a couple of stops down. So a 2.8 lens open should technically not be as sharp as a 1.4 lens closed down two stops to a 2.8. But that is if the lens is of the same quality. If the 1.4 lens is a crappy one, and the 2.8 is a brand new top of the line lens, the 2.8 could be more sharp then the 1.4 closed down.

It's all in research. I'm just saying faster is better but definitely not always. Only if the lens quality is the same or comparable.

[Huy Vu]

Great, did it again, forgot something that is. I know there was mention of change in the focal length of still lenses used with the hvx due to its sensor size, what would the actual focal lengths for these lenses be then?
28-85
35-105
35-200

Gracias

With a 35mm adapter there is no crop factor since you're no longer using the camera's sensor to produce DOF. It should theoretically give the exact FOV on as the focal length but in reality it might be somewhat less if you have to zoom in closer to the GG to avoid vignetting.

[dvxusr]

ok thanks, I just wanted to make sure the wide angle end wont be reduced too much and I'll still get close to 28.
as for the push/pull ring vs two touch any reasons besides that noted?
thanks

[rawfa]

Dvxusr, I shot a lot with a sigma (for nikon) 24-70mm constant f2.8. I found it to be a great very practical lens having in mind what it costs.

[Charles Lowthian]

I just wanted to make sure the wide angle end wont be reduced too much and I'll still get close to 28.

that really depends on what camera and what adapter you use. it seems with a lot of the setups, when zooming in, the gg/focussing screen goes quite off-centre. for wider lenses you can predict the problem, especially on fisheye/distored wide angles as you'll have the edge of the lens on the left side BUT the right side will not be the right edge of the lens. ie:

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x81/charleslowthian/adaptercropping.jpg

if this causes undesired effects, one method of dealing with the alignment issue i've found is, if your output is standard definition dvd (eg) - do not crop the image, instead zoom in enough to have the whole width of the gg/focussing screen and then in post crop the area you desire (ie: to have balanced image).



as for the push/pull ring vs two touch any reasons besides that noted?
thanks

two touch will be more expensive (i think).
in relation to nikon zooms, the 28-70 and 70-200 f2.8's are delightful :) not cheap though, but if you do still photography even more of a reason to distract your conscience stopping you :thumbsup:

[dvxusr]

wasnt aware of the off-center issue but that graphic really helped, true about the multiple uses for the lenses (planning ahead is good), i already have one of those VR lenses on the D80 but its nowhere near 200mm, ill see if i can locate a 70-200 f2.8 and see how much it is

[Kholi]

I just used a 70-200 F2.8 today. To be exact, 70-200 F2.8 ED IF VR lens and the damned thing is incredible when paired with the HVX200 and LetusExtreme. I have footage, but it was just a really quick "run out of the office" and shoot some random crap.

I plan on using it this Friday for a shoot. You have to remember that VR lenses are full auto, and there's no iris ring to manually control it. You'll have to use the paper or q-tip trick.

Did I mention how incredible the lens is? From Boekh to Color to Contrast to Sharpness.

[Tim Naylor]

PS: Faster lenses are better when using low light, and even better because most lenses are most sharp closed a couple of stops down. So a 2.8 lens open should technically not be as sharp as a 1.4 lens closed down two stops to a 2.8. But that is if the lens is of the same quality. If the 1.4 lens is a crappy one, and the 2.8 is a brand new top of the line lens, the 2.8 could be more sharp then the 1.4 closed down.

It's all in research. I'm just saying faster is better but definitely not always. Only if the lens quality is the same or comparable.


The Nikon 2.8 Zooms (70-200 and 17-35) are actually sharper wide open than my 85 1.4 or my 35 1.4 set at a 2.8 (or any stop for that matter). That's how damn good they are.

[Kholi]

Gotta agree with Tim. I was blown away by the sharpness that the 70-200 VFR exhibited with the HVX200. I wouldn't recommend getting the 70-200 VFR, though, due to the lack of aperture control. Invest in the older (yet just as sharp) 80-200 ED with the manual Iris.

I'm definitely thinking about dropping the cash on those two lenses asap just based off of the very short messin' with the 70-200. Won't ever need another prime again.

[wartez]

I just used a 70-200 F2.8 today. To be exact, 70-200 F2.8 ED IF VR lens and the damned thing is incredible when paired with the HVX200 and LetusExtreme. I have footage, but it was just a really quick "run out of the office" and shoot some random crap.

I plan on using it this Friday for a shoot. You have to remember that VR lenses are full auto, and there's no iris ring to manually control it. You'll have to use the paper or q-tip trick.

Did I mention how incredible the lens is? From Boekh to Color to Contrast to Sharpness.

May I ask what the paper or q-tip trick process is all about?

thanks

[Charles Lowthian]

May I ask what the paper or q-tip trick process is all about?

thanks

If i'm not mistaken, I think it is the answer to a topic I asked a few weeks ago
http://dvxuser.com/V6/showthread.php?t=120598
I have yet to try this as my rails arrived only two days ago and didn't want to attach the weight before support was there, so am now eager to try it out.

[Tim Naylor]

Gotta agree with Tim. I was blown away by the sharpness that the 70-200 VFR exhibited with the HVX200. I wouldn't recommend getting the 70-200 VFR, though, due to the lack of aperture control. Invest in the older (yet just as sharp) 80-200 ED with the manual Iris.

I'm definitely thinking about dropping the cash on those two lenses asap just based off of the very short messin' with the 70-200. Won't ever need another prime again.

They kind of blow for pulling focus. Short draw and play in the focus ring. For real precise focus cues you may want to stick with your primes.